Gap when installing cam chain tensioner.

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o6550

o6550

Joined
Oct 29, 2023
Messages
74
Location
Northern Nevada
I am installing the can chain tensioner - 2006 fe550e after replacing the timing chain with a new one. The plunger is fully retracted, yet when I install it, it hits the cam chain guide long before it sits against the gasket.
The last time I did this, it seated fine and it took a click or two to tension (the same chain).

Can anyone tell me if this is correct or do I have an issue with something.
TC GAP.jpeg
 
I took the tensioner arm assembly out and everything looks fine. I should mention that the tensioner spring is 54.5 mm long (free length). If I tighten the two bolts and seat the tensioner (closing the gap), then try to install the spring, I'd have to really crunch the spring into the hole before I could even think about installing the spring-cap bolt.
Something is not right. Possibly, someone has stretched the spring or installed a different one from the stock spring.

I've been told that you typically don't need to push the plunger in when installing a new cam chain. That will be certainly true in this case. Still, there is no way this spring will stuff in without ruining it.

Any thoughts are appreciated.
 
Well, I don't know what to tell you. The bike is back together and runs like a top. Starts instantly with the button.
 
I didn't change anything except for the tension spring.
The blade was like new, so there was no reason to change it. The cam chain (purchased from Taffy the Husaberg guru) had the same number of links as the old chain.

As for any roller chain length in general, you can only add or remove two links as they are a "set". One link has two holes, and the next link has two pins and a side plate. Two links longer and the chain would be way, way too long. Two links shorter and it would never go together. If you don't believe me, take out ONE link and then try to put it together.

As it was, I had to remove the rear tensioner blade to get the new chin to come together for the master-link install - just as it should be.

I just got back from a nice 2-hour ride. The bike starts instantly and runs well.
 
well I have had the same situation but it is with the 2005+ CCTB fitted. it has the banana end compared to the early shark end. CCTB 450 550 2004.jpg
 

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I believe it was the "shark end" but I'm not sure.
You can see the tip of it here
1708981931536.png
 
that's the banana end and explains why your cam chain tensioner needs forcing in.

Taffy
 
Here's a quote from me from the Thumper Forum
"
I will mention that I had to remove the tensioner arm to get the cam chain together on the sprocket. This would only be because the new chain is a straight line between the two sprockets and cannot have a curve.

Installing the guide after the chain is connected tightens the chain slightly as the top of the arm is held at the valve cover, and the bottom is pressed against the inside of the slot in the head casting. I can see it clearly in the opening where the tensioner assembly goes."

---That splains it.
 
I don't suppose that at any time that cover had to be welded back up after a cam chain snapped and the top of the word 'Husaberg' got ripped out?

Taffy
 
Taffey, are you saying my timing chain is going to snap?
(EDIT) I should mention that the guide went into place easily once the master link was installed. I doubt there is much more tension on the chain than there would be with a different guide and the suggested click or two of the tensioner.
 
Last edited:
I also forgot to mention that I found a very similar spring at Ace Hardware - just 30mm long - and it seems to work fine.
 
no, you're fine. when a cam chain snaps it takes out the word "Husaberg" on top of the rocker cover and it snaps the pivot bolt out of the wall too. People then weld the cover up and then when they re-drill the pivot hole they hadn't marked it up ready to be drilled and drill in the wrong place.

Taffy
 

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