0 hours on a FE390

Husaberg

Help Support Husaberg:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Joined
Jun 23, 2010
Messages
139
Location
Canberra Australia
Well thanks to this forum, I bought one today, had it deliverred and its sitting in my garage. Its pouring down with rain and 10:15pm at night and its freezing cold here. I can't even play with it until tomorrow. :angry:

Things I noticed:

- the manual says check oil level when motor is cold - how unusual. Every other bike I had you check when warm. The oil level from the shop fills the entire site glass which is more than in the manual. It goes in 1 hr anyway.

- Page 21 of the manual talks of an idle speed adjusting screw to (i) adjust idle, and (ii) pull out as a choke on cold starts - I thought fuel injection did the choke adjustment automatically for cold temps?

- the back brake pedal is way too close to the side cover - only a micron gap - the cover is going to get scratched. I put some cloth tape at where it may\will rub. What have others done?

- that side stand is the 'suicide model' - the auto retract thing is just looking for trouble on non flat ground. I found it awkward to put the rubber band on the stand - is this necessary? Is there a replacement stand or mod?

- I only started the bike once 'cos its late, and as soon as I put it in gear the engine cut out? may be side stand related if theres a cutout switch.

- Australian bikes come fitted with a 38 tooth rear sprocket? Don't we have big hills - Ayers rock is big? :roll: I got a free box\bag with the bike that also has a 52 teeth sprocket and an additional longer chain.

- the horn is in a location where it couldn't ever be pressed easily - not a big issue.

- 2 kill switches on the bike - one on each handlebar - odd.

- ground clearance is great; my lift stand needs adjusting for more height.

- I assume there is no neutral light as thats for girls?

- fully fuelled the bike is quite heavy to roll around the garage floor. Do people use 95 or 98 RON fuel in their bikes. Manual says 95 but 98 would be better eh?

- is there an aftermarket counter sprocket protector to replace the plastic one? Also is the plastic bash plate good enough for stone abuse?

Tomorrow I will go for an hours ride then change the oil. The oil I have to use to not void warranty is expensive $AU119 for 4 litres - thats twice as expensive as oil I have used in other bikes.
Its fully synthetic too - I thought dino oil was best for engine break-in but I was told 'no'.

Best Regards
Fizz
 
It's my understanding its not a real choke that adjusts fuel mixture, it just increases your idle speed. You wont ever need to use it, I can start my 390 in the middle of winter below freezing without it.

You can cut the two inside teeth off on your break pedal, I haven't done this, but it's probably a good idea.

I don't know if many people use the rubber loop for the side stand, I'm sure its recommended, but many of people I know that have KTMs and I don't ever seem to use it.

The side stand doesn't have a safety feature to kill the engine if it's down when you put it in gear. The clutch just likes to stick when cold.
 
I prefer the side stand the way it is - to each their own. The rubber loop is for those times when maybe the spring has failed - it is a common thing on dirt bikes to tie the side stand (if one exists) up and out of the way so it can't possibly come down and cause a crash. Things get shaken up on dirt bikes. I use it most of the time, especially when I get to the trails.

No cut out or any of that garbage - when the bike is cold it may need a little extra to move forward. I have a Rekluse that drags a little and usually my bike doesn't die when put in gear, but if it is cold and I blip the throttle and go back to idle when in gear from a stop, then the bike may and often does die. Generally I ride it slowly and gently from a stop when cold. It warms up quickly - by the time I have gone a couple of blocks it has warmed up enough to run right.

I prefer the oil level to right when it is cold - I don't want to have to run the bike to know if I am low on oil (like I had to with the DR350) - I find that an odd way to find out you need to add oil.

Yes, the brake lever is too close - I bent it out a little, but I have dropped the bike a number of times, usually on the right side and it hasn't hit the cover - yet.

I run 12/52 gearing. I can still hit 90 MPH indicated on pavement. So the gearing is plenty on the top end if you want to go low. When I dropped from 13 to 12 I lost about 10 MPH at the same RPMs - where I used to shift into 6th at 65 MPH I now shift into sixth at 55 MPH. I have read that most people prefer the 13/52 gearing and some even go to 14/52 or 14/50.

I use the highest octane I can find at the pumps.

There is all kinds of aftermarket armor, including stout counter sprocket armor. The plastic bash plate has held up pretty well so far, but most of the time I hit logs with it, not rocks. Where I ride the rocks are usually not big enough for the bash plate to scrape over them - the plate may get hit by them, but not crawl over them like I do with logs.

I broke mine in with synthetic. I have done that with a number of bikes and cars. No problems. I need to do an oil change soon and I am going to get Rotella T - not the Rotella with 'friction modifiers' which causes clutch problems. You can do some googling around to find the right rating Rotella for wet clutch bikes, if you have that available where you are. It is a very good but relatively inexpensive synthetic. A lot of people use it. I use it in both my bikes and my car (a Bimmer).
 
fizz said:
Well thanks to this forum, I bought one today, had it deliverred and its sitting in my garage. Its pouring down with rain and 10:15pm at night and its freezing cold here. I can't even play with it until tomorrow. :angry:

Things I noticed:

- the manual says check oil level when motor is cold - how unusual. Every other bike I had you check when warm. The oil level from the shop fills the entire site glass which is more than in the manual. It goes in 1 hr anyway.

- Page 21 of the manual talks of an idle speed adjusting screw to (i) adjust idle, and (ii) pull out as a choke on cold starts - I thought fuel injection did the choke adjustment automatically for cold temps?

- the back brake pedal is way too close to the side cover - only a micron gap - the cover is going to get scratched. I put some cloth tape at where it may\will rub. What have others done?

- that side stand is the 'suicide model' - the auto retract thing is just looking for trouble on non flat ground. I found it awkward to put the rubber band on the stand - is this necessary? Is there a replacement stand or mod?

- I only started the bike once 'cos its late, and as soon as I put it in gear the engine cut out? may be side stand related if theres a cutout switch.

- Australian bikes come fitted with a 38 tooth rear sprocket? Don't we have big hills - Ayers rock is big? :roll: I got a free box\bag with the bike that also has a 52 teeth sprocket and an additional longer chain.

- the horn is in a location where it couldn't ever be pressed easily - not a big issue.

- 2 kill switches on the bike - one on each handlebar - odd.

- ground clearance is great; my lift stand needs adjusting for more height.

- I assume there is no neutral light as thats for girls?

- fully fuelled the bike is quite heavy to roll around the garage floor. Do people use 95 or 98 RON fuel in their bikes. Manual says 95 but 98 would be better eh?

- is there an aftermarket counter sprocket protector to replace the plastic one? Also is the plastic bash plate good enough for stone abuse?

Tomorrow I will go for an hours ride then change the oil. The oil I have to use to not void warranty is expensive $AU119 for 4 litres - thats twice as expensive as oil I have used in other bikes.
Its fully synthetic too - I thought dino oil was best for engine break-in but I was told 'no'.

Best Regards
Fizz

Congratulations on your purchase!!

In regards to your post:

The manual should show a range for oil level. Be sure that when you refill, that oil level is in this range as the manual shows. A post a while back from a guy with a 09 450 was having an occasional smoking problem, the cause was too much oil in motor. No more smoking problem now. I was just putting in 1350 cc’s of oil originally and would notice a puff of smoke when I would first start it, the cause was too high an oil level.

Be sure and pull the screen when you change the oil, there will probably be some debris on it. Put a very thin coat on the O rings of the screen after cleaning.

Are you going to change the oil filter too after break in oil is dumped?

Either way, when refilling with oil, don’t just throw in 1350cc’s of oil. Put in 1000cc’s and then add oil in 100 cc increments until you get it in range. If you change the filter, do the same as above, start bike and let it run for two minutes, then let it sit for 5 mins or so and recheck the oil level as the filter cavity holds some oil and you may need to add.

As stated previously the idle speed knob is just for increasing the idle speed during cold starts, not usually necessary.

The bike stalled when you put in gear for the same reasons a lot of bikes do, the cold oil in the clutch, and probably the newness of the clutch, caused it to kill the motor before it disengaged. Not to worry.

You can turn the lighting switch around so you can get to the horn switch easier if you want- 5 minute job.

The reason you have two kill switches is b/c of your government’s laws. All Australian bikes come fitted with a kill switch next to the throttle and start button. The kill switch on the right is how all other countries bikes come.

As far as a neutral light goes I have no idea.

If the manual says 95 RON then use that. 98 will produce less power and more heat.

There is a hard parts clutch slave cylinder protector that you can get. Kind of cool really. EE might make one too.

As far as the bash plate, it depends on how hard you hit the rocks I suppose. I know that it is quieter than the hard parts aluminum one as the aluminum one rings a little. That will be up to you and how and where you ride it. The aluminum one is a work of art though and I have had one on mine since new.

The oil, this is along debated topic here…………..How long is the warranty good for? If the warranty states that you have to run a particular brand of oil, which seems weird as long as it meets the criteria, then run that oil. I think the change interval is 15 hours in the manual although I think that is too long. But, that is one advantage to the fully syn oils, longer change intervals.

I use Motul 5100 15W-50, have in all my bergs since 96 with great success, it’s way cheaper than the Motorex. I also highly recommend the SCOTTS stainless oil filter, better flow, less parasitic hp losses, better filtration, less bypass of unfiltered oil, blah blah. I swear by them, if you think you want a stainless filter buy a SCOTTS do not waste your money on anything else. Otherwise stick with the paper ones.

As far as the gearing goes, put the 52 tooth rear on with the longer chain. The 38 is for DOT stuff. 13/52 usually runs good for everyone.
 
Warranty here in Australia is a whole 30 days - that is not a typo.

Have a new bike and with family and two young kids, yesterday being Saturday and school holidays, only had 20 minute ride of the bike in the last 24 hrs. :roll:


Here is what I thought:

- Wow! Wow! Wow!

- That engine is as smooth as silk, with no vibes and its not even broken in! ALOT smoother than the '06 Husky 610 that is one of best in class for no vibes.

- The engine and exhaust note is niiiiiice. The Husky in comparison sounds like ball bearings in an angry cement mixer.

- The air intake (whistle) between my legs I like - that high air filter location is a BIG reason why I bought the bike.

- That hydraulic clutch is f'ing amazing compared to a piece of wire on my other bikes.

- I was not expecting the seat to be so plush and comfortable. My TE610 is a plank of wood that splits me in two.

- I am 6 foot tall exactly and weigh 84kgs, and can have the balls of my feet on the ground. The FE390 has alot more ground clearance to the bash plate, but is overall lower than the TE610 at the seat.

- the bike looks wide at the tank with flaired tank, but is VERY narrow at the knees when sitting viz-a-viz TE610.

- the bike has a big ***. Dont know why they flared it out - but perfect for subtank.


Regards
Fizz
 
That is a typo of sorts the dealer delivery certificate prints 30 days warranty from the factory however Husaberg's have 6 months parts and labour warranty in Australia.
 
Have a look at Force accessories for bash plate and radiator guards. They are the bomb.

One of the Owners rides a 570, so the gear is good.
 
At 1 hour usage I changed the oil and oil filter and cleaned the main screen. I took out 1.6 litres of oil - the manual says 1.35, so the dealer overfilled.

The oil looked like new when I took it out but:
- the magnetic core had gunk all over it, with minimal metal filings (I did baby the bike)
- the screen had a few bits all over it, and had a plastic\rubbery glue substance.

When I tightened the drain plug and svreen filter, I simply used a ring spanner - I didnt want to thread anything by overtightening - I check for leaks after a ride and all ok - do others use a ring spanner?


_screen2.jpg

_screen1.jpg

_gunk.jpg
 
Your drain plug and filter screen looked like mine did at the one hour change, your next oil change will probably have very little if anything on the pick up screen. The drain plug will usually have a little black fuzz on it but not much.

By ring spanner, do you mean a box end wrench? I had been using that up until recently. Since I bought a small torque wrench I now use a six sided socket and torque the bolts. I tried using a crow's foot with an extension before, but that didn't work too well. They don't need to be very tight, 14ft lbs I think.

At three hours when you check the valves they will be in spec, I have no doubt, and at the check after that you will see them change slightly but will still be in spec, and will probably not change by much in the next 40 or 50 hours. In fact most people have not had to adjust their valves, some with well over 100 hours on their bikes.

The only other suggestion that I could make is to invest in a pro fill filter to put in your fill spout on your tank. I know from other threads that it is hard to see the fuel level when filling, but these screens catch any crap from a pump or your can and hold it instead of having the pre filter on pump catch it.
 
The local dealer said they did not recommend the one hour service; I am glad I did it due to the gunk, and the fact they overfilled the oil by 300ml (thats 22% overfill. The oil in my site glass now is a little under the top where it should be.

I am keen to do the valves myself and oil at 3 hrs. I heard that valves check on this bike is easy. Can someone please run through the steps, and how to find top dead center, an are intake valves at front and exhaust behind? How long approx will it take?

Thanx in advance
Fizz
 
fizz said:
The local dealer said they did not recommend the one hour service; I am glad I did it due to the gunk, and the fact they overfilled the oil by 300ml (thats 22% overfill. The oil in my site glass now is a little under the top where it should be.

I am keen to do the valves myself and oil at 3 hrs. I heard that valves check on this bike is easy. Can someone please run through the steps, and how to find top dead center, an are intake valves at front and exhaust behind? How long approx will it take?

Thanx in advance
Fizz

There is a reason that the manufacturer has indicated a 1 hour service and you just found out why!! Did you check the other filter screen on the scavenging line on the head?

The easiest way to check the valves is to remove the radiators and tank. While you have the rads off be sure and flush them out well, there is junk in there too from the manufacturing process.

It will take you approximately 1 hour or less to check the valves. There is a dot on the cam bearing carrier, and the cam gear wheel. You put the bike in 6th gear and turn the motor over getting the dots to line up on the COMPRESSION stroke. I have pm'd you some further instructions.

Intakes on top, and exhaust on bottom.

Are you sure the dealer put the oil in the bike? Or did it come that way from the factory? IMO, oil level at the top of the glass is too high, have a look at your manual, and split the difference in the shown range, b/c when it gets hot, it's going to be too high where you have it set.

Dale
 
Hey Fizz,
I am using Shell V-Power 98 RON in mine and it seems to go OK. Dale is correct I should be using 95 RON

Berglsmerg has already answered the valve question:
"Valve lash is easy just remove fuel tank and unbutton radiators ( mounting bolts only leave the hoses connected ) loosen 4 bolts on the cover and you're away. There are markings on the head and cam that will give you tdc and there is even a provision for locking the crank at tdc. It's a two beer job."
Berglsmerg is from QLD and probably drinking XXXX which tastes so bad you can't drink them too quick, so I reckon it is probably a 4 beer job drinking Carlton or Crownies

My Australian FE570 came with 52 rear sprocket. The owners manual said your 390 should have come with a 52 rear fitted. Only US FE models came with 38 rear

Neutral is real hard to find and yeah there is no light.

There is a picture of the kill switch mod in this post:
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=12521

The idle speed knob just lets more air in the motor when you pull it out. The EFI Computer will adjust more fuel when cold based on Coolant Temp Sensor (Software Choke :) ). EFI in cars have a similar pullout "idle speed knob" but it is an electrical solenoid operated automatically by the car EFI computer.

DaleEO, I had to google "box end wrench". Never heard that before. We call it a ringy. Used in the context, "Chuckus the firteen mil ringy cobber, it's just near me long neck, and I'll whip this sump plug out as soon as I scrape the roo ***** off it"
I have a 3/8 inch drive Torque wrench but can't get it on the Sump Plugs. Are you using a 1/4 inch drive Dale?
I'm using a ringy Fizz, but will change to Torque Wrench when Dale enlightens me.

I have never used the rubber band for the stand.
I am on the $120 Motorex too :?
 
Davo said:
My Australian FE570 came with 52 rear sprocket. The owners manual said your 390 should have come with a 52 rear fitted. Only US FE models came with 38 rear
The FE450 I collected on Saturday came with a 38 fitted and a 52 plus a chain in a cardboard box, so it's UK models too (maybe all EU?).

Just a touch over-geared on the 38 8O, but ok for breaking it in on the road! As already suggested, I'd guess it might be something to do with either emissions or noise checking so that the engine revs are lower when the bike's tested.
 
petem said:
Davo said:
My Australian FE570 came with 52 rear sprocket. The owners manual said your 390 should have come with a 52 rear fitted. Only US FE models came with 38 rear
The FE450 I collected on Saturday came with a 38 fitted and a 52 plus a chain in a cardboard box, so it's UK models too (maybe all EU?).

Just a touch over-geared on the 38 8O, but ok for breaking it in on the road! As already suggested, I'd guess it might be something to do with either emissions or noise checking so that the engine revs are lower when the bike's tested.

Hi Petem,
Actually the 2010 Owners Manual says:
Final drive (FX, FE USA) 13:52
Final drive (FE EU, FE AUS) 13:38 (13:52)
Think there is a typo in the manual.
This is a good laugh "touch over-geared on the 38" :D
 
Davo said:
Hey Fizz,

Berglsmerg is from QLD and probably drinking XXXX which tastes so bad you can't drink them too quick, so I reckon it is probably a 4 beer job drinking Carlton or Crownies

Carn davo we both know carlton beverages are there to stop the drongos drinking all the xxxx. Yeah two long necks and bobs ya uncle mate ay.
RE 38 sprocket: its for noise testing. Also I run BP ( is that a swear word or what ? ) Ultimate which is supposedly 98 ron, I was lead to believe that US gas is much better quality then aussie petrol and the grading system was different so perhaps we are on the right track with the 98 davo ?

PS what happened to the NSW State of Origin team davo ? Probably dinkin that Carlton junk :lol:
 
berglsmerg said:
PS what happened to the NSW State of Origin team davo ? Probably dinkin that Carlton junk :lol:

Think NSW need to bring back the biff, we can't seem to play football. At least we won the fight last year :D
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qT1MfRyHkOM&NR=1


I have been running 98 RON in everything, even my mower and Husqvarna Chainsaw. Just fill everything up from the same 20L drum.
 
pffffft woteva davo lets see what happens on wedensday. Furthermore http://www.xxxxangels.com.au/

I think there was a thread here about the way octane levels are graded, but I'm sure our premium is ths US regular.
 
Yes Davo, I'm using a 1/4 drive torque wrench fits in there just right.
 
Whilst my thread is being used as a beer thread, I came across a blue handled tool in my new toolkit that I used to open a bottle of beer with (Crown Lager) - is it really just a bottle opener 'present' from Husaberg - I tried it on the spokes and it doesn't fit, so whats it for - or is it just a bottle opener? :bounce3:
 
fizz said:
Whilst my thread is being used as a beer thread, I came across a blue handled tool in my new toolkit that I used to open a bottle of beer with (Crown Lager) - is it really just a bottle opener 'present' from Husaberg - I tried it on the spokes and it doesn't fit, so whats it for - or is it just a bottle opener? :bounce3:

It's a bottle opener.

p.s. Crown lager is glorified Fosters :puke:
 

Register CTA

Register on Husaberg Forum! This sidebar will go away, and you will see fewer ads.

Recent Discussions

Recent Discussions

Back
Top