ok im taking the plunge!!

McMucker · Dec 28, 2005

Had my fs650e 5 days and still cant start it
I have put new stator in, cleaned and oiled it and got a good spark. I drained old fuel last night and put some fresh stuff in. I also cleaned the carb inlcuding main and starter jet. After charging the battery last night I had a go today with my new mx boots.
gave it a right good kicking and only ended up with a painfully bruised foot as it kicked back twice with vengance.
If there was a shop mechanic open sometime soon it would be left in but as its xmas all I can do is work on my own devices and look at it.
Im going to take a run down the road and get some feeler guages now and attempt to do the valve clearances. I have never attempted this before but have read the faq and reckon I should be able to give it a go.
If anyone would like to assist me I am available online on msn messenger [email protected]
clearances are .1mm for intake and exhaust valves?
Is there anything I should be careful or aware of?

ENDOG · Dec 28, 2005

I would double check your ignition timing...sounds like you are too advanced to me...

Taffy · Dec 28, 2005

put a tow rope around your right footrest and have a go at a bump start.

many a time this is all they really need. get them going, warm them up and they're fine.

good luck

Taffy

logjump · Dec 28, 2005

McMucker said:
clearances are .1mm for intake and exhaust valves?
Is there anything I should be careful or aware of?

.1mm is correct for my '02. Not sure if the newer bikes are different. You'll need a narrow feeler gauge with a bend on the end or you may end up doing it by the 1/8 turn method.

Things to be careful of? Yes, be careful what you stick in the sparkplug hole to fine top dead center! :shock:

Logjump

logjump · Dec 28, 2005

Taffy said:
put a tow rope around your right footrest and have a go at a bump start.

good luck

Taffy

It may not want to start as it's being drug down the road on it's side. :wink:

Log

McMucker · Dec 28, 2005

logjump said:
Things to be careful of? Yes, be careful what you stick in the sparkplug hole to fine top dead center! :shock:

Logjump

well I left all my pencils in work thx

I'll stick with my plastic straw

Why do you think my ignotion timing is advanced?
it is determined by the marks on flywheel/stator right?
Whn puting in the new stator I left the old flywheel in for a lack of lfywheel puller and also as it had a white mark on it which I assume was puit there in the past as to indicate were the stator mark should meet. So now it is as shown in this picture.

LeFrog · Dec 28, 2005

If this is at TDC, yes, it's advanced. It needs to align with the left mark, as per the manual.

Download the Husaberg video #4 from the download section. It shows how to set your timing.

Also download the user's manual from www.husaberg.se.

McMucker · Dec 28, 2005

I have the workshop, owners and parts manuals.

Here is an extract from the workshop manual saying to align with the mark on the right.

Thing is I dont se how this can be that precise as when TDC is achieved by usin a straw stuck in the plug hole and flywheel rotated. at TDC the flywheel can have some side to side play and yet not be inicated as the straw doesnt move.

see attachment for snapshot of workshop manual

LeFrog · Dec 28, 2005

Yes, you're right but advancing the timing sometimes helps. You indeed are slightly advanced. But it may not be bad.

This is how mine is set, but I have no chance moving the stator to adjust anyway. And yes, the bike starts. It was me, not the bike

Taffy · Dec 28, 2005

le frog

that is TDC you're at there. the engine turns clockwise when looking at it from the right.

you can move your stator but what you mean to tell everyone is that yours is stuck!

regards

Taffy

McMucker · Dec 28, 2005

had another go altho didnt attempt valves. i ******** the ignition a little. see pic.
I seemed a little different as it tried to start.
I checked more acureatly for TDC on compression stroke and it seemed to be a few degrees anitclockwise from where it should have been altho i didnt want to ****** the ignition that much but may try again.

I took a pic down the plug hole also and dont like what I see.....

McMucker · Dec 28, 2005

oh yeah... and this time when putting it back together I squirted a tiny bit of fuel into the plughole before closing up.
as I did I noticed a tiny vapour of smoke displace out of the plughole. rather weird. like some left over smoke escaping as gas was put in.

LeFrog · Dec 28, 2005

Taffy said:
le frog

that is TDC you're at there. the engine turns clockwise when looking at it from the right.

you can move your stator but what you mean to tell everyone is that yours is stuck!

regards

Taffy

That's correct and it shows that being in advance (as I am, on the left mark) is not totally bad. Yes, it's stuck but it's working as is so no fix necessary until it dies.

In our friend's case, he should try and adjust on the right mark first (that's what I meant first).

The stock gap is usually around 1mm and could be reduced to 0.7mm (or .028" if I am right). Source: Dale.

McMucker said:
oh yeah... and this time when putting it back together I squirted a tiny bit of fuel into the plughole before closing up.
as I did I noticed a tiny vapour of smoke displace out of the plughole. rather weird. like some left over smoke escaping as gas was put in.

The fact that it wanted to start is a good sign. You need to work on the quality of the kicks. Strong and confident, it should start.

Squirting fuel in the plughole will not do a lot, maybe instead do more bad than good. You should instead kick it several times without the plug (make sure it's grounded or plug the spark tester and ground it), in order to dry it a bit.

Often if you feel it about to start and then nothing, the best to do is to vent, because if the plug is wet, it's going to be harder to start.

Hakan · Dec 29, 2005

I'm not nearly the expert on HSBG's like some of the other guys,but I tend to agree with everything written here. I also had a hard time initially when I bought my bike.

1. The technique for kicking it is very impotant, you have to do a really full stroke, otherwise nothing. This week one of my frinds normally on a KTM took my bike for a spin. After several tries from him standing next to the bike trying to get it going, I took one stab at it and it fired right away like always when I use the normal procedures.
2. Make sure you're getting fuel. If my bike has been sitting for 6 weeks or so I have to empty the fuel bowl before it will even think of starting.
3. Usage of choke is so so, partial choke seem to be the best for me, then an easy warm up.
4. No throttle at all.
5. If all other fails which I have done once before I started using the above methods-Tow rope, bike in second or third, tow it far to see if you get it going(in my case this time 300-400m)

Smorgasbord · Dec 29, 2005

McMucker, I'm getting a little bit confused here.
It seems to me as you advanced the ingnition further rather than ******** it. If the mark on the stator is more to the left, then it will meet the flywheel marks sooner, more advanced. If the stator mark is more to the right in the peephole, then it will meet the flywheel marks later, more ********. Please correct me guys if I'm wrong here.

BTW, regarding the valves if you necessarily feel that they may be the culprit. If you do not dare to or are not ready to untighten the valve adjuster screw lock nuts just yet, you could still open the lids and check if there is ever so little play in the rockers. Wouldn't necessarily have to measure the play either right now. Just check that they don't bind where there should be play. Secondly, now that the lids are off, you could perhaps check the centrifugal decompressor at the same time, that the valves does that minimal lift a bit before TDC. I can't remember if it is the exhaust or if it is the intake valves that do the centrifugal decomp lift. It will be obvious when the do. If it is worn it will not lift enough to decompress. Others have written about this in the forum. But I have never had the problem myself so I can't say wether this would affect kickstarting or not.

McMucker · Dec 30, 2005

Ok well you could be right about the igniion.. I am unsure.
I am going to put it bck to the white spot.. but anyhow.. I got it going. Basically it took allot of kicking, then some easy start sprayed intto intake and then a few bump starts in thri with a push. I got it runnign and then got the idle and mixture sorted out so it now seems to run fairly ok. It had allot of popping/backfiring to begin with which has now died down a bit after adjusting mixture but the mechanic said it could be sucking in air at header pipes. The E start is useless. I ned o get a new starter clutch and better battery. I am now able to kick it with around 5-6 kicks. It was quite a scarey first ride as the roads were wet, cold and slimey and it was dark. I left the ignition mapping on low and til it squirmed everywhere. I will put a fresh litre of good oil in tomorow and new filter and try to get it dialed in a bit better

anyhow

Thx for all your help and advice

braaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaap!

LeFrog · Dec 30, 2005

Good, that's what we like to hear.

One thing I found out to know if you are at TDC, is to feel the decomp lever. If it is totally slack, then you're at TDC and all you got to do now is kick it hard from top to bottom.

Another thing I found out is that the bike will start easily if you start it every 2 or 3 days.

ok im taking the plunge!!

Help Support Husaberg:

McMucker

ENDOG

Taffy

logjump

logjump

McMucker

Attachments

LeFrog

McMucker

Attachments

LeFrog

Taffy

McMucker

Attachments

McMucker

LeFrog

Hakan

Smorgasbord

McMucker

LeFrog

Similar threads

Register CTA

Recent Discussions

Recent Discussions