It's like a Swiss watch, the Husaberg - lots of funny little parts. Here are some oil change tips:
- Change the oil after a short ride to make sure that all particulate matter is in suspension in the oil and will drain out with the oil.
- You need to dismount the skid plate to do an oil change. Even if you have the Husaberg or aftermarket alloy skid plate with a cutout for the oil drain plug, you still need to pull the skid plate to get to the oil line screen.
- With the skid plate removed, lift the bike on a work stand. Position the stand on the forward part of the frame so that you can have access to the drain plugs and so that you don't coat your work stand with oil. I like to tie the bike off to an overhead point just in case I get clumsy and bump the bike enough to unsettle it on the work stand. Garage crashes are really embarassing (and preventable with a little rope).
- The frame will very likely prevent you from getting a straight shot on the drain plug and engine oil screen plug with a socket wrench, but a 13mm end wrench will work perfectly.
- You will NOT fully drain the dirty oil out of the engine simply by pulling the drain plug. More will come out after you pull the engine oil sceen. Still more will come out if you carefully lean the bike to the right. Do all that and you STILL haven't fully drained the oil.
- Clean the filter screen and replace both it and the drain plug. Finger tight will do for now, because you're going to remove them again after you change the filter and clean the banjo bolt oil screen.
- Unscrew the two bolts holding the oil filter cover (8mm socket), and pop off the cover. It'll drain a lot more oil, so place your drain pan accordingly. It'll drain more if you lean the bike over to the left. (And you STILL haven't drained all of the dirty oil!) You may need a set of circlip pliers to remove the oil filter. Let 'er drain, pop in the new filter (KTM PN 77038005000 for the FE 570 S or K&N PN KN-655), and replace the cover after you've cleaned and reoiled the o-ring. Make sure you get the o-ring seated properly and that you get a metal-on-metal seat between the oil filter cover and the engine case. A little anti-sieze grease on the threads may make the next oil change easier.
- Pull the banjo bolt on the upper end of the exposed chrome oil line on the front of the engine (17mm). Inside that banjo bolt is the second oil filter screen. Clean the screen and replace, making sure you've got a copper crush washer on either side of the oil line. You may find this is made a little easier by loosening the lower banjo bolt (also 17mm). Since you've drained the engine from the drain plug, engine oil screen, and filter housing, there will be very little dribble from the banjo bolt.
- OK, only now are you able to get all of the rest of the dirty oil out of the engine. Pull the drain plug and the engine oil screen again and dogonne if MORE dirty oil doesn't drain out. Lean the bike to the right to get it all. Replace the engine oil screen and the drain plug and snug them down (13mm). The manual specifies 14.8 ft-lbs, but the clearances are such that you may not be able to get a torque wrench in there. Don't over tighten! A little anti-seize grease on the threads is wise.
- With the bike upright and level (not on the side stand) add your fresh new motor oil to the engine. You can lay a small flashlight on the right footpeg and keep an eye on the oil level inspection window. The manual says the capacity is 1.43 quarts. You want the oil level in the top half of the inspection window.
- All done? Nope. With the skid plate still off, start her up and check for leaks everywhere you've been - the drain plug, the engine oil screen, the engine oil line banjo bolts, and the oil fiter housing. If no leaks, you're still not done. Turn the engine off and let the oil return to the crankcase while you're replacing the skid plate, and then recheck the oil level with the bike upright and level. You'll need a little more oil to put the oil level back in the upper half of the inspection window.
- NOW you're done. Miller time.
- Change the oil after a short ride to make sure that all particulate matter is in suspension in the oil and will drain out with the oil.
- You need to dismount the skid plate to do an oil change. Even if you have the Husaberg or aftermarket alloy skid plate with a cutout for the oil drain plug, you still need to pull the skid plate to get to the oil line screen.
- With the skid plate removed, lift the bike on a work stand. Position the stand on the forward part of the frame so that you can have access to the drain plugs and so that you don't coat your work stand with oil. I like to tie the bike off to an overhead point just in case I get clumsy and bump the bike enough to unsettle it on the work stand. Garage crashes are really embarassing (and preventable with a little rope).
- The frame will very likely prevent you from getting a straight shot on the drain plug and engine oil screen plug with a socket wrench, but a 13mm end wrench will work perfectly.
- You will NOT fully drain the dirty oil out of the engine simply by pulling the drain plug. More will come out after you pull the engine oil sceen. Still more will come out if you carefully lean the bike to the right. Do all that and you STILL haven't fully drained the oil.
- Clean the filter screen and replace both it and the drain plug. Finger tight will do for now, because you're going to remove them again after you change the filter and clean the banjo bolt oil screen.
- Unscrew the two bolts holding the oil filter cover (8mm socket), and pop off the cover. It'll drain a lot more oil, so place your drain pan accordingly. It'll drain more if you lean the bike over to the left. (And you STILL haven't drained all of the dirty oil!) You may need a set of circlip pliers to remove the oil filter. Let 'er drain, pop in the new filter (KTM PN 77038005000 for the FE 570 S or K&N PN KN-655), and replace the cover after you've cleaned and reoiled the o-ring. Make sure you get the o-ring seated properly and that you get a metal-on-metal seat between the oil filter cover and the engine case. A little anti-sieze grease on the threads may make the next oil change easier.
- Pull the banjo bolt on the upper end of the exposed chrome oil line on the front of the engine (17mm). Inside that banjo bolt is the second oil filter screen. Clean the screen and replace, making sure you've got a copper crush washer on either side of the oil line. You may find this is made a little easier by loosening the lower banjo bolt (also 17mm). Since you've drained the engine from the drain plug, engine oil screen, and filter housing, there will be very little dribble from the banjo bolt.
- OK, only now are you able to get all of the rest of the dirty oil out of the engine. Pull the drain plug and the engine oil screen again and dogonne if MORE dirty oil doesn't drain out. Lean the bike to the right to get it all. Replace the engine oil screen and the drain plug and snug them down (13mm). The manual specifies 14.8 ft-lbs, but the clearances are such that you may not be able to get a torque wrench in there. Don't over tighten! A little anti-seize grease on the threads is wise.
- With the bike upright and level (not on the side stand) add your fresh new motor oil to the engine. You can lay a small flashlight on the right footpeg and keep an eye on the oil level inspection window. The manual says the capacity is 1.43 quarts. You want the oil level in the top half of the inspection window.
- All done? Nope. With the skid plate still off, start her up and check for leaks everywhere you've been - the drain plug, the engine oil screen, the engine oil line banjo bolts, and the oil fiter housing. If no leaks, you're still not done. Turn the engine off and let the oil return to the crankcase while you're replacing the skid plate, and then recheck the oil level with the bike upright and level. You'll need a little more oil to put the oil level back in the upper half of the inspection window.
- NOW you're done. Miller time.
