Stripping / repainting clutch and stator covers - 2008 FE550

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C

canadius

Joined
Mar 25, 2017
Messages
99
Location
Vancouver, BC
Hello,

As part of the winter refurb, I'm wondering about how to freshen up the appearance of my two side covers. The stator's not bad, but the water pump and clutch covers are peeling the paint badly.

What I'd really like is some form of reinforcement - for my DRZ and 690, Thumpertalk and AdventureSpec respectively, sold really smart metal case guards. I've searched everywhere and can't find such products for this bike.

So assuming that such don't exist, what's the best way of stripping and repainting? I've seen and read about strippers like aviation remover, and then enamel primers and paints. They seem to look ok, but are not for 'Berg (or even KTM) motors, so don't want to mess with the metallurgy of these motors.

yes, I could order a new set of covers, but are there other options to freshen up my own?

thanks,

cm
 

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diesel? well, well!! well!!!!

you live and learn!

we sure could do with a feature on all the covers, especially the pre 2004s.

regards

Taffy
 
I cant guarantee as I'm not familiar with the paint but it is so cheap it's worth a try! I do know that diesel remove the paint from kalashnikovs and we also use it as a last resort solver at job (dirt, rust, corrosion, gunk, grease)
 
Use paint stripper Try Lordco
 

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U can try diesel, might work on Russian quality paint. Its cheap so no big loss. Otherwise try paint stripper just go to body shop.supply and ask for help there. U probably need professional stuff. Rubber gloves wont protect your hands!!! Not for long. Don't ask me how I know. Best paint, probably powdercoat. Again, anything good is more money and longer lasting paint. Cheap is just soft to scratches.
 
the men to know might be Husabutt and Berger who do car bodywork for their living....

regards

taffy
 
The cases appear to be powder coated which as you probably know is pretty tough. Chemical paint Stripper may not budge it. Powdercoat can be burned off but that probably is not a good for the alloy cases. Blasting or wire brushing (on a drill) would probably work.

Soaking in diesel may not be aggressive enough. I have successfully removed black cylinder paint on Jap bike cylinders by soaking in lacquer thinner for a week. It then peels or blows off with compressed air. If you do try diesel you will need to do a final solvent wipe down (grease and wax remover) before painting to remove any trace of oil.

The paint could also be sanded off by hand. I would start with a fresh sheet 400 wet and just let it somewhat wear out for finish sanding.

The original Husaberg paint is silver or gray but is non-metallic. Silver paint is usually metallic. SEM Products makes a direct to metal gray spray bomb that duplicates e-coat which is how new unpainted autobody sheet metal is coated from the factory. It is not glossy.

A powdecoater in your area could probably come close the factory color although you may have to remove the paint (prep it) yourself.

https://www.semproducts.com/product/ez-coattm/coattm
 
If its Powder coat apparently Benco B17 will remove it. If its paint then paint stripper.
And depending on how bad they are flaking , yes you may as well strip, if not you could sand them. 400 wetsand is fine.
Powder coating is best for many parts for durability but for me as an Auto Painter I would paint them as I have access to the materials.
You would want to scotch brite with soap and water any bare Magnesium. Dry very well and with sterile painters cloths apply wax and grease remover with one and dry well with another.
Tack and apply 1 to 2 coats of a wet on wet epoxy primer, wait for the window to apply ( usually 30 min) and apply 2 coats quality auto paint.

That would be my way to do it anyway..

pollo
 
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One point that didn't get addressed properly is that you do not have to completely remove the old paint if you don't want to. As long as it adheres well and is thoroughly sanded it can be refinished.

Just completely sand the old finish with 400 grit wet sandpaper (use water and a drop of liquid dish soap) and feather edge (smooth out) all of the scrapes, chips and imperfections.

I used automotive paint on my 97 600 frame and the original powdercoat was so tough I had to start with 220 grit wet in order to break the coat open and smooth it flat.

It took a few weekends and copious amounts of beer but I got it done.
 
Thats true Husabutt. I thought about sanding down and painting mine another color. Black or Blue.
If getting into bare areas while sanding from a chipped up cover then primer would be needed before paint. And depending on the quality of appearance desired. If there are any ridges of topcoat where it meets the magnesium the primer applied could be sanded for perfection before paint. Sometimes you dont see it at first but when sanding into bare areas later it can be seen as a ring around it.
 
pollo said:
Thats true Husabutt. I thought about sanding down and painting mine another color. Black or Blue.
If getting into bare areas while sanding from a chipped up cover then primer would be needed before paint. And depending on the quality of appearance desired. If there are any ridges of topcoat where it meets the magnesium the primer applied could be sanded for perfection before paint. Sometimes you dont see it at first but when sanding into bare areas later it can be seen as a ring around it.
Click to expand...

Now your getting picky. I suppose a Husaberg deserves the best :)
 
husabutt said:
Now your getting picky. I suppose a Husaberg deserves the best :)
Click to expand...

Sure, why not. Our Husabergs. And they are small parts anyway..
As for the Benko B17. Well honestly I just googled that today because I never have tried to chemically strip powder coat.
 
Best idea is to use copious amount of beer. It's gonna look great. That evening.... Every job is better with beer.
 

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