Water pump bearing, how do you get it in without breaking it?

Connecticut_FE550 · Jul 24, 2024

Well… tried to replace the bearing on my FE 550 and now it doesn’t spin.

I have to order a new bearing and a new seal.

So I don’t mess this up again, how do you go about getting it in without breaking it in the process?

Edit: I put the cover back on and kicked it over a couple times slowly. The shaft does spin and the bearing seems a little looser now that it’s had a couple rotations. Hopefully this is good enough

husabutt · Jul 24, 2024

Your aftermarket water pump bearing installation should be similar to an OEM part. I have noticed that if the bearing is installed too deeply or tightly, it creates excessive drag. The seal that attaches to the bearing (or in your case, it may be two separate pieces) gets pushed too tightly against the inner race, causing drag.

When installing a new bearing, I warm the case as much as possible with a heat gun and then put the bearing in the freezer overnight. This may be overkill, as this bearing has a very "loose" interference fit anyway. Gently tap the bearing in with a hammer and socket along the outer race. Just seat the bearing and do not force it in. I have installed the bearing too tightly and faced the same issue you are experiencing. I was able to successfully remove the bearing and reinstall it a little looser so that it spins freely. From your pictures, it looks like the bearing is installed at the correct height but maybe a fraction too tight. It may be that the inner race will cut the rubber seal away and self-adjust to the correct tightness, eliminating the need for further action.

Connecticut_FE550 · Jul 24, 2024

husabutt said:
Your aftermarket water pump bearing installation should be similar to an OEM part. I have noticed that if the bearing is installed too deeply or tightly, it creates excessive drag. The seal that attaches to the bearing (or in your case, it may be two separate pieces) gets pushed too tightly against the inner race, causing drag.

When installing a new bearing, I warm the case as much as possible with a heat gun and then put the bearing in the freezer overnight. This may be overkill, as this bearing has a very "loose" interference fit anyway. Gently tap the bearing in with a hammer and socket along the outer race. Just seat the bearing and do not force it in. I have installed the bearing too tightly and faced the same issue you are experiencing. I was able to successfully remove the bearing and reinstall it a little looser so that it spins freely. From your pictures, it looks like the bearing is installed at the correct height but maybe a fraction too tight. It may be that the inner race will cut the rubber seal away and self-adjust to the correct tightness, eliminating the need for further action.

Thanks for your insight, I’m going to let it ride and get back on the road.

I am able to turn the bearing a little bit and was able to see it spin the impeller when I kicked the engine over slowly.

I’m very new to working on bikes and just want to get back on the road after 2 months of repairs. The time I had with my 550 was been very fun but I don’t want to destroy my machine.

heidenberg · Jul 25, 2024

With a frozen bearing and warmed case it'll just drop right in

Water pump bearing, how do you get it in without breaking it?

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