18 vs 22mm TC Offset Handling Traits

I've read pretty much everything I can find on the 18 vs 22mm offset TC's. I have a problem with the handling of my 2009 FE450 that I haven't been able to tune out with suspension work, sag adjustment, or fork adjustment in the TC's.

My issue is with front end deflection at slow speeds and the front end's tendency to climb uphill on sidehill singletrack with a trail bevel which slants upward toward the inside of the hill. A description of the deflection is as follows: Making a tight turn, the front end will push slightly at slow speeds. If there is a rock, particularly a small loose rock, the front end kicks out requiring a quick stab of the inside leg to save the turn. A description of the sidehill tracking is: Again slow speeds, say 10mph or less the front end wants to climb the trail toward the upward side of the trail/hill. A correction sometimes causes the front end to wash out on the downside at the worst or at least require a steering correction the other direction to compensate for the first correction. This leads to a comical weeble-wobble down the trail.

I am an "A" rider with several class championships/wins in enduros and hare scrambles. I have also ridden in varying conditions having lived, ridden and competed in Hawaii, Northern Calif., Oregon and Arizona. I have also trained with Steve Hatch individually for a three month period to ready myself for national competition before health issues canceled that dream. I have 80 acres of land on which I have a 3.2 mile track with an enduro-cross element and is designed with many technical elements for competition training. I am saying this to forstall too much advice on riding style, not brag, but I do know how to ride competently. Although I welcome style advice if it is specific.

I have other bikes on which I do not experience the issue I have with my Husaberg. My specific question is, would the 22's help here as opposed to the 18's? I am about ready to pull the trigger on a set of 22mm TC's, but wanted to get some advice from those who have tried both alternatives.

Thank you Viking and Taffy. I agree with your assessments. The front end is extremely sensitve to input and that definitely contributes to the correction/over-correction complaint. I am probably not as an exacting driver as some. One time I took a class from Destry Abbott, and watched him demonstrate a particular line several times. I was amazed at how he hit the precise wheel track every time at speed. My line would vary as much as 3 to 4 inches from the previous attempt. Therefore, I am concluding that a less sensitive steering bike may be better for me.
So, I am going to try the 22's.

BTW, other than the complaint I have registered, I love the bike. The motor is one of the best I have owned and the chasis and handling are great with the exception noted.

Ok, here is my report, as promised, regarding a change in TC’s on my ’09 FE450 from 19mm offset to 22mm offset. One qualifying statement: My assessment is what I experienced and is based on my riding style, terrain use, and desired bike responses. It is not necessarily what will work, or has worked for others.

First ride after putting on the 22mm offset TC’s:

(All other settings remain the same. 106mm race sag. Fork set in TC’s at first mark (5mm) below fork caps. Suspension settings as recommended by Johnny Weisman, TBT Suspension.)

Riding from my house down a dirt road with wheel ruts about 1 foot deep. The bike tended to wander a bit, seeking a line, and would not hold a line on the side of the wheel ruts. Next, riding up a medium hill climb single track with loose soil and small to medium rocks imbedded, and with a slight off-camber downhill slant to the trail. The bike tracked better at slow speeds than it did with the 19’s. I could make an uphill turn without dabbing, or loosing the front wheel. Next, was executing tight turns in loose rocks and rock step-ups while still climbing. The bike was more stable, and I was able to make these types of turns with more confidence than with the 19’s. Next, a rocky, steep downhill with medium to big rocks, some loose, some imbedded. The bike was a little skittish here, but not nearly as bad as the 19’s. More speed did not necessarily help here as deflection happened pretty quickly if I relaxed. I found myself holding on too tightly, and gripping very tight with the knees to avoid deflection. Not as comfortable, still better than before. Last, a long loose sand wash with rocks. Holy cr*p, I think I’d forgotten how to ride. The front end was all over the place. I tried various techniques from steering with the rear wheel and using throttle to slowing down to trials through certain sections, but the bike fought me in every scenario.

Assessment: I think the 22’s did help with my slow speed issues, but I gave up too much stability at speed and in soft terrain conditions.

Second ride:

I changed the race sag to 105mm, and dropped the fork in the TC’s to the bottom of the fork caps. Everything else remained the same.

Same route. The bike tracked perfectly on the dirt road. I could hold a line on the side of the ruts. The hill climb was about the same as before, but I could carry more speed, accelerate or slow down without destabilizing the bike. On the loose rocks and step-ups, again, I could carry more speed. On the rocky downhill, I was accelerating like I can do on my other bikes, pick a line and not worry about deflection, AT ALL. In the sand wash the bike worked more closely to what I want it to do. Side point, I really like the way my Hondas work in sand washes. I can steer through turns using power and the rear wheel while keeping the front wheel light. On roads I detect a bit of front end seeking at speed, but nothing too drastic or scary. I can live with this.

Assessment: The 22’s for me are a keeper. They did what I hoped they would do, but one still needs to tweak the settings to get everything right. It is amazing what a single mm of adjustment can do. The downhill tracking was particularly pleasing as I was able to see a line, point the bike there, and it would hold that line with confidence. And… I did not have to hold the bike with a death grip.

The best way for me to sum up the handling is that the front end now tracks like my CRF’s, which I really like. Others may not, but that is the way I like to ride. From a technical viewpoint, I wonder if the fact that the center point of the fork in the 22’s moves slightly more off center from a line drawn from the center of the rear wheel through the steering head as opposed to the 19’s. This may contribute favorably to the wheel arc and the direction of the steering force by being slightly inside the driving force direction, but I’ll leave that for the engineers to discuss. Anecdotally, it works for me and has restored my confidence in the bike’s steering prowess both at speed and in slow riding situations.

I appreciate the advice Viking. I think I am using some of those settings now, and it has made a big difference in how the bike works. I have a ranch in Northern Arizona, and ride in elevations from 4500 to 7500 feet, transitioning from chaparral landscapes with desert type soil to more loamy, tree laden and rocky conditions. So, I get a sampling of a lot of different conditions. During our monsoon season (usually late summer into fall), I get a fair share of wet and muddy conditions as well. One problem I have had with the Husaberg is that it is extremely sensitive to setup changes, and with the differing conditions, any setup has to be a compromise. What I now have with the changes made seems to be pretty neutral. I then must modify riding style and position to account for terrain differences, but that is an acceptable situation.