Small crack in engine mount

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nice and tidy machine smithy a credit to the duster lol lol did you put the stickers on if so how do you put them on without getting air bubbles all over the place i no theres a knack but ill be buggered if i can do it crispin how did you do yours i bet it was hard lining them up with your cross eyes :roll:
 
2 schools of thought on this subject;

1. With heat
2.Without heat

I prefer without heat (apart from the spoon bending heat your thumb & fingers give off...).

Line up the position, & then apply, working slowly, gently & carefully from one corner, massaging the decal on evenly. I usually peel back gently & re-massage it back down if I see any bubbles form.

I have used the Mrs' hair drier when getting into difficulty with bubbles etc, but I've found that as the decal becomes more flexible with the heat, its easier to distort & u can get wrinkles.

If anyone has mastered it, would love to know their technique???

p.s. the eyes are a disadvantage, so I usually keep em closed! :rr:
 

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Cheers folks!
I had problems with the aluminium engine brackets cracking too. I found the distance between the front frame tubes being different from the width of the engine (some 2mm if I remember correctly). Also there was a difference between the upper and lower width in the frame, causing high static tensions to the brackets. I machined aluminium sleeves, equal in length to the engine width, and mounted two long bolts through the frame. No more cracked brackets! Well, the front downward tube cracked instead... :)
Just thought it might be worth looking into.
 
Cheers for input Dr C , i'll have a look when i get the bracket off and see what mine looks like gap-wise.

Mick i didnt put them on myself BUT, i suppose the principal is the same to tinting windows on cars which ive done a bit of. Basically you get a weak fairy liquid/water solution and spray it on the surface to be stickered (after a proper clean!) , then you spray the back of the sticker too (after peeling the backing obv.). when you put it on it slides around enabling you to get it in position and then squeegee the bubbles out with a windscreen wiper or old credit card. once in position you just leave it for the water/fairy liquid to dry out and voila, perfect sticker ! takes a day or two and helps if its in a dry warm environment. Im unsure if this applies to these stickers though with regards to the type of sticky stuff they use ! It sure worked for the tints and theyre VERY hard to get right without bubbles !! they have some really strong adhesive on them.
 
thanks for the info Smithy,

All, would be really interested to know if anyone has had success with this technique with Hussa decals???? Sounds a bit less difficult to do this way.

p.s. Smithy.... those "tinted windows on car stickers"....?? It's not "Smithy & Stacy" stickers @ the top of your windscreen from your formative years is it?? (with a couple of fluffy dice, go-fast stipes & guns n roses blaring out the windows to complete the image..??).

Come on, own up...?

:rock:

Crispin
 
Haha nah its just from my boyracer days when i helped a few mates tint their windows and put sun strips on for them ;)
i have seen a few horrendous efforts of tint application where they have obviously just stuck it on with no lube and ended up with a tint thats more bubbles than tint lol.
i havent seen the stickers off a bike, are they (excuse the poor explanation, hope you get what i mean) 'papery', like if you sprayed water on the back, would it soak through the sticker itself? tints and sunstrips are just paper thin polythene type material which is totally waterproof and the method i described is the ONLY way to get tints etc on without bubbles !!
If the sticker kits are totally waterproof throughout and dont just have a gloss outer face, then i'd say the water/fairy liquid method will work an absolute treat !!
 
on-one-wheel said:
"they have obviously just stuck it on with no lube"
Click to expand...

Sounds painfull!

Anyway, just checked an un-used decal, waterproof I'd say, so the fairy with lube method should work.

On the engine mounting plates, they look symetrical to me, so should be the same, left or right.

Cheers

Crispin
 
aye i would try the 'lubed' method mate, much better hahaha

and yes cheers crispin they were identical (it even shows in the parts manual as one plate but two of them needed) ive now got halfway through making replacements at work (i love night shifts) but unfortunately they're out of mild steel as we didnt have any ally or stainless in req'd thickness. i also did notice when i took the rhs plate off that, as someone on this thread mentioned before, it seems to bolt up not-quite-square with the engine and frame. i'm going to look into this tomorrow once theyre finished and ready to be re-fitted. this could be the cause of the cracks :?: il let you all know what i find and also how i get round it (if i can)
off to work now :D
 
Hi Smithy, they look good. Just be careful of gaps, slight misalignment/not fitting up square, as this will inevitably result in localised stresses when bolted-up tight, that could lead to cracking sooner than expected.

Crispin
 
yeeeeep cheers crisp. i slotted a washer in the 'gap' when i put it back together and all is nice and square, wouldnt tighten it ****-eyed. this was what probably caused the ally to break as it did (maybe?). its a whole washer width out to my engineering eye. finding it hard to get a good photo as the front wheel gets in the way. will try and get one tomorrow when im not so tired.
 

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