I have just purchased an 04 FE 550 with a blown crank. Can anybody point me to a new/s hand crank and piston? Rest of the motor is perfect. Is there a better fix for this model. Do not know a lot about the early bergs. Am I better off with a later engine? Whats the best way to fix this??
04 550 crank, main ,bearing numbers??
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Re: 04 550 crank, options please
get in touch on monday with me. I have a 501 crank from two years older than yours. perfectly good. however, it needs a new rod kit .
what do you mean by broken? broken where?
regards
Taffy
69candy said:
get in touch on monday with me. I have a 501 crank from two years older than yours. perfectly good. however, it needs a new rod kit .
what do you mean by broken? broken where?
regards
Taffy
Re: 04 550 crank, options please
Taffy. I have had a good look at it and it might be ok. It appears to me that it is a thrust washer either side of the crank and the inner bearing races that are still on the crank that have broken. Is there a trick to getting these of the crank.? The bearing on the balancer seems fine. Is that a seperate part(bearing)
Is there an udate bearing for this model? as I might as well fix it properly. Are pistons available??
Sorry for all the queations but I'm a honda man and never had an older berg
Ok, here's the update, Got the inner bearing races off, and the crank is fine. I will probably split it and check the rod bearing, feels fine, but with the bits of meatal flying around I think it best to check. What I need now is a part number for an upgraded bearing if there is one? as I have heard this was a problem on the older Bergs. Also need some specs to assemble the crank if there is any? or just true it up and leave the pin flush?? will need to source a piston as well?
more pics here
http://s60.photobucket.com/albums/h24/h ... 50%202004/
Taffy. I have had a good look at it and it might be ok. It appears to me that it is a thrust washer either side of the crank and the inner bearing races that are still on the crank that have broken. Is there a trick to getting these of the crank.? The bearing on the balancer seems fine. Is that a seperate part(bearing)
Is there an udate bearing for this model? as I might as well fix it properly. Are pistons available??
Sorry for all the queations but I'm a honda man and never had an older berg
Ok, here's the update, Got the inner bearing races off, and the crank is fine. I will probably split it and check the rod bearing, feels fine, but with the bits of meatal flying around I think it best to check. What I need now is a part number for an upgraded bearing if there is one? as I have heard this was a problem on the older Bergs. Also need some specs to assemble the crank if there is any? or just true it up and leave the pin flush?? will need to source a piston as well?
more pics here
http://s60.photobucket.com/albums/h24/h ... 50%202004/
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you've had total mains failure on the right which with the oscilations has made the shoulder snap off of the left.
fit the same again but this time just build the crankcases up with only the crank in and check the sideways float. you need .5 to .6mm really. if you've got that you'll be fine. there's nothing wrong with your big end so leave the crank alone but DO change the balancer bearings as they've been dragged through a hedge forwards....
look at the little end while you're there. consider new rings and a cam chain. if the cam bearings are open go to new 2RS and keep 'em like that. should be good to go....
regards
Taffy
fit the same again but this time just build the crankcases up with only the crank in and check the sideways float. you need .5 to .6mm really. if you've got that you'll be fine. there's nothing wrong with your big end so leave the crank alone but DO change the balancer bearings as they've been dragged through a hedge forwards....
look at the little end while you're there. consider new rings and a cam chain. if the cam bearings are open go to new 2RS and keep 'em like that. should be good to go....
regards
Taffy
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sealed bearings on the cam keep the crap out and still allow oil transfer
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I measure the float with a vernier gauge. there is a rod in the end called 'the heel'. use this and purchase it anywhere. use your imagination!!!! yes shims but there is a real chance that you have to have the cases machined. don't scrimp - do it! it's relatively easy no matter how much an engineer whinges on and on. you just need to be clear about how much float you want. always try the crank with the balancer but NO shims at all. then when you go for the final build you know where you stand.
regards
Taffy
regards
Taffy
Thanks Taffy. Yep, used the heel many times. I have a plan in mind to do it. I'm guessing that it may have to much float by your comment to machine the cases? I take it you mean to machine the center face of the case halves to lessen the float? Lots of dumb questions I know, so please forgive me. Used to Jap bikes and have never had to do this. I also guess you have to pull the inner bearing on and off to get the float right when using the shims? Think I'm getting my head around this!!!! Let me know if I'm wrong!! please? 
Thanks again for your time Taffy.
Thanks again for your time Taffy.
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you should be able to get the balancer on and off fairly easily and as i say = no shims for practice. that way the crank is sure to float by some - even tiny amount. what you have to understand is that if you build it up with any extra things on the crank you will have no slop at all and so now you don't know whether you have zero clearance? 0.2 interference? 0.4 interfernece? how do you measure 'interference?
so better to start with slop.
and we're talking about the metal on the back wall of the main bearing house in the right hand case BTW..... :shock:
regards
Taffy
so better to start with slop.
and we're talking about the metal on the back wall of the main bearing house in the right hand case BTW..... :shock:
regards
Taffy
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