Valve adjusment Husaberg 450fe 06
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- Joined
- Jul 11, 2016
- Messages
- 29
- Location
- Rawdon, Quebec, Canada
Hi Guys! Thanks for your tips.
I was able to do it with a short Allen et a screw driver.
My actual problem Is to put it dead center. I use a plastic straw and place the cylinder at the top position, exhaust valve were 100% free but I had a little resistance with the intake valve adjustment. So that probably à sign that I wasn't dead center. The head is 100% rebuilt with double spring. I never have the little slack like on the youtube's video.
Are you able to use the 0.12mm shim or your use the 1/6 trick?
Thanks for your help, I never adjust valve before.
Daniel
I was able to do it with a short Allen et a screw driver.
My actual problem Is to put it dead center. I use a plastic straw and place the cylinder at the top position, exhaust valve were 100% free but I had a little resistance with the intake valve adjustment. So that probably à sign that I wasn't dead center. The head is 100% rebuilt with double spring. I never have the little slack like on the youtube's video.
Are you able to use the 0.12mm shim or your use the 1/6 trick?
Thanks for your help, I never adjust valve before.
Daniel
- Joined
- May 21, 2010
- Messages
- 593
- Location
- San Francisco, California
sage advice, ask me how I know.
- Joined
- Nov 20, 2001
- Messages
- 17,028
- Location
- Ely, England
you want the leading edge of the proud bump on the flywheel (fir the ignition to spark) to be level with a line from the middle of the end of the crank and the bottom edge of the screw that is to the left (at 9 o clock). this is true TDC.
Taffy
Taffy
- Joined
- Jul 11, 2016
- Messages
- 29
- Location
- Rawdon, Quebec, Canada
Thanks again for your tips,
I did it again but this time after the intake (in/out) movement. Then move the cylinder up, adjust valve with the 1/6 trick. The bike make some little back fire and stall at high rpm and didn't reatch the third gear.
I didn't see Taffy's recommandation. I notice à white line+ the edge on the ''generator'' flywheel.
If intake valve (in/out) is done, cylinder completely up, what would be the next step?
Should I use a 0.12mm ''shim'' to adjust the valve? If yes, can I use 0.13mm? I may have to bend it.
Thanks!
I did it again but this time after the intake (in/out) movement. Then move the cylinder up, adjust valve with the 1/6 trick. The bike make some little back fire and stall at high rpm and didn't reatch the third gear.
I didn't see Taffy's recommandation. I notice à white line+ the edge on the ''generator'' flywheel.
If intake valve (in/out) is done, cylinder completely up, what would be the next step?
Should I use a 0.12mm ''shim'' to adjust the valve? If yes, can I use 0.13mm? I may have to bend it.
Thanks!
- Joined
- Jul 11, 2016
- Messages
- 29
- Location
- Rawdon, Quebec, Canada
Ahhhh ok! It make more sense now. I was confused with the white paint line that is supposed to be in the middle of the ignition staple (See Image) I was focusing to much on that line.
So I just need to turn it up a few mm and then, YOUR white line will touch the screw hole. That is the Real TDC for that engine, right?
I was able to use a tool with a 0.12mm ''shim'' on one valve and it match perfectly the 1/6 adjusment. No room and no patience for the rest
I'll put my glasses on and ajust it again loll.
So I just need to turn it up a few mm and then, YOUR white line will touch the screw hole. That is the Real TDC for that engine, right?
I was able to use a tool with a 0.12mm ''shim'' on one valve and it match perfectly the 1/6 adjusment. No room and no patience for the rest
I'll put my glasses on and ajust it again loll.
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