Dellorto 38 CD1 jet - FE600 -94

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K

Khristi

Joined
Jan 10, 2017
Messages
64
Location
Sweden - Sjömarken
My 94 600 is hard to start so I thought I should try and install a CD1 jet inside the pilot since my bike didn't have this.

If you have the CD1 jet inside the pilot jet, how far in should it go? All the way until it seats?

My bike is kickstart only.
 
OK. So now the bike starts quite easy when it's cold.

1. idle screw out one turn
2. fuel screw out two turns
3. choke on
4. kick it from compression stroke (where the kick lever wont move without decomp) two-three times until I get an exhaust boom.
5. kick it from TDC (exhaust valves closed/intake just about to open) starts on one kick.

When fiddling with the idle and fuel screws after this I got a few exhaust bangs while running, especially if I revved it up and let got of the throttle. When engine is stopped it can't be started again until cold (procedure 1-5 again).

Any ideas?
 
I have a 600fe 95 and had a really hard time to start it the first years, weather, temp, cold, warm been through hell.
But I learned the bike over the years.
Now it starts on the third kick, no shoke, no bangs just solid idle.
I recognize the sitution with the bike warm, in woods with a stop and youre stuck for some time trying to start it, I was in that sitution a month a go, impossible to start and i switched sparkplug in the woods and it started at once.
My sparkplugs goes black no mather youre in the woods or the highway, mine is consuming a lot of oil so that is probably my problem but I think I solved it when I dropped my needle one level(force it to go leaner).
I think youre bike is getting to much fuel, how much oil does it consume, is your sparkplug dry and very black?
Do a engine ventilation outside the airintake, the original creates oilmist in the airintake that could make the bike hard to start when its really warm.
Mine had a little space inside the frame (aircanal) were the oil were traped but if you in theory were doing an effective braking a couple of centiliter oil were sucked in carborator and will stop the engine on low revs for sure, must happend to me several times, without me knowing the problem.
dangerously low idle in step downhill also the original engine ventilations fault in my case.
 
I don't have any smaller pilot jets around so I'll try to drop the needle an disconnect the oil vent. I really haven't used the bike alot so I don't know about oil consumption. But the compression rings, oil rings, piston and cylinder were all way within spec.
 
I don't agree that you must drop the PJ. it could be but at 2 turns out on the PS i think the PJ is too small?

what size is it?

is it a square slide or a round slide?

taffy
 
Check the needle jet , and see if the hole is oval , it was on mine and made the mix unstable it would seem rich all the time. Even in the low rpm and starting . These carbs are very sensitive to the needle 's position
 
Pilot is 52, needle K32, emulsion tube AB265, choke jet 45 and main jet 180, round slide no 50.

I'll checkk if the emulsion tube hole is oval.
 
The cam timing is set with the flywheel TDC mark against the bolt hole mark in the cover. I have confirmed with an indicator dial that this is true TDC. The cam is then set with the cam sproket bolt holes at three and nine which put the lobes in eleven and one position. Cam chain stretched on the pull side. When I pull the engine around it comes back to the same position.

But when I fit the rocker cover and let the engine come to natural rest in TDC with the lobes pointing up, exhaust valves about o close, intake valves about to open, the rotor TDC mark is actually like five mm left of the mark in the cover.

Should I try retarding the cam one tooth? Would this possibly explain the exhaust booms and the flames out of the muffler when I rev it and let go of the throttle? Would this cause hard cold starting and impossible to start when hot?
 
Khristi said:
But when I fit the rocker cover and let the engine come to natural rest in TDC with the lobes pointing up, exhaust valves about to close, intake valves about to open, the rotor TDC mark is actually like five mm left of the mark in the cover.
Click to expand...

this has nothing to do with it/ this is the valve overlap stroke and you shouldn't be playing around here?

you set the valve timing with the lobes up, THEN ROTATE THE CRANK 360d so the lobes are down, THEN you do your valve clearances.

so where and why are you playing around on the exhaust stroke?

taffy
 
Should be fine on the cam timing then. I'm just grabbing after anything right now, hard to start, impossible when hot. Lots of exhaust boom when letting off the throttle after revving it. But it sedm to respond well on throttle when revving up.
 
One of my big performence improvments was to go from original sparkplug c8e to:
c7e, the bike improved in every way, some would say it could damage the engine with a warmer sparkplug if youre unlucky.
Im no pro but im not let the engine rest, the engine alive today is prof enough that it works in my case.
Dont go for the cr7e, didnt work for me.
 
Valve clearances are done at TDC with the lobes facing down (rockers relaxed). I get a 0.1 feeler in easy and I can pry in a 0.15 so that should be ok.
 
Question on gaskets: how am I supposed to seal between the head and the exhaust pipes? The parts manual shows no gasket here. The same for the pipes to the muffler connection.

Second question specific for Taffy: Does your head gasket require a higher cylinder/head bolt torque? The fire ring seem to be a bit harder than on the one that was on my bike before. I have torqued to 44 Nm but have a tiny coolant leak at the head gasket. It also seems like the water finds it way to the cam chain channel and the oil goes milkshake but the level drop in the radiator is not noticable, I can only see a drop on the floor once in a while.
 
OK, Now I'm totally sure it's fuel related. Everything else is double, triple, quadrouple checked.

Piston within spec measured with micrometer. Rings within spec, measured with feeler gauge in cylinder. Cylinder wall looks like new and within spec, measured with bore dial. Compression is good, it's not possible to kick around without decomp. New exhaust valves lapped in and fluid tested. Old intake valves lapped in and fluid tested. Valve clearences set to 0,1 mm at TDC with rockers relaxed (lobes down).

New cam chain. Cam timing set, lobes pointing up at TDC perfect aligned with TDC mark on flywheel. TDC mark checked with dial thru spark plug hole.

Timing set with pin thru flywheel in to stator. Aligned with flywheel mark 34 mm ahead of tdc (33-34 degrees advance).

New coil (previous owner). New spark plug CR8EIX Iridium. Strong spark even at low speed kicking.

Carburetor. All jets inspected and clean. No ovality in needle jet. Have tried with and without CD1 jet (didn't have it from start), lean popping/flames out the exhaust on deceleration with CD1 installed, none og this without CD1. Floats and float height OK. Idle screw one turn out from bottom (idles high when it starts). Fuel screw two turns out from bottom (seem to be smoothest idle when it starts and choke is off. New intake rubber, no leaks.

Bike is still hard to start. I have found a method that work when the engine is cold and with choke. When the engine is warm it doesn't ignite at all when kicking. If I don't turn it off it will run good with no misfires when warm so I don't think it's got anything to do with overheated coil or stator.
 

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Last edited:
Hi Khristi

You have done most anything you can do ... you are ready to write a book on how to prepare old bergs to start :D:D

If I understood correctly, you are saying that the bike when hot and with the choke on, it doesn't pop ? If that is the case you are obviously lean on the carb.

I haven't read this from the beginning but just to give some ideas to work with:

you should check stator values, and yes when the engine gets hot the stator gets weaker, specially if it's not 100%, because as it gets hotter the windings starts to short circuit

about the ignition timing, you are correct, but if you could use a strobe light it would be better, because this ignitions are a bit crazy, no 2 are alike :eek:

some will call me crazy but for the major problem with all of this SEM bikes, is that you can't give them enough revs to make a decent spark, my 400 is a bit decompressed and it kicks like a 2 stroke, and she will start first or second kick every time
so maybe you should consider the newer autodecomp with the stronger spring, I think this will make a big difference

also you can do your version of a hot start, it can help a lot

sorry got run

good luck
:cool:
ZAGA
 

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