matikrimerman said:
Thank you for the detailed answer Berger.
My manual says that the main jet is 178, main air jet is 200 and idling jet is 38(I guess that's the pilot screw?) . I did buy a 160 main and 45 pilot today at the local KTM dealer to have just in case.
What is F4 if you don't mind me asking?
Thanks again for trying and make all of this clear for me!
Throwing in my two cents worth here..............
First of all, you really need to know what you currently have in your carb. The 2008 models that came to the US were non green sticker/EPA legal and came with richer jetting if I am not mistaken. The picture of your owners manual shows European spec's, EU/AUS-UK, I need to see the next row over to the right that shows the US settings.
In the picture that you have shown, the numbers shown like this (40) are the closed course settings. That being said, I'm betting that the US row to the right show's that your bike came with a 40 pilot, and a OBDVR needle. So, we/you need to get into that carb and find out what you have in there.
Working on the 2008 carb is, as Taffy would say, "easy peasy lemon squeezey". The easiest way to get to the jets in your carb is to remove the seat and tank, and the electric starter. Just lay the starter with a rag wrapped around it on the right foot peg. Loosen the intake boot clamps on both sides of the carb so you can lay it over so you can remove the float bowl nut, and the top cover plate so you can get at the needle. Once you get used to doing this, you can do it in less than 5 minutes, and jetting changes can be made on the trail in less than 15 mins max, start to finish. I spent a week testing in the High Sierra's and was making needle position changes in less than 10 minutes on the trail. If I can do it anyone can!
Second, purchase one of these tools from Motion Pro, they make changing the pilot and main jets a snap.
http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0181/
You also need to get a fuel mixture adjustment know like this one from the hard parts catalog, as this will make tuning the pilot circuit possible. This is the page, but, you may have to scroll down some to see it. Now, lot's of people make these adjusters, but DO NOT BUY ONE THAT HAS AN ALUMINUM TIP!!!!! It must be brass, or as in the case of the Hard Parts one, a stainless one. The Husaberg one looks nice as it has another O ring to help seal off the passage way.
http://www.husaberg.com/PowerParts.250. ... id=+2375H3
http://www.jdjetting.com/xcart/product. ... t=4&page=1
Some of the adjusters have numbers on them so you can see/tell how many turns out you are. Whatever one you get, just get one, and one that has a brass or chrome tip. You will love it.
Third. If memory serves, the 2008 bikes came with an Akrapovic muffler with no spark arrestor. If that is the case with your bike, you will need to secure the spark arrestor insert. Any of the shops can get you one, if you have trouble with this call Bozzarth off road
http://www.offroadboss.com/welcome.htm, or Fritz Kadlec at
http://gunnisonmotorsports.com/
I also highly recommend the Factory Pro High Dispersal emulsion tube. This is something you will put in and leave in all the time. It makes a huge difference in throttle response.
http://www.factorypro.com/ Look on the left side of the page for "Buy carb jets, needle jets, emulsion tubes"
I have not tried Taffy's needle, I'm sure it is a winner. The main reason is that I now ride an FI bike. I have tried the JD jet kit-good power, pretty clean, a bit rich, BUT, it works, and the directions are pretty clear about how to set up your jetting for different altitudes and temps.
http://www.jdjetting.com/xcart/product. ... 1&featured
Either way, where ever you ride, your bike can benefit from a jetting change compared with the stock settings as I believe it is too rich. Once you spend some time tuning and understand the carb, it will be very easy for you to have your bike running it's best in many conditions.
Dale