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Re: RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Orange cable
These readings are good, remember the values will alter slightly depending on the temperature, lower the temp lower the reading and visa versa.
From what you have done I would say that the coil does seem the likely problem, why this should be I don't know, it worked fine with your stator on the rig here.
Can you borrow a coil just to test this theory?.
Regards
Sparks.
fe501 said:
These readings are good, remember the values will alter slightly depending on the temperature, lower the temp lower the reading and visa versa.
From what you have done I would say that the coil does seem the likely problem, why this should be I don't know, it worked fine with your stator on the rig here.
Can you borrow a coil just to test this theory?.
Regards
Sparks.
Re: RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Orange cable
unfortunately no i have no idea were to get one down here i am the only person i know who has a husaberg and this is the first one i have ever seen now i wish i never bought it. is the coil that you think it the problem the wire that goes from the black box to the hat and spark plug or do you mean the actual black box?
sparks said:
unfortunately no i have no idea were to get one down here i am the only person i know who has a husaberg and this is the first one i have ever seen now i wish i never bought it. is the coil that you think it the problem the wire that goes from the black box to the hat and spark plug or do you mean the actual black box?
RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Orange cable
well im waiting for a reply from rick but since im waiting i want to try some more test first off i should be able to see a spark if i hold the plug without touching the head correct? and how can i test if my stator magnet is bad? can i test values while kicking what should they be?
well im waiting for a reply from rick but since im waiting i want to try some more test first off i should be able to see a spark if i hold the plug without touching the head correct? and how can i test if my stator magnet is bad? can i test values while kicking what should they be?
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RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Orange cable
Make sure you give it a proper kick when checking for a spark. The iginiton needs a certain amount of revolutions to start working, if I recall correctly it's something around 300rpm, wich is a good kick.
Made this mistake before as it is ackward with the left side kicker, trying to hold the lead 1cm from the block and then giving it a proper kick to get the amount of revolutions needed for the ignition to start working.
If it does work you will see the spark jump from the lead to the block clearly even if it is during daylight.
About the test, first thing you need to do is take the spark plug cap off of the coil wire, hold the coil wire +/- 1cm from the engine block (wich is the ground for the ignition system) give it a GOOD kick (an extra pair of hands make this a lot easier) and you should briefly see an electrical arc between the end of the lead and the block.
If this works try it with the spark plug cap and spark plug in place, just hold the plug AGAINST the block and again give it a good kick you should see a spark from the centre of the plug jumping to the bent metal part thingie
Make sure not to touch any metal parts on the spark plug
Make sure you give it a proper kick when checking for a spark. The iginiton needs a certain amount of revolutions to start working, if I recall correctly it's something around 300rpm, wich is a good kick.
Made this mistake before as it is ackward with the left side kicker, trying to hold the lead 1cm from the block and then giving it a proper kick to get the amount of revolutions needed for the ignition to start working.
If it does work you will see the spark jump from the lead to the block clearly even if it is during daylight.
About the test, first thing you need to do is take the spark plug cap off of the coil wire, hold the coil wire +/- 1cm from the engine block (wich is the ground for the ignition system) give it a GOOD kick (an extra pair of hands make this a lot easier) and you should briefly see an electrical arc between the end of the lead and the block.
If this works try it with the spark plug cap and spark plug in place, just hold the plug AGAINST the block and again give it a good kick you should see a spark from the centre of the plug jumping to the bent metal part thingie
Make sure not to touch any metal parts on the spark plug
Re: RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Orange cable
tried this and nothing, i check to see if the grounding box is good and it seems to be grounding everything properly. what else could it be? i feel like its something really easy and stupid but cant figure it out the bike sat outside rain snow and shine before i bought it and it didn't run after that but it did before i cleaned all the connections i could and all the values seem to add up. when i check out my magneto for the stator it pulls any metal object to it and i cleaned it all the magnets look to be in place but there is some kind of white peeling stuff here and there would that do anything?
BelgiqueBasterd said:Make sure you give it a proper kick when checking for a spark. The iginiton needs a certain amount of revolutions to start working, if I recall correctly it's something around 300rpm, wich is a good kick.
Made this mistake before as it is ackward with the left side kicker, trying to hold the lead 1cm from the block and then giving it a proper kick to get the amount of revolutions needed for the ignition to start working.
If it does work you will see the spark jump from the lead to the block clearly even if it is during daylight.
About the test, first thing you need to do is take the spark plug cap off of the coil wire, hold the coil wire +/- 1cm from the engine block (wich is the ground for the ignition system) give it a GOOD kick (an extra pair of hands make this a lot easier) and you should briefly see an electrical arc between the end of the lead and the block.
If this works try it with the spark plug cap and spark plug in place, just hold the plug AGAINST the block and again give it a good kick you should see a spark from the centre of the plug jumping to the bent metal part thingie
Make sure not to touch any metal parts on the spark plug
tried this and nothing, i check to see if the grounding box is good and it seems to be grounding everything properly. what else could it be? i feel like its something really easy and stupid but cant figure it out the bike sat outside rain snow and shine before i bought it and it didn't run after that but it did before i cleaned all the connections i could and all the values seem to add up. when i check out my magneto for the stator it pulls any metal object to it and i cleaned it all the magnets look to be in place but there is some kind of white peeling stuff here and there would that do anything?
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RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Orange cable
501, I'm a big fan of using the spark tester, the top of it has a standard spark plug connection and the bottom has a spring loaded clamp. Very easy to clamp on to a bolt on the engine block. It also has an easily adjustable spark gap. I don't recall the part number , but I got mine at an Auto Zone parts store. Also check ALL of your connections, also check the wires to the connectors. Ie: hold the connector and give a little tug on the wire, this was the problem I found on my bike. Make sure your ground wires have a good connection free of debris or rust. If your stator values are good it MUST be a wiring/ connection issue. Good luck
Ron
501, I'm a big fan of using the spark tester, the top of it has a standard spark plug connection and the bottom has a spring loaded clamp. Very easy to clamp on to a bolt on the engine block. It also has an easily adjustable spark gap. I don't recall the part number , but I got mine at an Auto Zone parts store. Also check ALL of your connections, also check the wires to the connectors. Ie: hold the connector and give a little tug on the wire, this was the problem I found on my bike. Make sure your ground wires have a good connection free of debris or rust. If your stator values are good it MUST be a wiring/ connection issue. Good luck
Ron
RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Orange cable
Hey Stoveguy can you send me a pic to a similar one that you are talking about or a link all i see is in line spark testers and those are too big for our spark plugs. also what wires need to bee hooked up to make a spark? not the headlights right? what about the the yellow wire that comes out of the stator wire harness that way o know what wires i can focus on.
Hey Stoveguy can you send me a pic to a similar one that you are talking about or a link all i see is in line spark testers and those are too big for our spark plugs. also what wires need to bee hooked up to make a spark? not the headlights right? what about the the yellow wire that comes out of the stator wire harness that way o know what wires i can focus on.
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Start from scratch, disconnect every single wire you have, check if all the connectors are still ok and then do this:
Stator: connect red, green and black to the cdi module, the blue wire is the ground wire connect this one to the frame, make sure you have a good connection (no paint/rust/grease,...)
then from the CDI module connect:
- thick black wire to the spark plug
- black wire to the frame make sure you have a good (read no paint/rust/grease,...) connection from the bare steel of the frame to this wire as this is the grounding wire
- orange wire, leave this one unconnected for the moment, this is the wire that goes to your kill switch. There is a very small chance that the kill switch is broken and preventing your bike from starting, by leaving this wire disconnected you rule this out as the problem.
-grey wire, connect this one to the high/low switch
High/low switch:
connect the brown wire to the frame (ground)
Leave all other wires disconnected, if you do not have a spark with this setup the wiring is not the problem.
PS, the two yellow wires are the wires wich feed the accesories (lights, horn,...) they have nothing to do with the ignition system.
Stator: connect red, green and black to the cdi module, the blue wire is the ground wire connect this one to the frame, make sure you have a good connection (no paint/rust/grease,...)
then from the CDI module connect:
- thick black wire to the spark plug
- black wire to the frame make sure you have a good (read no paint/rust/grease,...) connection from the bare steel of the frame to this wire as this is the grounding wire
- orange wire, leave this one unconnected for the moment, this is the wire that goes to your kill switch. There is a very small chance that the kill switch is broken and preventing your bike from starting, by leaving this wire disconnected you rule this out as the problem.
-grey wire, connect this one to the high/low switch
High/low switch:
connect the brown wire to the frame (ground)
Leave all other wires disconnected, if you do not have a spark with this setup the wiring is not the problem.
PS, the two yellow wires are the wires wich feed the accesories (lights, horn,...) they have nothing to do with the ignition system.
ned37
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i agree with the steps recommended by bb above with the exception that i would leave the grey wire disconnected, defaulting the hi/lo to hi and eliminating the switch.
...and just to clarify; what is the year and model?
...and just to clarify; what is the year and model?
ned37 said:
I will try those steps and look for that tester asap its a 1999 fe501 and i don't have any switched at all except a kill switch, i do have a headlight and taillight tough and also a trail tech endurance on it with no switches.
ned37
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it would be nice to know what voltage the stator is delivering, rather than just a pulse.
the only real way to check the cdi is to swap in a known good one and use yours in the donor machine to demonstrate a no spark condition.
the only real way to check the cdi is to swap in a known good one and use yours in the donor machine to demonstrate a no spark condition.
How can i check the voltage the stator is giving out? the specs on the stator are good 3000 and 165-170, Can anyone borrow me there cdi that fits a 1999 fe501 i can pay-pal you the money as a deposit send it to me i will test the theory and send it back and of course reimburse you for the help. anyone? please.
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