BlueLakeBerg said:
Hi Dale,
I've had the bike a few years now but only get to use it maybe two weekends a year or so.
Oil is definitely coming through the screw holes. I've got the stator off now and had to put the screws back in to keep the oil from flowing out. I'm not sure where the other end of the hole goes. I was assuming into the case, but please tell me if otherwise.
I don't have the bike here. Decided to take it to Euro Motors in Davison, MI and let them have a look. Since I really only have ridden the bike twice since I put the last stator in, I was hoping there would be a way to have the stator covered under warranty. They are going to review my electrical as well. No I haven't added anything to draw any extra current. Headlight, taillight. Thats it. Rarely use the lights as I do mostly woods riding during the day. Front brake light wiring is disconnected.
As for running hot, I'm not sure how to answer. I have seen antifreeze coming out of the overflow if I'm sitting for a long time while the bike is running on a hot summer day. I'm afraid to shut it off while it's hot for fear that it won't restart, as the bike has been troubled with hot restart problems for one reason or the other over the years. I do believe I've seen it flowing in the radiator with the cap off while running.
A common problem I have had in years past is, if I lay the bike down while riding, or stall the bike, it is very difficult to start. I can run the battery dead, and then kick it until I'm dead, and nothing. At that point I'll assume the plug is soaked, but upon checking, find the opposite. It will be bone dry. Can anyone explain this phenomenon?
After a long time, usually after walking back, getting a truck, bringing the bike back to the cabin, I can kick it once, and restarts. Talk about frustrating.
Any help or advise recommendations, etc., are more than welcome.
As for the burned wires, I'm trying to remember, but I believe it was the black.
Thanks,
Steve
Hmmmmmmmmm...............
Sounds like you either have a sticky float/needle set up in the carb, or the float height is off. Not having the float height set correctly will make the bike hard to start, especially if it's set too low as the pilot jet is at the top fo the float chamber. Either way, I'd have the bike shop go through the carb and clean it out thoroughly as with the amount of usage that you get, and if you don't drain the float bown completely, there is a very good chance that the jets are clogged with varnish.
You may have something there with the sticky float/needle. I'm currently running a Keihin carb. May go back to the "Big D". We'll see what the shop says.
The starting problem is just that a problem. You should not have that much trouble restarting the bike as long as it is tuned properly. Have the valves been adjusted lately? This is a great contributor to starting issues, as well as not having the carburation set up properly. When you are trying to restart the bike hot, have/did you try using the choke? What is your starting procedure when cold?
It seems that with the current tuning I don't even have to use the choke for cold starting. Can't recall whether I've tried for hot starting. For cold starting I kick it over slow a few times with the ignition off until I hear it blubber a little, then I bring it just past top of compression stroke and kick it through. Usually starts first or second time. Of course I've got it leaning on a tree at that point so I can really focus on the kick and not worrying about trying to hold the bike up.
To gain a bit more clarity, I believe that there are 3 screws that hold the stator, is oil coming out of all 3 or just the lowest one? I find this a bit odd anyway but stranger things have happened. A suggestion, and or question here. When you change your oil, do you measure how much you put in? Those motors are only supposed to have a litre of oil, I think there's a 1L cast into the case right next to the fill hole. When you change your oil, after the bulk of the oil has drained out, you should hold the kill button down and kick it through a few times as this will remove the remaining oil that's in the crankcase, and it will then drain out through the drain hole.
I usually fill to the lower edge of the oil fill opening. I can't say I measure how much I'm putting in or out. I'll try your advise on the kicking out of the extra oil. As for the screw holes, I'm pretty sure at least two of the three. Again, don't have the bike here to give you firm answers.
The Husaberg engines have a little reed valve on the clutch side of the crankcase that allows the oil in the bottom of the crankcase to be pushed out while the piston is coming down, and as the piston starts back up the reed valve closes. While oil will accumulate in this area if the bike has been sitting, I guess if the stator screws went into the crank area it would make oil flow as you say out of the holes if the screws are removed. I have to wonder whether you bike is/has been overfilled with oil as well.
As far as the oil coming out of the stator screw holes. Who changed the last ignition? As parsko said one should be able to seal the screws with a lock tite sealant product.
Had another shop diagnose and change out last stator. Very reliable shop but not a Husaberg dealer.
Another thing to keep and eye on, when you change the air cleaners, be sure and look down into the boot that connects the carb to the back bone of the frame and make sure there isn't puddle of oil sitting down there in front of the carb. If there is, be sure and sop it up with a clean rag.
Back to the melting wires, the reason I asked about the electrical system is that the yellow wires are the 12 volt output of the stator, with the blue being the ground reference for the 12 volt system, and the other wires are for the ignition. So I was wondering if there was some kind of high load on the charging/lighting system. That's good that your shop is looking over the electrical system.
