02 FC550 WON'T START

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S

Supraflymk3

Joined
Jan 30, 2012
Messages
18
Location
Appleton, WI
I just picked up an 02 FC550 with kickstart only yesterday. It had been sitting sine July and would not start, so I drained the gas and put some fresh Premium gas in it. Tried again still nothing, so I pulled the carb off and took it apart and cleaned it out and cleaned the jets. I then put it all back together and tried starting it and still nothing. With a squirt of starting fluid it either fires or backfires but not often. I'm getting super pissed off, any help would be awesome. It does have fuel and spark, just not sure if its enough spark, I used a sparkplug tester and it flashes bright.
 
I'm new here, but, I went through this with an 01. First read the docs, next check your stator values. No use kicking if the stator is on it's way out. Then find TDC and set timing and valves. Get everything right first or you will be a puppy chasing it's tail. Oh, if it has the Dellorto carb, spend the $$ and freshen it up.

Worked for me
 
Was the guy you bought it from able to start it? it took me six months to be able to kick mine consistanly and coincidently the first time i got it to kick start was an accident, i thought the engine was in the wrong place but thought what the heck ill never start it anyways might as well just kick it and it started, since then i can get it everytime. also you may look into the "poor starting" section of the owners doc (along with all the other sections of the owners doc) technique is a pretty big deal to getting them started it seems, it may be difficult to tell if its the bike that has the problem or if its you.

is the plug wet after you have kicked it for a while?
you have already verified some spark at least, air cleaners ok? make sure you are not opening the throttle when kicking it either.
like kayeffess said check the basic things and go from there. being as you just got it timing and valve adjustment should be checked anyway to make sure all is good. if you dont figure it out or get the feedback you need pm me and i can try and hash it out with you, even though your machine is totally different than mine, i have at least a little berg experience started that may help and from what i understand the kick technique is the same.
and should be very easy to do once you know how to properly start it.
when you check spark are you using an inline spark tester with a light or a good hei tester that forces the ignition to jump a gap?
 
Each beast seems to have it's own starting drill. Figuring out the drill is the issue. I can give you the one that worked for me, on my 02 FC550.
Cold-
Pull the choke.
Pull in the manual decompression device on the bars.
Open the throttle.
Kick the motor through 5 times with the throttle open and the decompression lever held in.
Bring the motor up to TDC.
Release the decompressor and throttle.
Kick it through smoothly and briskly. Make sure the kick start lever is all the way up, don't cheat it. Stand over the bike with your right foot planted on a milk crate or something similar so you can get a good full kick at it.
Mine would usually start on the second kick. If it does not start by the fifth kick, repeat the whole process.
If you smell fuel either in general or through the exhaust, remove the choke and repeat from the beginning.
Hot-
Same as cold only no choke.
Make sure you give it the mandatory 5 kicks with the throttle open and decompresser on. This will clear it out . Make sure to do this regardless of how long it has been shut off whether it be 20 seconds or 20 minutes.

Good luck and may the Force be with you. To this day I think my FC550 was the quickest dirt bike I have ever ridden.
 
Thanks for the tips guys. So last night I was texting the guy I bought it from and it turns out there was a switch next to the left hand grip that I was supposed to have toggled forward. It has three setting a filled in circle, P, and , H. Don't remember if the P and H are in that order but all I know is he told me to put it all the way forward and that it was another ignition switch. I kicked it over a few times with a shot of starting fluid and it didn't start but it was alot closer than it has been. I'm going to go pick up a new spark plug for it today, then after school I'll go mess with it some more. It's supposed to be a high of 46 degrees today so hopefully that will help this coldblooded *****!
I'll let you guys know the outcome.
 
There should be a switch, mine happens to be on the right side of the bars. It is marked Hi/Lo. The bike has a hi/lo ignition map switch. Lo being a traction map. I have never noticed an ease of starting in either position.
 
Got it running today by pull starting it. Got it to idle with the choke on then eventually got it to idle with the choke off but after riding it for a minute it would die when coming to a stop. My question is what is a good base setting for the idle screw and the mixture screw?
 
Supraflymk3 said:
Got it running today by pull starting it. Got it to idle with the choke on then eventually got it to idle with the choke off but after riding it for a minute it would die when coming to a stop. My question is what is a good base setting for the idle screw and the mixture screw?
Click to expand...

I know the repair manual says 1 1/2 turns for mixture screw but nothing about the idle screw.
 
Turn the idle screw in until the bike will idle at an appropriate rpm. However, you may have a partially clogged pilot jet and the best fix is to replace it.
 
RDP501 said:
Turn the idle screw in until the bike will idle at an appropriate rpm. However, you may have a partially clogged pilot jet and the best fix is to replace it.
Click to expand...

Ok, which direction raises the idle? Clockwise?
 
Supraflymk3 said:
RDP501 said:
Turn the idle screw in until the bike will idle at an appropriate rpm. However, you may have a partially clogged pilot jet and the best fix is to replace it.
Click to expand...

Ok, which direction raises the idle? Clockwise?
Click to expand...

Yes
Base idle is a little high on these bikes. Say 900-950 rpms.
 
So I finally had it running good. Last Saturday it was beautiful out so I got it started no problem. My buddies and I went riding all day ran flawlessly. Then on Sunday I tried to get it running again because it was even nicer out and it didn't want to run. So I messed with the mixture screw a little bit and finally got it running but kind of ******. I took it down the block to try and warm it up and it was running like ****. It ended up dying and I walked it back to the house. I was looking at the carb and realized the mixture had vibrated loose and popped out. I ended up finding it on the driveway with the spring right next to it. I totally forgot about the washer and o ring that are supposed to be on there too. I slapped it back together and obviously it wouldn't start. So I decided to check the valves and I thats where I'm stumped right now. I can't seem to get my feeler gauge to slide under the tappet. So any advice would be great.
 
I would double and triple check that I had TDC. I used a dial indicator and made sure it was the stroke when the intake had closed. I didn't use a feeler gauge but used the 1/6 turn method. I did it once and got it wrong because I didn't have TDC would not start. Then I redid it and it fired. Once I figured out how to do it, it was easy.
 
I also have had horrible luck using a feeler guage, i had to redo it due to excessive clearance/noise when i used a guage, and now i also use the 1/6 method, its a pretty fool proof sure fire way to know, just be sure of top dead center with a guage or if you dont have a guage, you can put something like a drinking straw in the plug hole and watch it till it comes up to it highest point, just always make sure the straw is straight up and down and not binding sidway in the hole, you also must make sure that you set tdc on the compression stroke when neither the intake or exhaust valves are under tension, if you set it incorrectly it will clatter like crazy in the top end or not run at all...
so what did you do to get it running good anyway? and you didnt do anything different but it did not start again on sunday from cold?, if you had the mixture screw out far enough to get it running that it fell out, are you running lean in the pilot? or was the rubber o-ring and washer already out at this point and thats why it fell out?
it was very nice on sunday, my starting procedure sunday went like this...choke on, slow kick, choke off, kick, start driving, yours also should start this easy or something not quite right still...
 
I did have the mixture screw out pretty far because it seemed like it was running real lean on idle and low rpm decel. So I replaced the oring that fell out, found the washer. I also pulled my float bowl off and to my surprise the pilot jet oring was all ******, so I got a new one of those. Put it all back together, set the mixture screw to factory spec 1 1/2 turns out. Today I worked on it a little bit more with the 1/6th turn method on adjusting valve clearance got all of them set per the owner doc. rechecked my ignition timing, was slightly off so I moved the stator and lined up stator mark with the right mark on the flywheel. I then set my gas tank back on and turned on my petcocks and gave her a few kicks. finally started and was running decent so i shut it off and put everything back together. I then proceeded to get it running again, in which it wouldn't stay running and it sounded like the valve noise was quite excessive. It also seemed alot harder to kick over after adjusting the valves, even with my decompression cable pulled in. I'm getting so pissed at this thing I just want to throw it off a cliff!
 
it's likely your autodecomp is worn out. see the pics in the owner's doc at the left of the main page. there are different reasons why it's hard to kick and one is the left exhaust is too loose, or the decomp has worn out. if you use the starting method berger mentioned (i always left it a hair past tdc on my 650), the autodecomp doesn't matter.
 

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