Engine service questions 1994 FE600

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K

Khristi

Joined
Jan 10, 2017
Messages
64
Location
Sweden - Sjömarken
With no history on the bike except that it's a bit hard to start and with an upcoming tear down/status check I have the following questions:

1. I have read here that the cam follower bearings often go bad and should be replaced periodically. Is it enough to inspect them or should they be replaced anyway?

2. Is this older config with dual valve springs as "bad" as the later config with single harder tapered springs? Would taffmeisters dual spring kit improve bearing life? And do they fit without machining?

3. Is it enough to inspect the cam chain (that tensioner is not all the way in)?

4. Is it possible to tell the state of the con rod bearing without splitting the engine?

5. Should the piston be replaced or is it enough to inspect? Anything particulary to look for apart from the obvious (scratches etc.)?

6. Anything else that I should take a look at (transmission, clutch...)?

Carb, ignition, wiring valve clearance etc. will of course be cleaned/tuned as far as possible.

Thanks in advance.

Khristi
 
1. I have read here that the cam follower bearings often go bad and should be replaced periodically. Is it enough to inspect them or should they be replaced anyway?
A: wait for them to go. your old DVSK are soft like my DVSK are.


2. Is this older config with dual valve springs as "bad" as the later config with single harder tapered springs? Would taffmeisters dual spring kit improve bearing life? And do they fit without machining?
A: as said above - yours are fine but they are also very old.

3. Is it enough to inspect the cam chain (that tensioner is not all the way in)?
A: yes if you have clicks left then it is OK.

4. Is it possible to tell the state of the con rod bearing without splitting the engine?
A: yes, you can. hold the con rod at the little end and slap the crankshaft up underneath upwards slapping both flywheels with the palm of your hand. you can feel 'knocking' but also, press the rod to one side and then try and wobble the rod. 2mm+ = gone. always change the little end.

5. Should the piston be replaced or is it enough to inspect? Anything particulary to look for apart from the obvious (scratches etc.)?
A: usually yes, they are rarely "nice". also check the nikasil lining.

6. Anything else that I should take a look at (transmission, clutch...)?
A: everything, everything is phuqed on the old ones. spend, spend and keep spending.

Carb, ignition, wiring valve clearance etc. will of course be cleaned/tuned as far as possible.

Thanks in advance.

Khristi

I have loads of videos on my Facebook page that will help you. lots on the 1998 FE600e I have here.

regards

Taffy
 
Thank you, Taffy. I hope to have the bike home soon so I can tear it apart. The wössner piston kit you sell, 95 mm (100330), is available in a, b and c. I guess a is original bore and b and c are OD bores. Am I correct?
 
yes, just wear rather than overbore
a is new
b is wherever
c is worn

B has a personality disorder and can't tell what it really is. just get an a or a c.

Taffy
 
Finally got the bike home last week. After cleaning the carb, setting the valve clearance and auto decomp I began some assembly of carb, radiator etc. just to start it up and see how it runs.

I found it a bit strange that it wasn't that hard to kick around. My borther has one just like this and it's impossible to kickstart if the auto decomp isn't set correctly. I got a few exhaust booms but it wouldn't fire up. Checked spark and it was good. When I had the spark plug out I put my finger in the hole while cranking the motor on the main shaft. Felt almost no compression at all so I figured I had messed up the decomp somehow. To check this, off with the radiator again... Double checked valve clearance and decomp but it was correct. What to do then? Off with the head!
 
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I thought there might be something wrong with the valves not seating correctly and I was right. One exhaust valve broken.

Bad news:
1. Valve has to be replaced of course. Do I change both exhaust valves or just the broken one?
2. There's also some signs of detonation or other bad conditions on the flat parts of the combustion chamber. I take it the same bad conditions that killed the valve caused this pitting?

Good news:
1. Valve seat seems fine.
2. Cylinder walls are absolutely spotless and no turn egdes (you can see the difference in the bottom part where the honing is more visible but you can't feel it).
3. Piston and rings look good apart for some very minor pits on the top of the piston (the same as on the cylinder head combustion chamber)
 

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i'm not really sure here.... the backfire could be poor spark. but more likely that you have not found TDC and on the correct stroke so as to do the job right.

Taffy
 
Just received a bunch of stuff from Taffmeister. A few questions:

1. When fitting the new exhaust valves, do I need to use lapping paste to make them seat/seal? The valve seats show no signs of pitting/scouring.

2. Do you think it's OK to put the cyl head on the round feed table and use an end mill to machine the flat parts of the combustion chamber to remove the dents? I think somewhere from 0.5 to 1 mm will do it. This will of course lower the compression some and slightly change the squish geometry but not mess up the valve timing.

3. When fitting the new timing chain, should I use silicone on the chain link? I remember reading it somewhere and my old chain shows signs of this.
 
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I always lap new valves in. BTW, husabergs suffer more with tuliped seats-curved seats if you like.....

I have never put silicon on the split link but nothing is stopping you.

the inlet seats will be very close to where you are milling, all i do is go over the head with a rotary mop sander and take the high points off. i never worry about low points - just high points! I wouldn't mill it.

Taffy
 
Time to go back on the engine. High spots knocked off from head and piston. New exhaust valves lapped in and fitted. Piston lightly blast cleaned on top.
 

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Assembled the engine, some difference in compression now when the valves shut tight.

There were no markings on the cam sprocket but I put the lobes lika a V, intake and exhaust lobes on equal distance from center with piston at TDC. This aligns the cam sprocket bolts with the cam cover case split.

Kicked the motor for quite som time but couldn't get it to start.

I have spark and the plug is gapped to 0.7 mm. Spark serms fine but I have only tested with no plug installed. Coil is new but I have not measured the stator DC resistance.

Pulled the carb just for the sake of it although I had already cleaned it. The o-ring at the choke jet is kind of hard, how much does this influence. And look at the attached photo, should there be a jet or a plug below the inlet valve (below as in the photo)? The hole is threaded. And how much should the slide be open (idle adjutment screw). I have the mixture screw two turns out from bottom and needle at second groove from bottom. This is the PHM38.
 

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Just checked with a flashlight and the threaded hole with nothing in it is a blind hole.

Pilot is 52, needle K32, emulsion tube AB265, choke jet 45 and main jet 180.

Did I read somewhere that there should be another jet under the pilot jet? I don't have one.
 
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The jet you are referring to is called the CDI jet. Some carbs came with them. Some did not. It is generally considered helpful for starting if you add the jet if yours did not come with one.
 
Tdc found by using an indicator clock in the spark plug hole. Tdc matches a mark on the flywheel with a mark on the right engine case. Cam chain fully streched on the "pull" side (streched on both sides really since it's a new chain).
 
You may try pouring a little gas down the spark plug hole. If it runs for a bit its probably a fuel issue.

Lean the bike all the way over to the left to get fuel to the petcock side. Don't rely on the fuel pump on a first start up and / or fill the tank to the brim to insure fuel gets over to the left side.

Make sure your fuel cap vent hose is unobstructed.
 
You probably did this but if the pilot jet is plugged, even a little bit, it probably won't start. Use a torch cleaner to ream out the crud in the jet. The holes are so small and the old fuel gets so hard that sometimes it not a bad idea to just get a new pilot jet to rule out that issue.
 

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