original or aftermarket?
- Thread starter slangen78
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I'd say anything around 2000-2003 pre Kokusan (2004) would plug in. I'm not certain though....
Damo
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up to 2002 they had like Zaga has, under the frame and the regulator is separate from the rectifier. but in 2003 a larger unit was fitted under the seat very similar if not actually the item in the top photo.
always difficult to know what the output is of all these things. the original had no coding on it. however, it should be in the bikes specifications?
regards
Taffy
always difficult to know what the output is of all these things. the original had no coding on it. however, it should be in the bikes specifications?
regards
Taffy
I have like the picture shows a 3-phase regulator. And when I measure between the blue and the yellow cables from the stator I get 80vac and between the two yellow max 30vac.
So my question is it possible to remove the battery and keep the broken stator. So I can have enough power to the light's in some way.
When a give the engine more rpm the less the light's are shining.
So my question is it possible to remove the battery and keep the broken stator. So I can have enough power to the light's in some way.
When a give the engine more rpm the less the light's are shining.
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Hi
Taffy, this unit that I'm pointing, it's a regulator/rectifier, and you also have another regulator.
It's like this because that unit it's connected to one of the yellows and it's powering the battery.
The other yellow is connected to one regulator only and it's used to power only the lights.
This is the original configuration, but you can make another arrangements.
Slangen, this is not a 3 phase regulator, because the bike has a single phase stator, only has 2 single phases.
What do you mean by broken stator ? usually that part of the stator don't break ?? and one of the yellows should have power enough to power the lights (70W)
Anyway, check values between the yellow and the blue to know if everything is ok, if values are ok should be the regulator.
But if you had one of the phases bad (one of the yellows), the one that is connected to lights, and the one that goes to batt in good condition, yes, you could disconnect the batt one and use it to the lights.
ZAGA
Taffy, this unit that I'm pointing, it's a regulator/rectifier, and you also have another regulator.
It's like this because that unit it's connected to one of the yellows and it's powering the battery.
The other yellow is connected to one regulator only and it's used to power only the lights.
This is the original configuration, but you can make another arrangements.
Slangen, this is not a 3 phase regulator, because the bike has a single phase stator, only has 2 single phases.
What do you mean by broken stator ? usually that part of the stator don't break ?? and one of the yellows should have power enough to power the lights (70W)
Anyway, check values between the yellow and the blue to know if everything is ok, if values are ok should be the regulator.
But if you had one of the phases bad (one of the yellows), the one that is connected to lights, and the one that goes to batt in good condition, yes, you could disconnect the batt one and use it to the lights.
ZAGA
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I have seen this many times but never sat down to work it all out. I ahd an excellent mechanic work for me who sorted it and the bike ran perfectly for years with lights off kickstart only.
you must create an earth off the regulator but I would need to have a good look at it all. you can't just do NOTHING.
regards
Taffy
Ok Zaga if the two yellow wires from the stator is phases the blue should be (-) or ground?
And if you look at the wiring diagram that Damo W posted you see that black/white wire is
(-) or ground and the red wire supply the battery and the lights.
And if you look at the wiring diagram that Damo W posted you see that black/white wire is
(-) or ground and the red wire supply the battery and the lights.
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Hi
Your stator, I like to divided it in two parts, and those parts are separated:
The BAD part is the one that powers the CDI (coil), there you have one common ground (-) that is the black, one green that is the trigger coil (it's that one alone) and the red that powers the coil of your CDI (those 3 coils).
This is what makes your bike run, and the ones that usually gives you problems
To check this part of the stator you must measure the resistances (+/- 10%)
Black / Red - 3000 Ohm
Black / Green - 165 Ohms
The GOOD part is the one that powers your battery and lights, that are all those coils that stay closer to the engine.
There you have a common ground, the blue, and 2 single phases, the yellows.
Usually this GOOD part doesn't give you problems.
To check this part, the values are
Blue / Yellow (each) - < 1,0 Ohm
Also between one of the yellows and the blue, and before the Reg/Rect, you should measure at least 14 VAC (never measured but this should be the value). After the rectifier you must measure in DC.
So my advise is to start by checking the stator, then if it's ok, trying to follow the problem.
Hope this helps
ZAGA
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You did well mate to borrow and test an electrical part from a shop! You must have a nice pleasant manner about you!
It's certainly looking that way. I'd recommend you get in touch with Steve I think at UK Motoplat (Sparks on this forum). Or maybe Taffy is an agent for him? I don't know. Just get it rewound anyway regardless, it will be better than new and you'll have piece of mind. I'm still running mine that he did many years ago and it's been great.
UK Motoplat - Bradford Ignitions - SEM ignition
Best of luck
Damo
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