Hi i have a problem with my clutch as in it won't disengage fully, and won't let me select neutral when the engine is running. i read on this forum about problems with the shaft through the clutch not being long enough, is this the problem? :?
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What year and model?
Selecting neutral can be a real pain on early 2000s, even with the engine not running. To get into neutral while running, you'll have to let the bike move forward after selecting neutral, which is usually easier to set from 1st, half a click up. To get into neutral with the engine off, you often have to push the bike forward while in gear. This I think makes the drum rotate (don't kill me if I am wrong).
As for the drag, did you bleed the line? Change the oil? Make sure the clutch lever engages all the way? Mine used to drag a little bit, nothing serious, but when it was cold I had to rev a bit before pushing into 1st.
I bled and changed the oil (plain baby oil works). I also changed the master cylinder as I broke it in a fall, and I replaced the OEM lever with a CSV lever, which can be adjusted to push a bit farther into the cylinder than the OEM. Start with those easy checks and fixes. No more drag in my case.
Selecting neutral can be a real pain on early 2000s, even with the engine not running. To get into neutral while running, you'll have to let the bike move forward after selecting neutral, which is usually easier to set from 1st, half a click up. To get into neutral with the engine off, you often have to push the bike forward while in gear. This I think makes the drum rotate (don't kill me if I am wrong).
As for the drag, did you bleed the line? Change the oil? Make sure the clutch lever engages all the way? Mine used to drag a little bit, nothing serious, but when it was cold I had to rev a bit before pushing into 1st.
I bled and changed the oil (plain baby oil works). I also changed the master cylinder as I broke it in a fall, and I replaced the OEM lever with a CSV lever, which can be adjusted to push a bit farther into the cylinder than the OEM. Start with those easy checks and fixes. No more drag in my case.
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- May 17, 2005
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- north island new zealand
The New Zealand importer told me how to select neutral while engine runs .It sounds hard to believe but it works-slowly increase engine revs while maintaining pressure on gear lever.The trans mission slips threw easily you just need practice as to how much pressure is required and how many revs other wise stop motor in gear then select neutral.
My clutch has NO DRAG ,if your clutch drags might be different story in my experience 27 years mc mechanic i would first replace the springs this is the cheapest thing to start with and can make a world of difference ,then the drum,if you undo the oil filler cap you can see or feel what movement you have at the clutch plates
My clutch has NO DRAG ,if your clutch drags might be different story in my experience 27 years mc mechanic i would first replace the springs this is the cheapest thing to start with and can make a world of difference ,then the drum,if you undo the oil filler cap you can see or feel what movement you have at the clutch plates
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I've also found the clutch drag to be very noticeable on my bike when the engine is cold. When the clutch is dragging like this neutral is not easy to find, unless you're rolling along. When cold and shifting from neutral to 1st I've found it's best to be rolling forward to ease the engagement.
As my engine warms up the clutch drag is much less noticeable and it becomes easy to find neutral.
As my engine warms up the clutch drag is much less noticeable and it becomes easy to find neutral.
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- Nov 20, 2001
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- Ely, England
as a front line mechanic nowadays froggy, you should now know that the clutch plates are RAZOR THIN whether they are in contact with the basket or the drum. with such enormous and violent force as that of say a 501cc engine pulling a lardy frenchman (ok un petite enfant!) up a rockface you can imagine that dumping the clutch and also several thousand clutchless gearchanges are going to make the plates notch the inner drum which is aluminium unlike (sadly) the basket which is steel and doesn't even mark up!!!!!
this would be fine BUT, BUT, BUT in order to get neutral you MUST, MUST be able to free the gears - in other words to use the clutch - even if it's for the first time that day!
WITH THE DEEP GROOVES, THE PLATES ARE TRAPPED IN THEIR LANES RATHER LIKE GREYHOUNDS IN THE STALLS.
i changed mine and for over a season i had a prefect neutral, indeed if it not for racing i would have had PN for much longer.
it ain't that often you make lineaweaver smile but i obviously hit the button with this one because he agrees that husaberg could have made a lightweight steel drum that would have weighed no more than the alloy one and we could all be celebrating quality "neutral time" to this day.
this is the case against the alloy clutch drum m'lud. thank you.
Taffy
this would be fine BUT, BUT, BUT in order to get neutral you MUST, MUST be able to free the gears - in other words to use the clutch - even if it's for the first time that day!
WITH THE DEEP GROOVES, THE PLATES ARE TRAPPED IN THEIR LANES RATHER LIKE GREYHOUNDS IN THE STALLS.
i changed mine and for over a season i had a prefect neutral, indeed if it not for racing i would have had PN for much longer.
it ain't that often you make lineaweaver smile but i obviously hit the button with this one because he agrees that husaberg could have made a lightweight steel drum that would have weighed no more than the alloy one and we could all be celebrating quality "neutral time" to this day.
this is the case against the alloy clutch drum m'lud. thank you.
Taffy
Taffy stop the mockery you know very well I am only a hobby mechanic trying to understand how thing works.
I guess a clutch will not function well if there is lack of proper lubrication, which means not enough oil and loss of viscosity due to oil age and temperature.
As for the drum, I guess I might be up for a new one myself, now that I know that it is made of aluminum (thank you for telling me), it might explain why I have had hard gear changes lately.
"Razor thin"? I hope you shave electric, or else you must be sporting the Chabal look. My clutch plates look like they would drag without lubrication.
I love it when you speak French, by the way.
I guess a clutch will not function well if there is lack of proper lubrication, which means not enough oil and loss of viscosity due to oil age and temperature.
As for the drum, I guess I might be up for a new one myself, now that I know that it is made of aluminum (thank you for telling me), it might explain why I have had hard gear changes lately.
"Razor thin"? I hope you shave electric, or else you must be sporting the Chabal look. My clutch plates look like they would drag without lubrication.
I love it when you speak French, by the way.
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- Ely, England
ha! ha!
i love it when you finally bloody smile, we're trying to get you to the full-blown laughter stage....
chamber
they're all alloy. you realisethat you are being ultra picky? we're talking grams and then on a trail bike??????
good luck
regards
Taffy
i love it when you finally bloody smile, we're trying to get you to the full-blown laughter stage....
chamber
they're all alloy. you realisethat you are being ultra picky? we're talking grams and then on a trail bike??????
good luck
regards
Taffy
I still have a worn 'drum' - I called it a clutch hub - from my old KX, I can post some photos of it if its any help for our friends to visualise what the problem is.
on the KX, I had equally as bad notching on the basket, I replaced that one with a Mitaka Alloy basket, the manufacterer purports it to be harder than steel in brinnel (Hardness scale), unfortunately there was no such solution for the hub, (I replaced that one with original), but with one of the two parts of the equation working it will be better - not good or perfect though.
Azza.
on the KX, I had equally as bad notching on the basket, I replaced that one with a Mitaka Alloy basket, the manufacterer purports it to be harder than steel in brinnel (Hardness scale), unfortunately there was no such solution for the hub, (I replaced that one with original), but with one of the two parts of the equation working it will be better - not good or perfect though.
Azza.
- Joined
- Nov 20, 2001
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- 17,028
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- Ely, England
eyh i see now you did say steel. sorry about that....
you'd be amazed how many of these things nearly swop between totally different manufacturers. one othert thing to look for is a distorted plate. you'll spot it by the 'local' blueing.
good luck
Taffy
you'd be amazed how many of these things nearly swop between totally different manufacturers. one othert thing to look for is a distorted plate. you'll spot it by the 'local' blueing.
good luck
Taffy
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