SEM ICU10 + ingition colors??

Husaberg

Help Support Husaberg:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
mxgekko

mxgekko

Joined
Feb 6, 2018
Messages
16
Location
Holland
Hi guys!

I'm from holland so sorry in advance for my english:)

i bought my first Husaberg FE 650 2004. It was a half finished project of someone so i am walking in to some trouble now..

I am searching the internet and asking people for days now without any result so here is my post..

I cant find anything about what color is what of my ICU10, neither of the cables of my ignition ( cables from the engine), i think i tried eveything and it still wont start.. nor does my sparkplug sparks. i think the problem is in the cables that they are not matching.

Can someone here please tell me what color is what and maybe which to connect with..?

Attachments added

Greetz Niels
 

Attachments

  • 20180206_131048.jpg
    20180206_131048.jpg
    77.2 KB
  • 20180205_152724.jpg
    20180205_152724.jpg
    76 KB
2004 came the Kokusan ignition so you have an 2003 or earlier.
 

Attachments

  • 2003.JPG
    2003.JPG
    40.2 KB
  • färgkod.JPG
    färgkod.JPG
    14.1 KB
Last edited:
Jampe, thanks for responding!
i think you are right, the colors do match from my generator! But the regulator doesn't have the colors like on the diagram.

I think my ignition/engine is from 2003 or before and my "cable tree" maybe newer.

only 1 of 2 yellow of the generator is not connected now, the other yellow and the other colors i think i found a connection for.

First time i'm dealing with electric on a bike, getting a little crazy
Want to see that the electric works, than i will finish the bike
 

Attachments

  • husa.jpg
    husa.jpg
    94.2 KB
wires

Hello MX. Welcome and keep calm. There is nothing easy about the mess of wires on your `03. The quality of our Husabergs is very high. That is what makes the cheap wiring work so annoying. But, just pick away at it. It will run again.
Start by exposing as much wiring as possible. Tug on every single wire at the cheap plug-ins. Lots are broken or loose. Replace the plug cap with correct resistor item, along with the plug. Heat range right? Check every wire from the top down for continuity. Check every wire for correct routing and current path. Often they are installed wrong. Don't trust the wire colour coding, go by a good diagram. Does yours use a key? The wires on the back of the bar controls like to fall off and get put back wrong. Expect the start button to stop working, then stick on. File every contact point, then reinstall tight. Check your batt, you need a 1 amp charger. While in there, change any tiny or damaged wire with real auto wire, in the correct colour. Remove any stupid add-on items, Husaberg electrics can't handle anything different.
That should do it. Clear your calendar until about June and get to work. You will need all that time and more. Good luck, L
 
Big thanks to you guys!

i will check every plug in, wire and were its going. Replace when needed.

What do you mean with:
- Replace the plug cap with correct resistor item, along with the plug. Heat range right?
- Expect the start button to stop working, then stick on.

Mine does not have a key, i do want one because i will ride and park in city's so i will need one. But first want to have the bike running before putting in extra things.
This weekend i will go to get at it again, learning fast and a lot this way.


i'll keep this topic updated
 
Hi mxgekko,
I checked your CDI unit number and it matches with a FE550 2002-2003 (see the parts catalog). The bike should work with it, but I don't know about the ignition advance - maybe it's different for the 650 models. I'm sure there's somebody here in the forum who knows that stuff better.

About your wires:

Those wires come from your generator. They should be connected the following way:
  • red --> to CDI module (your ICU 10)
  • green --> to CDI module (your ICU 10)
  • black --> to CDI (your ICU 10)
  • blue --> ground contact star ring (below frame/above cylinder head)
  • yellow --> to regulator/rectifier
  • yellow --> connected to a red cable, which powers the headlights

You'll find the ground contact star ring at the bottomside of the square frame tube. Usually it's mounted on top of the regulator.

To make things easier for you, I attached a wiring diagram with colors I made a time ago.

Before starting check your ignition timing and be careful with the kickstarter :D

Regards,
Ede
 

Attachments

  • Wiring-Diagram-FE-FS-Electrical-Starter-Models-with-Turn-Signals.pdf
    35.7 KB
I have lots of videos about ignition timing on my facebook page Gekko.

all you need is for the red, green and black wres to be connected and the orange to be dangling from the coil and NOT earthing as it is your kill wire.

on the '03 the two yellows went to the reg/rec and the blue to earth.

check the readings on your stator.
green to black is 165red to black always goes wrong and is 2,750 or so.

regards

Taffy
 
Taffy said:
I have lots of videos about ignition timing on my facebook page Gekko.

all you need is for the red, green and black wres to be connected and the orange to be dangling from the coil and NOT earthing as it is your kill wire.

on the '03 the two yellows went to the reg/rec and the blue to earth.

check the readings on your stator.
green to black is 165 red to black always goes wrong and is 2,750 or so.

Taffy
Click to expand...

Thanks Taffy! I checked out your vids, and will use them when i have to set the ignition timing for sure.

Can you explain what you mean with:
green to black is 165 red to black always goes wrong and is 2,750 or so
?

What kind of unit are the numbers and where can i see them? i can't find anything about it?
 
Last edited:
A little update/question post:eek:

Still haven't got the wiring good but when we were working on it, the electric starter was starting but the sound wasn't good like it made full rounds if you get i mean:p.
The kickstarter wasn't coming back from itself and without a plug in the engine it still needed very much power to get it down, it didn't feel good so disassembled the engine and removed the big lid behind the kickstarter to see whats going on.
What stood out was when i cut through the tyrep (see picture) that was holding the decrompressing lever down (seller of the bike said i needed to stay that way), the kickstarter was feeling normal again when i pushed it down.

So a few questions :
- Does the lever need to be held down with a tyrep? My Thought is to just connect it
with a cable to the decompression lever on the cilinder head upper part..

- Does it matter that the kickstarter doesnt come back via a spring? i think it is missing but if i want to place one i need to dissemble the clutch what i think is not that easy work.

- You guys name rectifier/regulator and rectifier but are those 2 different parts? if so, does anyone have a picture of the difference so i can see (i dont get it with the wiring diagramm)

- The magnet in my flywheel is damaged, is that a problem? see picture

- What is the difference of the 2 yellow wires coming out of my generator? i tried to follow the wires but cant see where they are going (see picture).



Found some readings on parts:
Cilinder head upper part: 200228
Flywheel: 101 801 05 C2
Generator: C4
on the lid Lid on right side under the oil sight glass: 220 070

Big thanks in advance
 

Attachments

  • 20180210_142141.jpg
    20180210_142141.jpg
    86.5 KB
  • 20180210_142410.jpg
    20180210_142410.jpg
    85.6 KB
  • 20180211_235332.jpg
    20180211_235332.jpg
    86.5 KB
  • 20180211_235405.jpg
    20180211_235405.jpg
    87.4 KB
  • 20180211_235438.jpg
    20180211_235438.jpg
    82 KB
too many questions!

flywheel magnets loose. they last many years like that so don't worry! loctite also make a special 'magnet glue' called 326.

someone has changed the red wire to a square female. it should have been a round female still. why?

the two yellows are the same. it doesn't matter.

the 2750 and the 165 are the ohms reading you should get with a multimeter going between the green and black and then the res and black.

I always remove the kistart and manual decomps and do a proper job of getting the camshaft AUTO decomp working.

Taffy
 
Hi,

I attached a picture where you can see what the wiring diagram means with:
  • regulator/rectifier
  • regulator
  • ground contact star ring

You can also count the number of contact pins to figure it out.

Regards,
Ede
 

Attachments

  • Regulator-Rectifier_small_text.jpg
    Regulator-Rectifier_small_text.jpg
    84.7 KB
thanks guys! sorry for all the questions but you are really helping me with it!!

Taffy:
About why they changed the red to a square one i don't know, it does fit with the square red one on the ignition where it should.

good thing that there is no difference in the yellow wires, i only have 1 yellow one coming from my regulator/rectifier so 1 will remain dangling from the generator.

i will measure the stator, hope it matches the values you posted.

About the decrompression lever still don't understand it, is it best to tyrep it like it was or install it with a cable?
(those are the 2 options i know)


Ede:
When i look at the picture, i think i dont have a regulator or the ground contact star ring.

The only have the ignition OCU10 and a regulator/rectifier SH721AA between the buttons on the steer and the stator, thats the reason i can't figure out the wiring diagramm to connect it the right way.

the ground contact star ring is that really needed? i can use a bare/blank steel piece on the frame to connect the ground wires on too right??
 
just get rid of the kickstart and the manual levers. just use the auto decomp on the camshaft. out of sight and automatic.

this is the best way.

taffy
 
Something We should all do is to check all wiring for voltages AC DC and ohms write it down for the future. And yes I know this might not help you if ignition system is different from the original but it won’t hurt at least it will give a starting point. Of coarse do it before You have a problem. Life will be easier. If Your lazy then good luck to You. Also if You’re selling the bike with that paper work I’d think it would be a plus......
 
Last edited:
mxgekko:
You don't need the ground contact star ring - when your bike is somehow a 2003/2002/2001 model, I thought it will be there. Just mentioned it to help you. You can connect to ground they way you like - it just needs to work :D

Your rectifier seems to be a newer model. The connector is different. Research and make sure it can handle the power of your electrical system (I guess it's able to handle the old SEM-unit). Change the connector if you don't like it - it's up to you.
 

Similar threads

S
Sem icu10
Replies
5
Views
1K
jojo09
J
B
2002 501 FE - Value
Replies
1
Views
95
Goose916
Goose916
B
For Sale 2004 501
Replies
1
Views
94
BBRacing
B
B
2010 FE390 Fork Spring Length?
Replies
1
Views
319
Taffy
Taffy
C
1998 husaberg 400 gas tank setup with mikuni lift pump.
Replies
5
Views
765
Charper90
C

Register CTA

Register on Husaberg Forum! This sidebar will go away, and you will see fewer ads.

Recent Discussions

Recent Discussions

Back
Top