The technical adventures of Dr_C

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Vibrations are still killing! Last practise the rear shock lower fork, broke in two. I came over a crest without the weight of the rear wheel and had a really good look at my front mud guard... Fortunately I stayed on my wheels but the motorcycle looked like a dragbike, all of a sudden.

Back to the workshop to try to rebalance the crank. Hurts me to drill out heavy metal! Boo-hoo! Expensive chips! I didn't need to have this margin with 20mm diameter inserts. 18mm would have been enough. Anyhow, now the BF will finally be 0,62!
Now assembly and test start
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spanner said:
At what stage do you think you will return to using the counter balancer?
Click to expand...
Not sure.
If this doesn't work out, I may have a go with mounting the front end of the engine in rubbers or making a CB of the water pump shaft or quit with Supermono. Going back to the OEM CB means loosing the spherical roller bearing mains. I will NOT return to OEM size mains and the 5-6h life length they had. We'll see!

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One Öhlin OEM lower rear shock mount broke and one homemade broke. Both from 7075 alu. Now high tensile steel... I've broken two rear shock piston shaft aswell. A new CB is next upcoming design.
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Looking good dr-c !

Tony foale "if aluminium was any good they would make steel out of it "

Ktm rfs balancer ?
 
Pre-2001 engine with balancer forward of crankshaft and main bearings closer together maybe?

I remember being enamored with the idea of the counter-rotating counter balancer on the '01 to '08 engines. These days I like the old ones with no balancer, no e-start, and no oil pump. Keep it simple and change the oil A LOT.
 
thorgan said:
Pre-2001 engine with balancer forward of crankshaft and main bearings closer together maybe?

I remember being enamored with the idea of the counter-rotating counter balancer on the '01 to '08 engines. These days I like the old ones with no balancer, no e-start, and no oil pump. Keep it simple and change the oil A LOT.
Click to expand...
The spherical roller mains are already located directly against the crank webs.

That was the vision of mr Lars Nilsson (Folan), although being very persistent, even he had to let go of that idea!

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Oh joy!
Had a blast on a trackday yesterday which myself and 7 compadres organised! 6 sessions in a modest pace, on my 888, as an instructor, but 2 full sessions without any problems on my supermono! 16 laps with a big smile! Yesss!
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No problems?!?
You must be doing something wrong!! Tear it apart and check whats happening, thats not normal.

:)
 
jon andersson said:
I suggest you try to squeeze out a few more hp now.
Click to expand...
Yes, that seems like the obvious way to go, doesn't it... :p

It is too difficult to control the throttle from 0 to 10%. The power is coming on too strong instantly. The oval shaped throttle from the Ducati 1198 opens a lot the first 3-5 degrees. I've got a throttle handle with a progressive cam profile, but I may need to manufacture a larger wire drum for the throttle body, and/or reduce the ignition advance in that region of the ignition map.
 
I'm trying to pay tribute to Swedish innovators, designers and engineers, whenever possible. For instance, this home made hydraulic press, is based on the cylinder pushing out the nose wheel on a Saab J37 Viggen (fighter jet). New o-rings to come!
 

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Why on God's green earth didn't I have a tube notcher when I manufactured the supermono chassie?

I'm soon running out of excuses not to start up my café racer build...
 

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Last edited:
Tube cutter Simple nice and cheap and a time saver. If You can weld ? Not talking about You Dr_C on welding
 
I thought two practise sessions without problems was too good to be true! Well, if some internals in the first muffler are cracking, is no big deal!
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Last edited:
Dr_C said:
I thought two practise sessions without problems was too good to be true! Well, if some internals in the first muffler are cracking, is no big deal!

brittle failure at the heat affected zone-
possible causes -
water quench, (snow quench where you are?)
use of old rods or rod that is not suitable ? sometimes pre conditioning in an oven can help (say 180-210 F) (although that looks MIG not ARC so wire type)
Sometimes known as hydrogen embrittlement - stick it in the oven after welding at 450F for an hour
Circular work can also need pre heat to avoid inbuilt stress - think coefficient of thermal expansion applied to the circumference and subsequent shrinkage impact to diameter
Click to expand...
 
Last edited:
383hq said:
brittle failure at the heat affected zone-
possible causes -
water quench, (snow quench where you are?)
use of old rods or rod that is not suitable ? sometimes pre conditioning in an oven can help (say 180-210 F) (although that looks MIG not ARC so wire type)
Sometimes known as hydrogen embrittlement - stick it in the oven after welding at 450F for an hour
Circular work can also need pre heat to avoid inbuilt stress - think coefficient of thermal expansion applied to the circumference and subsequent shrinkage impact to diameter
Click to expand...

Thank you for the interest!
This is TIG-welded and as you can see on the previous photo, I have avoided welding the whole way around, to avoid possible shrink tension.
This muffler is the first of two in this system, so there are some stresses added to the design from the outlet of the muffler too. The engine vibrates a lot (I have already cracked two rear shock shafts and two lower attachment forks), so I put my my money on fatigue cracking, which of course will show in the HAZ. Initially I put some reinforcements between the outled end cap and the perforated tube (see photo), but I didn't think it would be necessary to do the same between the inlet chamber and the perforated tube. I was calculating on that the chamber would guide the carbon fibre canister enough. With the vibrations at hand, this turned out to be a bad decision. Now I have welded similar reinforcements to the inlet side, and the muffler is complete again!

Have a nice weekend!
 

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The café racer project has finally begun to materialise! First out is the steering head.
 

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