All,
The first time I saw any modification was on the WORC's, Husaberg Team was using. They had removed the whole flange on the right and left radiator shrouds so that you could see through to the other side, and the air filter.
I never really felt the need to modify the air box on my bike. However, after a few stream crossings my bike wouldn't run very well for a few minutes, never could figure out why until FR 4. It finally occurred to me what was happening. I have my mid pipe wrapped so when I would go through a water crossing, the wrap would get soaked and while the water was boiling off, it would create a lot of steam, more steam than if the pipe was not wrapped. Upon closer inspection, it also became apparent that most of the induction air to the motor comes through a small opening where the fuel line goes through. Also, there was a post a while back about how high the IAT (intake air temperature) was showing on a dyno run.
So...................... I did this.
Which resulted in this.
You can see how the air flowed into the air box and onto the air filter during my last race, So Cal National Hare and Hound, 94 miles of uninterrupted ecstasy, a good portion of which was in blinding dust.
You can can also see where the air flows into the air box from where the fuel line goes through. Where as before it was obvious that most of the air was coming from the area where the fuel line goes through the tank and down to the injector.
Results. The bike definitely breathed better at higher revs, and seemed to rev a bit more freely. The intake air has to be a lot cooler with this modification.
I did not want to remove the whole flange like the WORC's team did, as I wanted to have protection for the air filter itself. And, I did not want the air box to get filled with dirt if I was sideways on a hill and some guy roosted me.
Dale
The first time I saw any modification was on the WORC's, Husaberg Team was using. They had removed the whole flange on the right and left radiator shrouds so that you could see through to the other side, and the air filter.
I never really felt the need to modify the air box on my bike. However, after a few stream crossings my bike wouldn't run very well for a few minutes, never could figure out why until FR 4. It finally occurred to me what was happening. I have my mid pipe wrapped so when I would go through a water crossing, the wrap would get soaked and while the water was boiling off, it would create a lot of steam, more steam than if the pipe was not wrapped. Upon closer inspection, it also became apparent that most of the induction air to the motor comes through a small opening where the fuel line goes through. Also, there was a post a while back about how high the IAT (intake air temperature) was showing on a dyno run.
So...................... I did this.
Which resulted in this.
You can see how the air flowed into the air box and onto the air filter during my last race, So Cal National Hare and Hound, 94 miles of uninterrupted ecstasy, a good portion of which was in blinding dust.
You can can also see where the air flows into the air box from where the fuel line goes through. Where as before it was obvious that most of the air was coming from the area where the fuel line goes through the tank and down to the injector.
Results. The bike definitely breathed better at higher revs, and seemed to rev a bit more freely. The intake air has to be a lot cooler with this modification.
I did not want to remove the whole flange like the WORC's team did, as I wanted to have protection for the air filter itself. And, I did not want the air box to get filled with dirt if I was sideways on a hill and some guy roosted me.
Dale
