2008 FE450 Counter balancer removal

I started this topic in the 650 crank balance thread but wanted to post it in its own topic to make it easier to find. The 650 crank thread has a ton of good step by step posts by bushmechanic. I wouldn't have done mine without it. See page 10 for the pictures of my crank.

http://husaberg.org/mechanical/17329-balancing-80mm-650-crank.html

Ride Report:
I rode the 450 this weekend. It does have more vibration at idle and mid but no more rattle and top end rpm feels way smoother than before. The motor seems quiet,tight and has a new bike feeling. It feels more powerful and revs much quicker even tho I lowered the compression by removing .040" off the top of the piston. It will wheelie easier at any rpm. Stalling is not a problem, still way better than any mx450. The cam makes theese motors never say die. I swear the bike feels 30 lbs lighter. I would not do this if you dual sport a lot. I did about 20 miles of dirt road and my butt could feel the vibs but not too bad in the bars. On trail you don't notice unless you purposefully think about it....

My 2 buddies swapped with me for a few miles.
#1 had a kx450-I told him BEFORE he rode it to see if he thought it had too much vibration. When he got off it, he said he forgot to check the vibration but loved the smooth power and the suspension. I guess that means he didn't notice the vibration at all.....I rode the kx and it had zero vibs but it has a balancer.The kx powerband makes it a mean animal that would stall in a millisecond...Power was a bit more over all than the berg but who cares when trail riding....It was also way too loud, hard to start, crappy clutch. Very fast and stable until it wears you out.

#2 had a 150xc-He told me he could feel the vibs but only when he was purposely thinking about it. But he called it a cheater bike. I rode his 150 and it vibed too just at a higher frequency.

Looking back, I think the sound of the counter balancer rattle was a big issue for me. I didn't think it was that bad at the time, but I remember times even at low rpm road riding in 6th gear, I would down shift and ride in 5th just to get rid of the rattle it had at a certain rpm. And In my memory it just seemed sluggish even though it was plenty fast it had a lazy feel too it before.

thanks for taking the time to write this up eric

lineaweaver referred to the counterbalancer as a clattering piece of junk

like you I found slight increase in vibes up to about 2500/3000 rpm, everything else is improved

bushmechanic said:

thanks for taking the time to write this up eric

lineaweaver referred to the counterbalancer as a clattering piece of junk

like you I found slight increase in vibes up to about 2500/3000 rpm, everything else is improved

Click to expand...

Removed mine too. Balanced the Crank (THANKS BUSHIE FOR THE THREAD) and machined (not me) a spacer to keep it all together. Hopefully, it's all done right and I get to hear it run in a couple of weeks.

Please let us know if or what difference you feel. We are a few out here who are thinking of the same but are reluctant to take the swim unless the vibration levels are acceptable...... but then again.....how much vibration is acceptable ???

Best,
Heimir Bardason

Picking her up on Saturday. I'll keep you posted

I want to do the same.
But I have some questions.

1)
Do I have to balancing each half crankshaft separately?

2)
If I mount the 20mm bearing have to do some ring? Do bearing may extend these 4mm beyond case without support?

Removed mine too, i have a '05 650. The feeling i had was more vibration but it was worth it!!! More power and rapid revving, i also replace the 80mm crank with the 82mm and use the oem elko piston. I suggest to replace the 16mm bearing with a 20mm.

Do you re-balanced the crank?
What factor do you use?

i didn't rebalance the crank but i would try 60-65bf if i did.

Has anyone run a 380 without the balancer? I'm at that point with the 380 project. What to do? What to do?

hacker the 20mm bearing in the 16mm hole works fine, its obviously not ideal but collectively we've found that this arrangement lasts longer than the standard bearing

the rollers themselves (many small cylinders) actually are still within the 16mm hole

to understand what im trying to explain it may be nescessary to install a 20mm bearing and have a good look at it

i like 0.625 as a balance factor

edit; no you don't have to balance each half separately

Kayeffess said:

Has anyone run a 380 without the balancer? I'm at that point with the 380 project. What to do? What to do?

Click to expand...

Just a thought - I'd think that if people consider the vibrations OK on a 650 with a balanced crank, then a 380 should be very well bearable given the lighter components!

yes the rmz450 does not have a counterbalancer

not many people notice

their balance factor is 0.6 - 0.62

The crank is in to have the rod installed. I should have it back next week. There is an "issue" of the pin being .20 too long. I told the rebuilder to make sure the oil holes are lined up and I will deal with it. Sharpening up the grinder!!!

What material is crankshaft made of?
I wanted to drill a hole and I can not. The drill did not drilled
I'd prefer to drill, not to grind.

Probably a heavy tool steel. Maybe 4130 or 4340. A good sharp drill bit should work. A carbide drill would make short work of drilling a crank.

The usual drill bit for metal does not even trace.
I bought today Carbide Tipped Drill Bit. Drilled nicely but at 3 hole broke up.

The crankshaft is surface-hardened that's why it is so hard to be drilled.

I use diamond coated spherical burrs on cranks and gears

Balance factor on the 380 piston on the 470 crank is .59. I'm going to put it together and give it a go.

Kayeffess said:

Balance factor on the 380 piston on the 470 crank is .59. I'm going to put it together and give it a go.

Click to expand...

Please write how much vibrates the engine and when?
I'm at the stage of balancing crankshaft.