Ignition timing problem

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Pedro Daquota

Joined
Jul 31, 2018
Messages
17
Location
Sweden
I have an FE400 1998 that won't start and i'm quite sure it has to do with the timing but how do i change it and what marks am i looking for? And how do i know when the sparkplug sparks without the engine even starting at all?
 
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try and run a 1m fuel line to the bike and keep the tank out of the way.

always put the bike on a paddocxk stand or a scissor lift. always wear MX boots, nothing gives the confidence to kick HARD like an MX boot.

lay the plug on the head in the cap and then kick. you should then see the spark. it may be orange or blue. don't worry about orange as this often improves to blue when they start (at last).

I have a video on my Facebook page about timing a 600. maybe you'll see some advice there. I have always found the 1989-1998 to be completely ****** up.

timing one is like being the serious detectiove officer interviewing the inmates of a mental institution. no logic, no sense.

but good luck!

Taffy
 
Taffy said:
try and run a 1m fuel line to the bike and keep the tank out of the way.

always put the bike on a paddocxk stand or a scissor lift. always wear MX boots, nothing gives the confidence to kick HARD like an MX boot.

lay the plug on the head in the cap and then kick. you should then see the spark. it may be orange or blue. don't worry about orange as this often improves to blue when they start (at last).

I have a video on my Facebook page about timing a 600. maybe you'll see some advice there. I have always found the 1989-1998 to be completely ****** up.

timing one is like being the serious detectiove officer interviewing the inmates of a mental institution. no logic, no sense.

but good luck!

Taffy
Click to expand...

Okay so i'm a bit confused when engine is at tdc where is the marking on the flywheel supposed to be? And how do i know when the sparkplug ignites because i think it's igniting very wrong and if so where and how do i adjust it?
 
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look up 'the dead stop method' on the internet.

there is a small mark on the flywheel that will come to the mark indicated in the photo. But I have never trusted it.

the adjustment is done at the screws I also arrow.

basically, if an engine is easy to kick over and never backfires or stopd you it is too ********. too late to spark.

so get to nthat and start to advance it a bout .25mm at the screws/0.5mm at the perimeter of the stator.

make sure the round slide in the PHM carb is 6-6.5mm off the bottom.

Taffy
 

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Taffy said:
look up 'the dead stop method' on the internet.

there is a small mark on the flywheel that will come to the mark indicated in the photo. But I have never trusted it.

the adjustment is done at the screws I also arrow.

basically, if an engine is easy to kick over and never backfires or stopd you it is too ********. too late to spark.

so get to nthat and start to advance it a bout .25mm at the screws/0.5mm at the perimeter of the stator.

make sure the round slide in the PHM carb is 6-6.5mm off the bottom.

Taffy
Click to expand...

Thanks, this helped me out a lot

I'm quite sure the timing is as ******** as it can go because it never backfires or stops and it's very easy to kick as you said so as soon as i get home i'm gonna try advancing the timing and check the round slide in the carb and see what happens and just a quick question, how much does too big gap in the valve clearance affect the engine?
 
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I removed the tank and discovered that there's one hose that just hangs there but there's no fuel coming out of there so what could it be?

And what do you mean with the round slide in the carb?
 

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Last edited:
the loose pipe
that goes to your inlet port. that activates the pump diaphram....makes it pump!

the advice I give is for the roundslide PHM dell orto and not the earlier square slide VHSB carb.

loose valves are as bad as tight valves when starting. obviously no real damage that is the only difference.

you really must get them right.

Taffy
 
Taffy said:
the loose pipe
that goes to your inlet port. that activates the pump diaphram....makes it pump!

the advice I give is for the roundslide PHM dell orto and not the earlier square slide VHSB carb.

loose valves are as bad as tight valves when starting. obviously no real damage that is the only difference.

you really must get them right.

Taffy
Click to expand...

Thanks, just one more question how do you get the flywheel off after the nut is removed?
And i found Tdc and it seems to be lining up with the mark on the picture you sent
 

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I used to put a narrow shaft in through the plug hole and jam it to one side and let the piston touch it one way and then the other. if you can get them to touch about 20mm left and right (total of 40mm apart) then it is easy to measure the middle. control the flywheel with a T-bar or a stepped ring spanner.

as for removing the flywheel, well you'll need to buy a pulling tool. don't try a two legged puller. youwant something that threads into the middle thread.

I have them for sale.

regards

Taffy
 
Taffy said:
I used to put a narrow shaft in through the plug hole and jam it to one side and let the piston touch it one way and then the other. if you can get them to touch about 20mm left and right (total of 40mm apart) then it is easy to measure the middle. control the flywheel with a T-bar or a stepped ring spanner.

as for removing the flywheel, well you'll need to buy a pulling tool. don't try a two legged puller. youwant something that threads into the middle thread.

I have them for sale.

regards

Taffy
Click to expand...

I discovered that during compression stroke the exhaust valves opens so slightly and releases the compression??? Is that why it's so easy to kick because i think that's not how it's supposed to be.
 
Taffy said:
yes it is!
Click to expand...

So it's supposed to open the exhaust valves like right before ignition? Because then ive got no compression or am i just stupid? I know the decomp does make it easier but should it really open those valves under compression without the decomp?
 
the decomp should lay flat when the engine is running so then it isn't working is it! check my video out on how it functions on my FB page.

regards

Taffy
 
Taffy said:
the decomp should lay flat when the engine is running so then it isn't working is it! check my video out on how it functions on my FB page.

regards

Taffy
Click to expand...
This is what my decomp looks like while not engaged
I don't know what it's supposed to look like when it's "flat"
 

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you have three decomps. a kickstart, amanual and an automatic. it's on your cam. it is THAT that lifted your rocker or it could have been the kickstart. I ask everyone to disconnect their kickstart one. it is no good. it confuses things.

now go look at my FB video of the automatic decomp working.

Taffy
 
Taffy said:
you have three decomps. a kickstart, amanual and an automatic. it's on your cam. it is THAT that lifted your rocker or it could have been the kickstart. I ask everyone to disconnect their kickstart one. it is no good. it confuses things.

now go look at my FB video of the automatic decomp working.

Taffy
Click to expand...
Okay here's the situation i checked the valves just to be sure that they were not the problem but when i checked they looked good then i measured and the clearances were slightly too small so i adjusted them and tried kicking just a few times and guess what, it started! I've tried so many things to make this thing work and finally it does. So thank you for helping me
 
its just that I'm trying to introoduce a rule to our anthropoid apes and it is S-L-O-W going.

make sure you can "morse code" the rocker arms and hear it at the the rear lincese plate. never mind the "i've got 1/6th of a turn" it is 1/6th followed by the second rule.

the thing is, unless they read that other people have found it I may as well be PISSING IN THE WIND.

Taffy
 
Taffy said:
yes it is!
Click to expand...
Hey Taffy when installing the cam and cam chain with the bike at TDC how do you know which way the cam lobes are positioned. I am rebuilding a 98 400fe and there's little info I can find on timing this thing perfectly. I can stick a screw driver in spark plug hole and find TDC but I'm confused on what position the cam and cam lobes should be. Maybe if you have a picture or something showing me the lobe position when putting the cam chain on or if there are marks I am missing. Thank you sir. My phone number is 813-363-8378. I know it's a lot to ask you for your help with my phone number but I'm desperate lol. Everything else has gone perfectly except for where I'm at now with the timing. Thanks man Charlie
 

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