A couple of questions???

I have a 2006 fe450 I have been running 5w-50 Mobile1 synthetic and Lucas Oil additive at a 80% mobile 20% Lucas. Last oil change I was at my fathers shop and my brother in law had borrowed my oil for his Rino. Long story short I did not realize this until I drained the oil.

To get her home I used a 10w40 and the Lucas additive. Since I purchased the bike 6 months ago I always had a tinny raddle at idle. With the lighter oil it has stopped.

Any ideas on why?

Also: If you run straight coolant without diluting to a 50-50 mix why will this harm motor?

Thanks for everyones input this site is amazing!

10w 40 is a slightly heavier grade oil than 05-50 it is the first # than specs the oil weight.
Why the rattle stopped ...do not know.

parks said:

I have a 2006 fe450 I have been running 5w-50 Mobile1 synthetic and Lucas Oil additive at a 80% mobile 20% Lucas. Last oil change I was at my fathers shop and my brother in law had borrowed my oil for his Rino. Long story short I did not realize this until I drained the oil.

To get her home I used a 10w40 and the Lucas additive. Since I purchased the bike 6 months ago I always had a tinny raddle at idle. With the lighter oil it has stopped.

Any ideas on why?

Also: If you run straight coolant without diluting to a 50-50 mix why will this harm motor?

Thanks for everyones input this site is amazing!

Click to expand...

If you were to run straight coolant you would experience overheating. Conversely if you were to run straight distilled water you would get good heat transfer. Straight water with a little water wetter would probably be best as far as maximum cooling goes.

By using the higher visocity oil 10w40 (thicker) perhaps it has a sound dampening effect. Who knows. Most here run 5/50 to 15/50 with no issues.

RE: Re: A couple of questions???

Doesn't the first part of the oil number (5w or 10w) indicate the winter or low temperature minimum viscosity and the second part of the number(40 or 50) relate to the viscosity when at 100°C???
Therefore the 10w40 oil would be a lower viscosity than the 5w50 when at running temp.

Re: RE: Re: A couple of questions???

Coastie said:

Doesn't the first part of the oil number (5w or 10w) indicate the winter or low temperature minimum viscosity and the second part of the number(40 or 50) relate to the viscosity when at 100°C???
Therefore the 10w40 oil would be a lower viscosity than the 5w50 when at running temp.

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NO!

the second number is the vicosity of a straight rate when warm so what we're saying is

5/50w

it starts as a 5w and hangs together like a straight 50w would when warm.

i don't run 5 or 15, i run 10 (because i'm an awkward bugger!)

regards

Taffy

RE: Re: RE: Re: A couple of questions???

Yeah so when warm a 40 is thinner than a 50 isn't it ??

RE: Re: RE: Re: A couple of questions???

yep coastie. spot on.

that's why in general you'll see

20/50
15/50 or 40
10/40

and more recently 5/50 and even 0/50 with the synthetics.

you'll also see a code on the side of an oil can in your motor store and on the side it will give the base spec that that oil has met.

the letter after the S is for petrol and the letter after the C is for derv.

so "SG/CD" is not as good a spec oil as
a SH/CE. i have often dsaved money by buying a non-brand name with a higher spec over your castrols etc etc (for my car ok?)

regards

Taffy

OK, So I have been racking up some incredible mileage this month on errands,work any excuse I can get to ride.

Last night I gave her a oil change. It was only 5 hours but curiosity was killing me about the tinny raddle at idle. As soon as I went back to the 5w-50 mobile1 my raddle came back. Anyone have a clue?

an awkward bugger you are ol' Taffy!! You crack me up (laugh). :forthosewhothinkyoung: especially after a few adult soda's!

Lets clarify this oil thing Parks.
a 5w50 is always a 5 wt oil,the second number,in this case 50 is the claim by the oil maker that its viscosity rating(not viscosity just the rating)is the same as 50w when warm.
A 10w40 will always be a slightly thicker oil at any temperature,but its rating is not as wide as the 5w50 .
The second number in a multi grade oil is achieved by the additive package in the oil,the oil never changes viscosity in use.
As the oil gets time on it,its ability to retain its multigrade rating deminishes and it becomes a 5w40 then 5w30 and so on...this is the prime reason why most engines with a small oil capacity require more frequent changes.
If you engine runs quiter with a 10w 40 then maybe that is what you should use.
Really light base oils such as 5w have advantages in cold tempurtures to aid start up and also to provide very quick oil pressure to plain bearing engines.
The Husaberg engine does not normally operate in below zero temps and is a ball and roller bearing engine so there is no real need to run a light oil.
The full synthetics now available offer a very high level of film strengh even at the light 5w weights but they are still very light(read thin ) and contribute to a noisier engine.

Hey nsman,
That did nothing to "clarify this oil thing" for me. I am confused. It really doesn't matter because I'm just gonna pour the oil in the filler hole and not re-engineer it or anything. I'm just curious.
The way I read your reply is that viscosity is not, as I always believed it to be, the 'thickness' (sorry for the lack of technical terminology)of a fluid and that 5W50 is the same thickness (there I go again) at 40degrees F. as it is at 200degrees F.?
Or that only the first number indicates viscosity and that multi-grade oil doesn't get thicker when it heats up?

I always look for easy descriptions like thick and thin or tall and short or stupid and smart, so please don't lay any engineering jargon on me or I'll have to call tuts to get it translated. If it isn't fairly easy to explain don't bother and I'll just keep filling up with Delo and forget I asked. The last thing I want to do is cause another massive OIL thread.
Thanks,
Dez

nsman said:

The second number in a multi grade oil is achieved by the additive package in the oil,the oil never changes viscosity in use.

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the second part of that sentance is all you got wrong!

hey dez, i am simple so how can i make it complicated!

they used to make oils that were brill when hot, that held together and were brill all the way AFTER they had warmed up!!!

lets just take two straight rate oils like we had back in the early seventies and before.....:

example:
a straight 50w oil ends up like a 10 when hot
a straight 40w is like a 5 when hot

so we have to start with that the knowledge that a thick oil hung together better than a thin oil did. stick that in yer noggin first and then we can go forwards!

trouble is, when starting the bike, the oils are too thick. so they designed oils that start out thin (the first number) but also hangs in there like a 50 would or a 40 would for instance when hot.

the wider the gap in the two numbers the harder the oil tried to be thin on starting and to hang in there when hot!

5/50w means that it is a 5w when cold and when it is hot it still has the viscocity that a very hot and runny 50 would have at that time.

in the numbers

5/50
15/50
10/40
20/50

there is actually no quote of what the viscocity is or will be when hot, merely that "this oil will hang in there like the second number" would if it was just a straight oil (a 40 or a 50 etc etc).

regards

Taffy

And some oils do use a heavier base stock and the additive package provides the W (Winter, or cold) viscosity. Penrite here downunder do for example, and as the oil ages/wears, it gets thicker at low temperatures.

Steve :roll:

Taffy said:

nsman said:

The second number in a multi grade oil is achieved by the additive package in the oil,the oil never changes viscosity in use.

Click to expand...

the second part of that sentence is all you got wrong!

hey dez, i am simple so how can i make it complicated!

regards

Taffy

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Taffy,
Thank you. I appreciate that simplicity and the use of non technical terms like "runny" "noggin" and "hang in there". I presume "brill" is slang for brilliant.
I do appreciate the clarification.
Dez

Taffy said:

there is actually no quote of what the viscocity is or will be when hot, merely that "this oil will hang in there like the second number" would if it was just a straight oil (a 40 or a 50 etc etc).

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Well, actually it is.

The second number tells us that the oil conforms to specific requirements at a specific hot temperature. The first number that the oil conforms to specific requirements at a defined cold temperature.

These specific requirements are those standards quoted on the side of the oil can. Different standards may have different requirements.....If you know those standards then you'll know exactly the viscosity limitations the oil will need to pass those standards and therefore be able to stamp the specific numbers on the side of the can.

To go back to the original question.

Essentially the references tell us the viscosity of the oil at specific temperatures.

Viscosity, or the fluid's ability to withstand shear forces, basically translates into friction.

If you have a lower number, as has already been explained, it means that the oil produces less friction at that specific temperature.

Your previous oil which produced more friction caused a mechanical response in the form of a rattle and with less friction it has eliminated that rattle because parts whichever they might have been that are moving with a film of oil between them can move with less friction which is stopping them from rattling.

Alternatively, the lower friction has resulted in a lower oil pressure somewhere (because the oil will flow through holes easier, for example), that has stopped a mechanical flutter or similar.

Conjecture but my 2p worth, anyway.

All the best,
Simon

have not heard the oil issue for a while......all is good stuff, but half the starting problems are the starter working against cold oil....so with a 5w/60 you get easy starting off the electric when cold and when hot get the benefit of the 60. I beleive you should aim for that spread (5 - 60). The 5 helps with pumpablity when cold to get to those poor roller rockers from the splash and sneak up into the bearing pins. also bergs get very hot and even more so when you cover them in bash plates without holes and that is why I think the 60w is very important. When hot the higher the better. In hot climates I would rather go 10/60 and kick start when cold than go a 40 or 50w. I think following the manual is the way to go.

I seldom see higher than 25C and as a street bike I really appreciate the e-start so I am leaning towards a 0W-40 Delo/Rotella oil If there was a 0W-50 I would do that but I haven't found one yet.

Cheers

Mark

chilledspode said:

I seldom see higher than 25C and as a street bike I really appreciate the e-start so I am leaning towards a 0W-40 Delo/Rotella oil If there was a 0W-50 I would do that but I haven't found one yet.

Cheers

Mark

Click to expand...

mobil make one.

regards

Taffy

Thanks for that Taffy - never seen it on a shelf...

Cheers

Mark

what about Mobil 1 Racing 4T 15W-50...?