MY STORY, E-START AND MORE (Just Another one !!)

Hi All,

Firstly thanks for this amazing forum, truly a lot of info here. I got my first Berg some 2 months ago, but unfortunately havn't ridden it more than 5 times.... But what a ride !!!! In the past i had sports bikes, but the last 7 years was on a Suzuki DR 650., with occasional offroad. Also did a lot of MX on Husqvarnas'. But now it was time for something new and to try out the Super Moto style !! You don't see many off these one the roads here in Denmark, so it's nice to stand out. Only because these bikes are far to expensive to register for road when the taxman is done !!

This thing is by far the most thrilling experience i've had, and you don't have to go at rocket speed to have great fun like on sports bikes. And you don't have to find a track or go offroad either.... My new "playground" is the STREETS !!!! just outside my door... Don't get me wrong, I'm still a "responsible" chap with wife and 3 kids !

I got it cheap (Yep, 6000 GBP is cheap here), knowing that i would have to spend a "little" money to get it up to speed. Previous owner just had liner, piston and mains renewed, so that part of it should be ok.

I fitted new lights, speedo and a few other bits to get it MOT'ed. I knew from day 1 that i wanted the E-start to work !!! And when the beast backfired on me twice, and strained my anckle, I decided to do something about it NOW. I couldn't walk for a week!!! Being a freelance worker in the offshore industry, i cant affort to call in sick because of a bloody hobby !!

So this is where I am now, spent many nights on this forum at my last trip offshore, took the thing apart the other day and have allready been in touch with Taffy !!!

After this "introduction" I will keep it technical, and begin with a new post with my findings so far.

Have attached a photo of the "new" baby

Anders, Denmark

Looks good in all black Anders........... no doubt Taffy will sort out your starter issues.

Oh and welcome to the forum,

Carl

So this is where I am now.

The Berg was a good starter with the right technique.... Previous owner had it, and I also kinda' pickes it up... until it strained my foot !! Before that happened I could kick it alive in 1-4 kicks. The kickstarter was ROCKHARD over TDC, and had like 2 hard spots to get over (using the manul docomp) before you could kick it. The kick activated decomp moved the little arm to the excact same angle as the lever on the handlebar. And the manual docomp worked, so i think things have been set up correctly there. The E-starter could not overcome TDC and slipped with a whining noice. Sprague or tq limiter, I dont know. I crancked ok with manual decomp activated.
The auto decomp certainly did not do its job, and to get everything right I have decided to go over every bit in the "Poor starting guide"

TOP & CAMCHAIN
Not surprisingly I found a 53 cam in it with oldstyle decomp, but with a steel sprocket. The decomp spring had slipped on the shaft, and the flyweight could ot lift it self up. Maybe this was root cause, as the decomp did not look worn to me. Have sent the complete camshaft over to Taffy, and will get a Hi Torque cam back with new decomp and bearings fitted. (I hope)
Can not detect any sluggishness or wear in the cam followers or tappets, so I will continue running them for now.
But I found my camtensioner to be fully streched out !!!, and chain a little slack !!! Ordered new chain and new style blade from Taffy as well !

STARTER & ELECTRICAL
Bought a Beefy starter from Taffy (Mitsuba SM 14). Doubled up the thick cables to and from relay and the groundcable as well. Checked all connections, relay and keyswitch for continuity. Measured my stator values. Red/Black 2860, Green/Black 166, Blue Yellow 0.5. Think all theese are good values. Only thing to question is the plug cap values..... Found different values in different threads.... Should i run 3500 or 5000 ohm cap ??? Mine is 5000 ohm. I have not don the live tests, so no voltage readings yet ! The stator looked like new by the way. AND Yess, I will check the TDC marking with the fead stop method.-

Also ordered an Iridium plug, and will renew the battery as well. (YTZ7.... something)

BEHIND LEFT COVER
Will shim up the tq limiter. Took the spraque apart and found the "rollers" with no wearmarks in them, so thats good. Polished everything with fine emery, and tightened up the circular spring a tiny bit.

Ordered a modded kickstarter cresent from Taffy. Inspected the reed valve, and got rid of the nasty sharp edges on the gear shift mechaism !! Hopefully this will help me to find neutral ?????? It was very dífficult, and could only be done while bike was still rolling. Or does that sound more like a bad clutch ???

BUT Also found the markings on the cranck and countebalance shaft to bee 1 tooth out !!! Could the camchain have jumped.. ??? Maybe this is the reason to the backfires when kicking ???? Nice anyway to find an obvious fault ! , But don't understand that the bike was running so sweet anyway !!! Fast as ****, and very responsive at all revs !

CARBURATION
Will take the thing apart, and fit new jets and needle, as per Taffy recommendations, and test the float valve. The bike did not need any choke to start but had a sweet idle both cold and hot, and no hesitation on throttle.

Now Ladyes and Gentlemen... Just awaiting my new parts and have high expectations allready !!!! BUT in real life I wil probably get dissapointed and find more faults as i move on in my eager to get the BUTTON to work HOT & COLD !!

I gladly accept comments and suggestions.. and will keep you all posted along the way.

Anders, Denmark

IT'S ALIVE !!!!

SO hers my continuation of the LONG story, as I got the parts from Taffy's the other day.

Camshaft is now the Torque cam fra Taffys, with new style Decomp. It was a beast to get the new spring right, and it kept slipping on the shaft. I ended up cutting one round off the sping and made a new and tighter "D" bend. It now snaps back the weight, but still does't lay flat in the groove.. What a lousy design that is, I can only hope it continues to work !!!

Installed the new cam chain & new style tensioner, removed the Alu head and cut 1/3 off the spring. The chain is now tight and didn't even move a click when putting the spring in.

Got the timing right, and also checked TDC using "dead stop method" Mine was 8 deg out. Using the new TDC there was NO doubt in how to time the gears and make the cam lobes equal height when installing the chain, whereas before tho whole thing seemed to be 1/2 a tooth out. I left the ignition timing as is, and havn't strobed it. So knowing the real TDC doesn't really make a difference to me, other than timing the cam & gears was easier when spot on, as per book !

Also i put in new atomizer, needle, choke jet and some gaskets.

I put everything back together & just for fun I tried filling the carb up and drippled some fuel in the boot.... At this point i hadn't installed the beefy starter & new battery yet, but sprague and torque limiter WAS tuned up. Using 5-40 Synth. oil

AND THE BEAST STARTED UP AT ONE TOUCH ON THE E-START !!!!! Same beast that almost broke my leg not so long ago ! A bit noisy though, with only the downpipes on in my little shed !

Also did Taffys Kicker Cresent mod. I takes another "Bite" on the engine now.... But i HAVN'T used it !! E-start is the way to go in my world.. for now anyway, untill things get worn again :-( I can recommend to get Taffy on the phone when installing the mod, as I had to RE-mod it a little to get it right.

To be safe I installed the stronger starter and Battery, and hopefully this leaves me with only the jetting issues i have now.... Did I mention it starts on the E-starter now.. ??? Did I ??

I would very much like some advice on my jetting now, as things are not perfect after upgrading the top and renewing needle and atomizer.

Before it would NOT start with choke on. I therefore went from 45 to 40 choke Jet.
Now it needs the choke when cold.
Before it had a sweet idle, and you should not touch the throttle when starting it
Now it needs a TINY bit of throttle to start (E-starting)
Before the Pilot screw was 1 turn out and idle screw 3,5 out, sweet idle and snap wheelies
Now I had to turn in the Idle screw to prevent it from stalling, but still it isn't right and sounds "nervous & erratic"
I tried adjusting the pilot screw, and it seems that the idle is a bit better & higher when it's fully in (But still erratic), and when really hot it idles high after reving it up for a few seconds and then comes down to normal (But erratic) again.

From what I understand, when the pilot screw goes fully in, you have to go down 1 size pilot jet "" ??? As if it's running too rich... right ???
BUT that doesn't make sense to me, beacause i now need to use Choke to start, as if it was leaner than before .... right ??

My setup now is as follows:

Idle screw 2 out
Pilot Screw just opened !
Atomizer 272 DR
Choke 40
Pilot 40
Main 190
Clip: no 3 from top

I would really appeciate your help!!!!

Did I mention my bike starts on E-start HOT & COLD, did I ???

Anders, DK
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the correct pilot jet is a 35 for your bike anders. so you now have a tight and lean atomiser necessatating choke but when warm it is too rich. what you need is a 33 or at most a 35 PJ. you will need choke with no throttle at all and you'll pull that pilot screw out to 1.5 turns. when all this stuff is fresh, tight and lean you may find in the summer that the #40 is perfect while it may be that the #45 is needed in the cold times.

eventually in a year or so the #40 will be all you need due to the wear of the carb.

i trust these idling issues were with the complete exhaust system on again right?

so you are on target still, you just needle the needle on the correct clip and the correct PJ in there.

regards

Taffy

Yep, the exhaust was on at the time. It's a loud Husaberg cross exhaust. Will try smaller PJ, but actually after riding a lot today it has become better and better....

Still cant get my head round this.... I understand that its leaner now with less wear on needle and atomizer, wherefore i nee choke to start now. Nut you also say that when warm it gets too rich...... why is that... ?? At this point in time I offcourse have the choke off again !

The clip position is only affecting at "more throttle" right. ? Will playt with that as well, but wanna get the idle & sterting perfect first...

And for the record, do you count clip pos. from top or bottom ??

Anders, DK

it means that

if it takes an imaginative figure to run the bike at idle called for arguments sake '8', and you needed '12' (so choke is worth 4) to start it we can say that your bike had a worn atomiser and needle making '10' and the rich PJ was adding '1' to make '11'. that's why it used to start without choke after a few kicks but never with choke as that would have added a further '4' to make '15' - and too much!

so now you are on '8' plus '1' for a very rich PJ - a total of 9. you need '8'. so get that PJ right down and you'll have your '8'. choke is '4' and it takes '12' to start it so in theory, get that PJ down and it'll start with full choke in the first kick with a #45 - or be too rich and not start at all. this is how all husaberg owners of the early 'naughties' remember their bikes; if it didn't start first time you didn't know what it wanted! some choke/no choke/in/out/in/out etc.

with the #40 you might not catch it first time but with full choke between kicks 2-6 you will catch it for sure.

now remember that that needle and atomiser will start to wear even in the first year and you ride the bike say once every 21 days so every time you ride you are in a different part of the season with different temperatures/humidities/air densities so they are changing as the carb is wearing....

this is why starting a husaberg with a dell orto on it is hell!

regards

Taffy

I totally understand that with the imaginary numbers.... (this is getting a LONG thread i can feel....) That explains why I choke now, BUt But But,

Now that my carb is leaner with new needle/Atomizer, I would have thought i needed bigger PJ to compensate because my bike used to have perfect idle. Well well, I also fitted a new cam and changed the timing one tooth, so I am actually mixing things up here that might have influence as well.

All in all I will take your word, and see if i can get my dirty hands on some PJ's locally tomorrow. If not You will have me on the phone again !!!

Do you count clip posn. from top or bottom ?

Anders, DK

from the top. if you need anymore proof that you are too rich at tickover - just remember that the fuel screw is turned right in to kill the extra feed. what else need i say....!

regards

taffy

Taff,

All day testing and you are RIGHT. But the leaner needle pos was the thing that really made a difference.... Going leaner on the PJ was just finishing the job off.

Read my story on this thread, think you'll like it !

http://husaberg.org/index.php?name=PNph ... 0292#90292

Anders, DK