Hello all; I am looking for any advice on aforementioned model. I am new to Husabergs (have owned many Jap bikes & two KTM's) I have found a very nice example in excellent condition, but am nervous because I have heard conflicting reports. Some say all pre 2003 "Husy's" are problematic; Local KTM dealer has told me that as long as the valve clearances are checked every 3000klms, they are trouble free. What's the real story?? I thought it best to ask those who know, you afficiendo's. Any info would be really appreciated.
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I'm surprised-22 views and no reply yet.
I currently own the same model and year. It has been bullet proof, in fact the HSBG's from 98-2000 were very good and reliable. When people refer to pre 03 they are talking about the new engine, which was used from 01 and forward and it took them a while to get the reliability in place.
The steering geometry and the suspension is OK, but let's face it pretty out dated by now.
It is a slow steering bike that likes to turn while you are on the gas.
The 501 engine is incredibly fast and will leave a new Honda 450 X in the dust. I do it all the time with a couple of friends who owns an 07 and an 06. When we switch bikes, they always compliment me on how balanced the 501 engine is with decent low rpm abilities and a screamer on top. (It is somewhat flat in the middle where a 525 KTM will feel stronger and be a bit easier to ride)
If the carburation an valves are set the bikes normally start very easy. Many owners have had problems with the SEM ignition, which is the weakest link on the bike, but I have been lucky in that department.
Good Luck,
Hakan
I currently own the same model and year. It has been bullet proof, in fact the HSBG's from 98-2000 were very good and reliable. When people refer to pre 03 they are talking about the new engine, which was used from 01 and forward and it took them a while to get the reliability in place.
The steering geometry and the suspension is OK, but let's face it pretty out dated by now.
It is a slow steering bike that likes to turn while you are on the gas.
The 501 engine is incredibly fast and will leave a new Honda 450 X in the dust. I do it all the time with a couple of friends who owns an 07 and an 06. When we switch bikes, they always compliment me on how balanced the 501 engine is with decent low rpm abilities and a screamer on top. (It is somewhat flat in the middle where a 525 KTM will feel stronger and be a bit easier to ride)
If the carburation an valves are set the bikes normally start very easy. Many owners have had problems with the SEM ignition, which is the weakest link on the bike, but I have been lucky in that department.
Good Luck,
Hakan
ned37
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ya, what he said. only one better would be the 2000 (with that engine) because of the supposed quicker steering. to be honest i've ridden them all and don't think its that much of a difference. good bike as long as you get it freshened up carb and clearancewise. prolly best deal you can get on a real dirtbike for the buck.
Thanks Hakan and Ned: yes, I am surprised that there are not more replies...perhaps most members own newer bikes? Interesting comments re: steering and ignition....
Thanks a lot for your feedback it is very important for a Husaberg "virgin" to take the first delicate steps....One of my concerns is the cost and availaibilty of spares. I am in Sydney, Australia and have heard stories of three month waiting lists, and longer!
Anyway, you guys can't help me with that one, but thanks for your input.
I would still like to hear any other peoples experiences!
Thanks a lot for your feedback it is very important for a Husaberg "virgin" to take the first delicate steps....One of my concerns is the cost and availaibilty of spares. I am in Sydney, Australia and have heard stories of three month waiting lists, and longer!
Anyway, you guys can't help me with that one, but thanks for your input.
I would still like to hear any other peoples experiences!
The 98 and 99 are similar, PDS and ignition were I think the major changes.
My 98 has over 30,000 km with only routine servicing and one major problem. This was valve seats breaking up which resulted in a new piston, valves and seats at 7,000 km. 3 SEM stators, the 3rd a rewind by Small Coil Rewinds that has only lasted about 20 hours. I have sent a SEM to sparks to sort and I expect it to be back sorted properly soon based on feedback on this site. Check the manual, change the reed valve under the clutch, and keep an eye on valve clearances. If they start to get loose, then the roller followers are on the way out. I let mine get a bit far and pitted a camshaft too. Run Delo 400 as discussed on this site, and change around every 5 hours. Get 10 filters for $75 from Ballards. Suttos are knowledgeable on the old bikes, and OrangeBerg is very helpful and skilled in the workshop. Get the suspension sorted, I recommend the genius Frank Pons at Biketek.
Lots of stuff in my gallery on my 07 and 98 here http://www.husaberg.org/index.php?set_a ... _album.php
Discussion re oil in heaps of places, but also here http://www.husaberg.org/index.php?name= ... torder=asc
Buy old dirt bikes on condition, condition, and condition. It helps too if the seller knows something about it and can show you a log book and his shed.
If its starts easy, and runs fine, then that should be a good start. The motors are noisy, a veritable bucket of bolts, so maybe get someone like Suttos to do a once over if you are not sure. If seller isn't interested then he may have something to hide.
501s go great, the FCR is not mandatory, but is probably the best thing you can do to them.
Come to the Force Ride next year and show it off.
http://www.husaberg.org/index.php?name= ... pic&t=6871
Cheers
Steve
My 98 has over 30,000 km with only routine servicing and one major problem. This was valve seats breaking up which resulted in a new piston, valves and seats at 7,000 km. 3 SEM stators, the 3rd a rewind by Small Coil Rewinds that has only lasted about 20 hours. I have sent a SEM to sparks to sort and I expect it to be back sorted properly soon based on feedback on this site. Check the manual, change the reed valve under the clutch, and keep an eye on valve clearances. If they start to get loose, then the roller followers are on the way out. I let mine get a bit far and pitted a camshaft too. Run Delo 400 as discussed on this site, and change around every 5 hours. Get 10 filters for $75 from Ballards. Suttos are knowledgeable on the old bikes, and OrangeBerg is very helpful and skilled in the workshop. Get the suspension sorted, I recommend the genius Frank Pons at Biketek.
Lots of stuff in my gallery on my 07 and 98 here http://www.husaberg.org/index.php?set_a ... _album.php
Discussion re oil in heaps of places, but also here http://www.husaberg.org/index.php?name= ... torder=asc
Buy old dirt bikes on condition, condition, and condition. It helps too if the seller knows something about it and can show you a log book and his shed.
If its starts easy, and runs fine, then that should be a good start. The motors are noisy, a veritable bucket of bolts, so maybe get someone like Suttos to do a once over if you are not sure. If seller isn't interested then he may have something to hide.
501s go great, the FCR is not mandatory, but is probably the best thing you can do to them.
Come to the Force Ride next year and show it off.
http://www.husaberg.org/index.php?name= ... pic&t=6871
Cheers
Steve
If you check my signature you'll find I'm 400km down the road.
As for parts, I've not had a problem yet, one of the Berg dealers in Oz has always had what I've needed in stock. Use the Berg Oz site to find the dealer list. Those who've been dealing with the Bergs for some years have all sorts of stuff, plus with this site, stuff is avaialble from all over the world readily enough.
Steve
As for parts, I've not had a problem yet, one of the Berg dealers in Oz has always had what I've needed in stock. Use the Berg Oz site to find the dealer list. Those who've been dealing with the Bergs for some years have all sorts of stuff, plus with this site, stuff is avaialble from all over the world readily enough.
Steve
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