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What kind of cams are they going to be? Am I right assuming that they'll be for racing? I have read good things about 08 cams. I would be interested in something similar that would be good in low and mid rpm.
 
I have finally got hold of o-rings! I did a 2 bar pressure test to make sure the o-ring is in the right location and compressed enough. The o-ring is a tad too large/long for the groove, but if I pack some persistence along with the covers ;-) , I think you can make them stay in the groove too! If not, you can cut 2mm off and superglue the ends back together. Does that work for you?
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All good for me ...I usually fit o-ring with grease to make sure they stay in the grove when pressing them works every time :)
 
Yes that won’t be a problem...even with my fat stubby fingers and diminishing eyesight ! :smilebox:

Damo
 
What kind of cams are they going to be? Am I right assuming that they'll be for racing? I have read good things about 08 cams. I would be interested in something similar that would be good in low and mid rpm.
I'll be doing one set of cams with the same profiles as my existing. Inlet duration 270deg @ 0.050", max lift 13,0mm and LC 102deg ATDC. Exhaust duration 261deg @ 0.050", max lift 12,0mm and LC 106deg BTDC. I do not recall the "08" data. I used the "62" cam when racing SOHC cylinder head.

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I don't have any information about "08" cam. I only read that lots of people liked that one. It refers to cam style or type not production year. Would someone chime in on this if you have spec's on the "08" cam? I've read that it supposed to be good in low and mid rpm.
 
Another part where there seems to be room for improvement, are the valve covers. They are also on the weak side, needs frequently to be removed for checking valve clearance and has a fibre gasket. If such a cover would work with an o-ring, and be milled from a solid piece of aluminium, I guess that might also be of interest?

But first, let´s get these impeller covers completed!
 

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But of course. I would be in. My suggestion is to have Wolf on it and anodized. I would take three sets.
 
Hi Mats,

I'm interested in the improved valve covers. Great idea with the O-rings. I also worked on the valve covers short time ago, with the aim to reroute the engine breather hose for:
  • avoiding engine oil to flow into the carb
  • providing air stream to the outer most inlet and exhaust valve
  • a flat design for easy disassembly

I 3D-printed the parts to testfit. The rear cover needs rework, since I want both hoses to point backwards but still allow access to the allen screws. I can do a test with O-Rings too.

What do you think? Or is it a silly idea? I can provide CAD data as well.

Best regards,

EDE
 

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Re the Oring thing.... sweet as bro.

Re the valve covers..... I dont do bling.
Function over form for me.

So I would of course like a set too please.
 
Hi Mats,

I'm interested in the improved valve covers. Great idea with the O-rings. I also worked on the valve covers short time ago, with the aim to reroute the engine breather hose for:
  • avoiding engine oil to flow into the carb
  • providing air stream to the outer most inlet and exhaust valve
  • a flat design for easy disassembly

I 3D-printed the parts to testfit. The rear cover needs rework, since I want both hoses to point backwards but still allow access to the allen screws. I can do a test with O-Rings too.

What do you think? Or is it a silly idea? I can provide CAD data as well.

Best regards,

EDE
Hallo Edgar!
There can be many explanations for getting an excessive amount of oil from the breather. Is it really that big an issue for you?
Connecting the breather to the airbox is not helping much. The lower air pressure in the air box helps sucking out the air/oil fume. A restrictive/dirty air filter can do that. A separate breather connected directly to the air (not air box), can reduce the oil loss.
If the foam in the breather has become soaked, it doesn't breathe very good, causing a higher velocity on the smaller air flow, which in turn carries the oil better.
Increasing the breather area is generally a good idea, as it lowers the air velocity.
You will need to avoid direct oil splashing on the orifice of the breather stub from inside the engine.
Higher rpms during longer periods, higher compression ratio and worn piston rings also increases blow-by, and carries more oil through the breather.
I have kept the breather connected to the valve cover, but added one through the hole where the starter motor used to be. I'm running 13,5:1, revving +6k all the time with a 680cc. No problem with oil from the breathers (the coffee perculator, according to Bushie). :cool:
 
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New cams have arrived!
Track day on Tuesday! -What I have planned for the weekend? Err...
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I would be in too for valve covers.
if price is right of course :D
and BTW : how do you have solved engine breathing. I have stock and oil foam in my frame really pis* me of. Any better idea how to make that ?
 
I would be in too for valve covers.
if price is right of course :D
and BTW : how do you have solved engine breathing. I have stock and oil foam in my frame really pis* me of. Any better idea how to make that ?
I would plug the hole in the air box (frame) and attach a small can (with foam) to the breather outlet on the valve cover and let it breathe directly to the air.


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Hmm thats not bad ...i had simillar idea with attaching small air filter on breather outlet but wouldn´t it squirt too much oil when it will be directly ? i have one breather outlet (above camchain) pluged with end cap from previous owner with words that it throws too much oil from there I don´t inspect it further.
I think that i just use your idea with can....you know better than me in this :D
Thanks
 
if you run it up high it shouldn't. I had an old YZ426 supermoto set up that way and at first it barely misted any oil out of there. After I had a problem with a coolant pipe, dumped all the coolant on track, and got pretty hot, it misted a bit more oil (to the point that I'd clean it up after each day on the track) but still wasn't too bad. It was run up in front of the gas tank so about as high as you can get, and a decent length too.
 
How large portion Husaberg must the engine contain, to be allowed to be called Husaberg?
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