Husaberg 501/2000 won't start, kicks back

Povas92 · May 25, 2017

Hi everyone,
i don't know any history on this bike, i bought it as a none runner.
Done some basic checks, compression, spark etc. Washed and cleaned the carb set it up by default according to the manual i found here. First attempt in kicking it ended up with braking the kickstarter shaft. Fixed it and second attempt ended in braking my foot. The engine back fires so much it's unbelievable. I adjusted the ignition to the most ********, in hopes that it would lessen the precombustion. Took the bike on a hill to push start it and it tried firing but with horrible noises and everytime it would try to start the wheel would try to rotate in reverse. The engine wants to run in revere??
Can the ignition be too advanced? I checked the woodruff key, seemed to be in locaton. Can it be a faulty ignition coil/module? Also noticed the engine is hard to turn while piston is travelling downwards. Could it be valve timing issue?
Thank you in advance

Taffy · May 25, 2017

make sure a 6.5mm drill bit shank can go under the carb slide. set the ignition to 2/3rds ********. try yet another new plug. check for a wet plug. if wet then get another plug!

tow it behind a car in 4th gear. use a footrest and be careful!

taffy

husabutt · May 25, 2017

The valve timing is a little tricky on these gen 1 motors. I would venture a guess that someone timed in a couple of teeth off.

Povas92 · Jun 19, 2017

Been a bit busy lately, but found some time and thought i'll remove the engine and have a look what's inside, since i completely know nothing about it's history. Plus i wanted the engine having a clean look since it was all assembled with some ugly red silicone and also leaking oil.
Removed the top of the head, noticed the camshaft knuckles were facing upwards on TDC
Also the piston seems like it was seized at some point, thought the cylinder looks ok.
Next step: wait for the new head gasket to arrive, get some new matching bolts. Do a clean assembly.
Any tips on timing the chain?

tourist · Jun 20, 2017

Sending good vibes

I think this is the 501 I was very tempted to buy but I think it's in much better hands now.

Povas92 · Jun 26, 2017

So, finally got the new headgasket and more importantly found the time and strenght to start assembling the top end. Installed the cylinder and the head, torqued it up and then installed the valve timing and i set the cam lobes facing down. Haven't yet installed the rocker arm body. But now i was reading through the forum and some people say the lobes have to face upwards at TDC.
Before i took it apart i think they were facing up and i thought maybe that's the problem why it didn't start and broke the kickstarter and after reading the forun i got paranoid that my ignition stator is fried eggs. Any thoughts gentlemen?

thorgan · Jun 26, 2017

Someone chime in if I'm wrong but whenever I've put one of these together, I set the piston at TDC, bolted the head on, set the cam in with the lobes facing down and the cam retainer bolts aligned with the top surface of the head once the chain was in place. This is now TDC on the compression stroke...as opposed to TDC on the exhaust stroke where both the intake and exhaust valves are open (lobes facing up). On this point it really doesn't matter because (and here's where I could be wrong) the ignition fires at both the intake and the exhaust stroke. It's just easier to bolt the cam cover down when you're not fighting to compress valve springs.

Povas92 · Jun 29, 2017

Hi all! So the bike is coming together as it should and while i´m at it i can´t stop but to think about the starting of it. Generally i´m concerned about the kickstarter breaking of again due to the miss firing. I was reading through the forum and got an impression that a faulty stator might be a problem. So i was thinking about a plan b and buying a KTM conversion.

I wasn´t sure which stator to buy as there are two types ST5500L and ST5410L; which one will fit the ignition coil cdi the bike has now. Currently it´s a TM14-05 101 890 00 with a pre 99 (according to resistance measurments) stator. Also i noticed the threaded needle in the HT exit is loose. The one you screw HT wire on. So i guess i´ll need a new cdi too. Anyone know what matches what?

Anyways really want to hear it make a noise so going to tow start it, wish me luck guys!

Taffy · Jun 30, 2017

I may be able to fix thatb coil, certainly the later coils i can. up to you. I haven't found another coil that will do.

if the stator shows the right resistence you must continue with it.

****** the ignition nearly to the end of its adjustment slots and try from there. ******** is good.

the dell orto carb is a major problem with all Husabergs that have them. they wear out important components.

good luck

Taffy

Povas92 · Jul 7, 2017

Hi all,
So last weekend barely got the bike to run. Problem No1 the new headgasket i fitted leaked water just as started filling the radiator. Problem No2 the carb started overflowing with fuel, i fixed that promptly and towed the bike even though it was leaking water. (i first checked if the water doesn't flow in to the cilinder)
As soon as the engine makes a pop it stalls the rear wheel so a technique of clutch and decompress lever was combined- towing with the decomp on, decomp off few strokes and targeting the clutch to leave the engine free so it would overturn. After vigorous attempts i succeeded and the engine started. It didn't run good, feels like poor ignition and AF mixture.
Anyways some progress has been done, i promptly removed the engine to fix the leaking head and found the exhaust pipes full of water and petrol so apparently water did enter the cilinder.
While the engine is waiting i already fixed the Ignition coil.
Somehow still can't shake off the idea that the ignition is too advanced. I've got a second engine in a box and it's an older type of engine with the stator being mounted on the block. What if my ignition came from the old engine? Are they identical?

webmonstro · Jul 7, 2017

If i'm not mistaken , the red coil/cdi is for early engines only . If yours has the stator on the cover you should be using a black coil/cdi . The timing is different and that can be your problem

Povas92 · Jul 7, 2017

webmonstro said:
If i'm not mistaken , the red coil/cdi is for early engines only . If yours has the stator on the cover you should be using a black coil/cdi . The timing is different and that can be your problem

Thanks for the reply, but how do i know whether my stator originally came on the engine or on the cover?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Taffy · Jul 8, 2017

he's right, you should have a black coil/ignition module. so that just leaves which stator you have now?

the earlier stator on the back, you can see all the spools of copper wire on each coil-aabout 14 of them. on the later one that you should have it will be just black plastic on the back.

the reading for the earlier one is 1700 ohms red to black and on the later one it is 2,700 ohms.

regards

Taffy

Povas92 · Jul 8, 2017

Taffy said:
he's right, you should have a black coil/ignition module. so that just leaves which stator you have now?

the earlier stator on the back, you can see all the spools of copper wire on each coil-aabout 14 of them. on the later one that you should have it will be just black plastic on the back.

the reading for the earlier one is 1700 ohms red to black and on the later one it is 2,700 ohms.

regards

Taffy

Thanks for the reply, i don't remember if the spools were visible, but i do know that Red/Black resistance is 1700Ohm which means it's an older type stator. Now correct me if i'm wrong;

Older type stator > Black coil
New type stator > Red coil

If this is correct, anyone have a black coil for sale? :happy:

Taffy · Jul 8, 2017

I can do that for you AND take the red coil in in exchange.

if you had 1,700 ohms it means if you flicked it over you would see faintly through the surface the copper wiring and the coils under the 'skin'.

so now you need a stator as well! again, we have electrex here and reconditioned SEM stators. whilst the red coil and statpr were meant to work together, they would hve been UNDER the flywheel and thus the magnets would be the 'other way around'.

the fact is, you MUST have the correct flywheel for the later set up. I have tried to fit an early flywheel on a later bike and the taper on the shaft or in the flywheel was wrong. so best to just swop out the red coil and stator for what you want.

regards

Taffy

Povas92 · Jul 8, 2017

So basically my stator should have 2700 ohms between red and black and it shold be in pair with a black CDI coil. It all makes sense now!
I was reading about HPI ignitions i think they have 2 stators and one coil for FC501
What are your thoughts and experiences about HPI?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Taffy · Jul 8, 2017

I don't have any....

I don't go looking for problems when I can walk around them.

Taffy

Povas92 · Jul 8, 2017

Taffy said:
I can do that for you AND take the red coil in in exchange.

if you had 1,700 ohms it means if you flicked it over you would see faintly through the surface the copper wiring and the coils under the 'skin'.

so now you need a stator as well! again, we have electrex here and reconditioned SEM stators. whilst the red coil and statpr were meant to work together, they would hve been UNDER the flywheel and thus the magnets would be the 'other way around'.

the fact is, you MUST have the correct flywheel for the later set up. I have tried to fit an early flywheel on a later bike and the taper on the shaft or in the flywheel was wrong. so best to just swop out the red coil and stator for what you want.

regards

Taffy

Old type stator

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Povas92 · Jul 15, 2017

Greetings all,

I bought the Hpi ignition got it delivered. Could barely contain myself the rest of the day.
Installed it and set it as Taffy said in other threads, all the way to ****** and a millimetre back. I checked the spark and it was good strong spark.
I was so sure the bike will fire with no need to tow it. One kick, two kick and bam! Of goes my kickstarter pedal. I was shocked and furious. Got the tow rope up the jeep and the bike started. Obviously the ignition is too advanced. It dies on idle but it runs on middle range ok'ish.
I did get to ride it abit and i was fascinated by the power even though it's far from good performance.

Am i missing something? Could it be a cdi problem?
Could it be some wrong flywheel? I'm lost..
Currently i have the red coil TM14-05 and my flywheel is 101.801.05

Thank you,
Povas

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Povas92 · Jul 15, 2017

Update:
I removed the 3 bolts securing the cover, rotated the cover clock wise about 30ish degrees, and it runs like a charm, i even drove it and it made me grin like that boy on the back of the bus with his face pushed to the window [emoji51]

I forgot my multimeter, i wanted to measure the resistances on the new stator. It's suspicious as why is it so advanced on the regular position. [emoji848]

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Husaberg 501/2000 won't start, kicks back

Help Support Husaberg:

Povas92

Attachments

Taffy

husabutt

Povas92

Attachments

tourist

Povas92

thorgan

Povas92

Taffy

Povas92

webmonstro

Povas92

Taffy

Povas92

Taffy

Povas92

Taffy

Povas92

Povas92

Povas92

Similar threads

Register CTA

Recent Discussions

Recent Discussions