2008 FE450 - rejetting for a Colorado trip

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Joined
Jan 26, 2009
Messages
119
Location
Dallas, TX
Hi Guys

It might be a stupid questions but is there any thing that I need to BUY in order to get my bike ready for Colorado as far as re-jetting goes) (different Jet etc..)? I live in Texas and the bike runs great. I'm going on a week long ride in the Colorado area.

Everything is stock. i didn't have the time to read all the posts (working my A_S off trying to get every thing done before I disappear for a week) but I need to know if there's anything I need to order (to allow enough time for shipping)

Thank in advance!

Mati
 
Hi Berger

I'm not sure honestly.. I assume it is all stock since I bought it from the dealer with only 7 hours on it (was a demo bike). are you referring to the needle size?
 
I live at about 1000' elevation and have ridden my '96 FE501 and my '05 FE550 up to 9000' without any jetting changes. You may need to adjust the fuel screw a bit and possibly lower the needle a notch (if you are real picky) but other than that the bike should run acceptably.
 
I rode my 2008 in Colorado the last two years and I used the JD Jetting kit recommendations. Bike ran great, got close to a 100 miles to the tank and had no problems. Now I have a 2010 with fuel injection waiting for a fuel pump. Leave for Colorado in less than a month.
HusaRod
 
I think I went down 5 on the main and 2 on the pilot. Then dropped the needle 2. I was running a Lineaweaver jet kit though.
I would think this would be a good starting point.
You can try and pm Kadlec. He may have some good input.
 
berger said:
I think I went down 5 on the main and 2 on the pilot. Then dropped the needle 2. I was running a Lineaweaver jet kit though.
I would think this would be a good starting point.
You can try and pm Kadlec. He may have some good input.

Pardon my stupid questions, but what does "went down 5..." means? that you got a different size needle or that you moved the existing one 5 locations down?

and just to make sure I got it right:
"the main" = Main air jet (MJ)?
"pilot" = pilot screw (PS) ?

It was suggested to me to change to a #160 main and a #45 pilot (by a guy with a KTM, not a husaberg). does it make sens? I'm not too excited about changing the entire setup (i.e getting a complete set) so I really want to try and do the less amount of changes ("chances to mass things up") as possible.
 
matikrimerman said:
berger said:
I think I went down 5 on the main and 2 on the pilot. Then dropped the needle 2. I was running a Lineaweaver jet kit though.
I would think this would be a good starting point.
You can try and pm Kadlec. He may have some good input.

Pardon my stupid questions, but what does "went down 5..." means? that you got a different size needle or that you moved the existing one 5 locations down?

and just to make sure I got it right:
"the main" = Main air jet (MJ)?
"pilot" = pilot screw (PS) ?

It was suggested to me to change to a #160 main and a #45 pilot (by a guy with a KTM, not a husaberg). does it make sens? I'm not too excited about changing the entire setup (i.e getting a complete set) so I really want to try and do the less amount of changes ("chances to mass things up") as possible.

Main jet say you are running a 165, drop to 160. Pilot if you are running a 45, drop to a 43. Needle leave the same, just drop the needle 2 positions. Normally I would drop 10 on the main and 5 on the pilot for openers, but I run a different needle than stock, so I split the difference in your case. What ever the case, I'm sure you will need more than a needle adjustment. F4 should probably cover from 8000' to just under 13,000' elevation.
Jets are about $5 a piece, not a large investment. Any bike shop should have a selection of them.
 
Thank you for the detailed answer Berger.

My manual says that the main jet is 178, main air jet is 200 and idling jet is 38(I guess that's the pilot screw?) . I did buy a 160 main and 45 pilot today at the local KTM dealer to have just in case.

2008_FE450_carburetor_setting.jpg


What is F4 if you don't mind me asking?


Thanks again for trying and make all of this clear for me!
 
F4
viewtopic.php?f=35&t=12858

You do not want to go up on the pilot jet. The point is when going up in altitude you want to go down in jet sizes. I would leave it the same before went up with it. You are leaning the mixture out for higher altitude. You have have less air available so you want to cut the fuel back(smaller jets) to match the available air.
Maybe your best bet would be to buy a JD jet kit. They come with a good set of instruction and will tell you what you need.
http://www.jdjetting.com/xcart/product. ... 1&featured
 
berger said:
F4
http://www.husaberg.org/forum/viewtopic ... 35&t=12858

You do not want to go up on the pilot jet. The point is when going up in altitude you want to go down in jet sizes. I would leave it the same before went up with it. You are leaning the mixture out for higher altitude. You have have less air available so you want to cut the fuel back(smaller jets) to match the available air.
Maybe your best bet would be to buy a JD jet kit. They come with a good set of instruction and will tell you what you need.
http://www.jdjetting.com/xcart/product. ... 1&featured

come on Ken! be honest and show him the Dyno charts from Lineaweaver between his and a a JD kit.

the man needs my kit. sorry but this is just pure american favouritism (with the 'U'!) you are just so unfair!!!! :lol:

http://www.taffmeisters.co.uk/the-needle.html

hus - the - daddy!

Taffy
 
Taffy said:
berger said:
F4
viewtopic.php?f=35&t=12858

You do not want to go up on the pilot jet. The point is when going up in altitude you want to go down in jet sizes. I would leave it the same before went up with it. You are leaning the mixture out for higher altitude. You have have less air available so you want to cut the fuel back(smaller jets) to match the available air.
Maybe your best bet would be to buy a JD jet kit. They come with a good set of instruction and will tell you what you need.
http://www.jdjetting.com/xcart/product. ... 1&featured

come on Ken! be honest and show him the Dyno charts from Lineaweaver between his and a a JD kit.

the man needs my kit. sorry but this is just pure american favouritism (with the 'U'!) you are just so unfair!!!! :lol:

http://www.taffmeisters.co.uk/the-needle.html

Sorry taff You know I usually recommend your jet kit. I just figured the JD kit would be a little more user friendly in this instance :wink:

hus - the - daddy!

Taffy
 
matikrimerman said:
Thank you for the detailed answer Berger.

My manual says that the main jet is 178, main air jet is 200 and idling jet is 38(I guess that's the pilot screw?) . I did buy a 160 main and 45 pilot today at the local KTM dealer to have just in case.

2008_FE450_carburetor_setting.jpg


What is F4 if you don't mind me asking?


Thanks again for trying and make all of this clear for me!

Throwing in my two cents worth here..............

First of all, you really need to know what you currently have in your carb. The 2008 models that came to the US were non green sticker/EPA legal and came with richer jetting if I am not mistaken. The picture of your owners manual shows European spec's, EU/AUS-UK, I need to see the next row over to the right that shows the US settings.

In the picture that you have shown, the numbers shown like this (40) are the closed course settings. That being said, I'm betting that the US row to the right show's that your bike came with a 40 pilot, and a OBDVR needle. So, we/you need to get into that carb and find out what you have in there.

Working on the 2008 carb is, as Taffy would say, "easy peasy lemon squeezey". The easiest way to get to the jets in your carb is to remove the seat and tank, and the electric starter. Just lay the starter with a rag wrapped around it on the right foot peg. Loosen the intake boot clamps on both sides of the carb so you can lay it over so you can remove the float bowl nut, and the top cover plate so you can get at the needle. Once you get used to doing this, you can do it in less than 5 minutes, and jetting changes can be made on the trail in less than 15 mins max, start to finish. I spent a week testing in the High Sierra's and was making needle position changes in less than 10 minutes on the trail. If I can do it anyone can!

Second, purchase one of these tools from Motion Pro, they make changing the pilot and main jets a snap.
http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0181/

You also need to get a fuel mixture adjustment know like this one from the hard parts catalog, as this will make tuning the pilot circuit possible. This is the page, but, you may have to scroll down some to see it. Now, lot's of people make these adjusters, but DO NOT BUY ONE THAT HAS AN ALUMINUM TIP!!!!! It must be brass, or as in the case of the Hard Parts one, a stainless one. The Husaberg one looks nice as it has another O ring to help seal off the passage way.
http://www.husaberg.com/PowerParts.250. ... id=+2375H3

http://www.jdjetting.com/xcart/product. ... t=4&page=1

Some of the adjusters have numbers on them so you can see/tell how many turns out you are. Whatever one you get, just get one, and one that has a brass or chrome tip. You will love it.

Third. If memory serves, the 2008 bikes came with an Akrapovic muffler with no spark arrestor. If that is the case with your bike, you will need to secure the spark arrestor insert. Any of the shops can get you one, if you have trouble with this call Bozzarth off road http://www.offroadboss.com/welcome.htm, or Fritz Kadlec at http://gunnisonmotorsports.com/

I also highly recommend the Factory Pro High Dispersal emulsion tube. This is something you will put in and leave in all the time. It makes a huge difference in throttle response.
http://www.factorypro.com/ Look on the left side of the page for "Buy carb jets, needle jets, emulsion tubes"

I have not tried Taffy's needle, I'm sure it is a winner. The main reason is that I now ride an FI bike. I have tried the JD jet kit-good power, pretty clean, a bit rich, BUT, it works, and the directions are pretty clear about how to set up your jetting for different altitudes and temps.
http://www.jdjetting.com/xcart/product. ... 1&featured

Either way, where ever you ride, your bike can benefit from a jetting change compared with the stock settings as I believe it is too rich. Once you spend some time tuning and understand the carb, it will be very easy for you to have your bike running it's best in many conditions.


Dale
 
Dale

First of all let me thank you for your thorough answer. every time I show this forum to my wife she is amazed how helpful can people you've never met can be!

As far as the USA settings, I didn't looked my self (kinda scared to mess it up before the big trip) but according to the book the pilot is a 38 and a OBDVt needle. I don't know why the post shows only 3/4 of the image, if you'll e kind enough to right click on the image and choose "open image in new tab" you'll see the USA column as well.

I'm really trying to do the bare minimum I can to make this trip enjoyable. I don't ride too often (28 hours in 2.5 years...) and I'm not sure I'll have the chance to open up the carburetor in order to put a jetting kit.

If I can get away with only changing the pilot and the main I'll be more then happy, the question is whether I'm been realistic and this is achievable or I have no other route but to buy a jetting kit?

I was trying to use the Altitude Jetting Chart by Gokai134, but I'm unsure about what is the "Jet grading"...

The second question is , assuming the pilot is indeed a 38, what would you suggest? a 35 ?

my last question for now is what does securing the spark arrestor insert does? and why do I need it in Colorado but not in Texas?

Thanks again to al of you that took the time to try and help me out!
 
I can answer a few questions.
If you try to run the stock jetting and adjustments the bike is going to run bad. The experience will not be pleasurable. The fact that between your body and your bike not running at optimal, it will be a frustrating struggle.
Again, I recommended the JD jet kit only for it's ease of use and instructions.
Spark arrestor. You need a spark arrestor on ANY public lands, state,blm and national forests. The Akrapovic exhaust that came on the 08's is designed for closed course use only. The spark arrestor insert is relatively cheap and easy to install. If you ever get stopped by a ranger blm/forest you will wish you had one. With all the resent fires they are really starting to crack down.
 
I started taking every thing apart late this night but only got to take the starter out... I couldn't really twist the carb more then maybe 20 degrees. something on the left side hit the frame if I try to lay the carburetor more then that.

I did however find a very good video explaining how to get to te jets, and I know feel a lot more confident (as long as I can reach the float bowl nut and the top cover plate.

Here's a link to that video, it is for a 37 carb (mine is a 39) but I guess differences will be very small:
[youtube:242mc8c3]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wcMJtKQt4R8&feature=mh_lolz&list=LLqgmQHEuuc4M[/youtube:242mc8c3]


As far as the spark arrestor goes - I was lucky that you guys told me about it before I drove up there and either got fined or even worse - started a fire. I know ignorance is not an answer but I just had no idea that was needed. I'm kind of wondering how come the state inspection requires a mirror but not the spark arrestor... to make a long story short, I ordered one from Rick (offroadboss) and it should be here by Friday. if you have a link to a video or an how-to that shows how to put the spark arrestor in, I will be very happy if you could share it with me.

Hopefull I'll be able to find out the settings I have in the carburetor at the moment and if my new helmet cam gets in on time, I might make a small video of how to do it so the next (dumb) rider can use it...
 
After battling for a few hours, I was finally able to reach the jets and needle. I took alot of pictures in the process to help the next guy so I 'll try and put up a quick slide show as soon as I can.

the pilot in a 40
the main is a 182

The needle is the OBDVR , clipped right at the middle (4 from the top)

s-IMG_20110816_122512.jpg

s-IMG_20110816_123527.jpg

s-IMG_20110816_160059.jpg


I took the chance and cleaned what I could using some brake cleaner

s-IMG_20110816_120806.jpg
s-IMG_20110816_121911.jpg




BTW

any risk if I vacuum the compartment where the needle is at? looked like dust snicked in.


s-IMG_20110816_154644.jpg


Thanks guys !
 

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