best wiring kit to make American version '11 Hussa FE 450 road legal?

I have been looking to make my new Hussa FE 450 Road legal, this is the american version so it did not come with the turn signal switch on the handle bar. It does have the low/high beam and horn switch but no horn. Also has no ignition key.
I have been looking at the Tusk Enduro wiring harness system and the Sicass racing wiring harness system.
The Tusk is half the price and comes with a mirror, horn, LED turn signals front and rear, turn signal switch, and a rear fender with a brake light which attaches to underside of stock fender.
It appears to be set up as an easy to install "plug and play" unit, anyone here has installed this kit on same bike?
Looking at best way to make my bike road legal with the least amount of headaches! I have seen a thread on this before but it just goes sideways in no time and never could find a straight up answer!

Thanks for any infos, Cheers!

I have a sicass street legal kit on my 11 450. Looks clean and works great

I was about to post about the same topic.

I have FE 390 up here in Ontario. I reviewed both kits and arrived to this conclusion

1) Siccass - 2011 Husaberg FE with Turn Signals [21-241] - $318.90 : sicassracing.com

- it includes Kill switch which FE already has
- no mirrors or horn (to be fair to them, they call it lights kit, but they include license plate holder?? ... it seems to be a mixed bag)
- expensive for what is bunch of wires and switches

2)Tusk
Enduro Dual Sport Street Legal and Lighting Kit Husaberg FE TE 2009 2014 | eBay

- They say it includes hydraulic brake switch, but it's not clear whether it has both front and rear??
- much more affordable, if it indeed has everything Siccass does and is plug and play as well.

There's a couple of other kits ... like doctor enduro and offroad boss ... but they keep including things like headlight and tail light FE does not need.

So, I share OP's dilemna ...

Tusk enduro light kit vs sicass light kit for fe 450

Yeah I figured the tusk kit seem to make more sense especially on the wallet!
I was hoping I could get some reviews on it from someone whom has instaled the same kit on same bike..

I will go with the Tusk as well, although it's not clear to me whether both brakes will trip the brake light ...

Are you going ebay, shipping from US .... or have you found someone in Canada with a similar price?

They only list rear brake switch, so I am not sure how much better this is than the Tusk kit. The price is also almost double the Tusk as well.

mxs said:

They only list rear brake switch, so I am not sure how much better this is than the Tusk kit. The price is also almost double the Tusk as well.

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I think the wiring is a factory Husaberg part number. The Headlamp / Blinker Switch is definitely a Husaberg part. I have heard of others that have used the kit from Rick and were pleased. This may be the cleanest way to go but not the least expensive. Perhaps give Rick a call and talk it out. He is very approachable and used to post on this site quite frequently.

We actually exchanged emails and he suggested to call him as he needs me to answer some questions. So I am planning to do that tomorrow.

I ended up ordering the Tusk enduro lighting kit and an extra double take mirror, a friend lives in Washington so I got it shipped to his address to avoid shipping charges (Rocky Mtn had a three day free shipping promo within the US) He will bring it across so no customs fees either!
I will post on here how the kit turns out.

I will be very interested to hear what your experience with the Tusk is.

BTW, I have spoken to Rick and he explained the whole deal over the phone. Flexibility to order individual parts is key when dealing with him. He will build you a kit, whatever you need. It will be more money than Tusk, but it will also have things Tusk will not have, I know that. Like LED lights and proper LED flasher with dash light showing that your signals are on. I am sure harnesses will fit like a glove without having to splice anything (I have the right harness already) ... as per his words. The mirrors and horn are probably similar types, doesn't matter what kit you order.

Anyways, I am looking forward to your report.

I always use the factory harness and add the EU version of harness that is missing and add hydraulic pressure switches instead of the factory manual switches. This always works excellent as most parts plug and play. Siccaas has allot of these parts and harness add on's. I think it cost me about $100 usd to do mine and a little labour time as I did extras such as the turn signal indicator in the tripmeter ect.

100 USD to make whole bike street legal? With Siccass components? Sounds like something I cannot achieve looking at their kits or individual parts. Just 4 LED's signal lights will be +60USD (depending what you choose) ... + flasher + dash indicator. Then you have mirror(s) and at least one brake pressure switch. Hard to get under 200USD before shipping ...

Okay, so the kit came in, the turn signal and horn/headlamp switches that mount on the handle bars are kinda bulky and cheesy but I will have to re assess after mounting the kit. I should have it done this weekend, will post pics and comments once done!
Cheers.

oh, and sorry for being ignorant but how do I post pictures on here?

mxs said:

100 USD to make whole bike street legal? With Siccass components? Sounds like something I cannot achieve looking at their kits or individual parts. Just 4 LED's signal lights will be +60USD (depending what you choose) ... + flasher + dash indicator. Then you have mirror(s) and at least one brake pressure switch. Hard to get under 200USD before shipping ...

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Sorry for the confusion, This was for the harness parts only.

I ordered 2 flush mount led signals for rear and small led signals for front I think about 40 bux, then the flasher I ordered from a local auto parts supplier was about 15. I don't have mirrors but most bicycle stores sell for 9 bux a piece. The horn is about 15 and the labour was a bit of my time. The pressure switches were 30 and I added two diodes that I had in stock $2 and didn't add a key switch as they don't prevent theft anyways. Everything else was on the bike in the usa version such as the tail light dual filament, high and low beam, I added a sicass bar switch for horn and lights. I used the factory trip meter for the high beam indicator as it was there but not hooked up.

I found this the nicest and cleanest way to install without adding wires and things that were not required and using KTM's original harness as much as possible. So nothing doubled up and everything used that was already in place.

I did this on both my ktm and husa without ever having problems. I do find the kits are easy, but also avoid using allot of the harness that is already supplied. Good for mx versions and versions without headlight and taillights but doubling harness on those that have. More weight lol

I do know that it was cheaper for me to do it this way than to purchase any kits and have them shipped to Canada. I cant find my husa photos and the bike is at my farm 400k away so I cant take a pic. This is the ktm and the husa is very close.

ISLANDBERG said:

oh, and sorry for being ignorant but how do I post pictures on here?

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When posting look up to the toolbar and hit the paperclip then find picture file by browsing your computer. than upload, then hit the paperclip again and click on the file. It will post it inside the post

FE350 said:

Sorry for the confusion, This was for the harness parts only.

I ordered 2 flush mount led signals for rear and small led signals for front I think about 40 bux, then the flasher I ordered from a local auto parts supplier was about 15. I don't have mirrors but most bicycle stores sell for 9 bux a piece. The horn is about 15 and the labour was a bit of my time. The pressure switches were 30 and I added two diodes that I had in stock $2 and didn't add a key switch as they don't prevent theft anyways. Everything else was on the bike in the usa version such as the tail light dual filament, high and low beam, I added a sicass bar switch for horn and lights. I used the factory trip meter for the high beam indicator as it was there but not hooked up.

I found this the nicest and cleanest way to install without adding wires and things that were not required and using KTM's original harness as much as possible. So nothing doubled up and everything used that was already in place.

I did this on both my ktm and husa without ever having problems. I do find the kits are easy, but also avoid using allot of the harness that is already supplied. Good for mx versions and versions without headlight and taillights but doubling harness on those that have. More weight lol

I do know that it was cheaper for me to do it this way than to purchase any kits and have them shipped to Canada. I cant find my husa photos and the bike is at my farm 400k away so I cant take a pic. This is the ktm and the husa is very close.

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Thanks for clarifying. Looks good.

Thanks here is my Husa, she's a beauty!

Okay, all done but was a learning experience not without frustrations as I absolutely despise electrical work!! Probably took twice the time it would have taken anybody with good electrical knowledge!
I am posting pictures quickly here but Will explain some of the problems I had later... Do not attempt to cram the horn behind headlight mask (I installed a trailteck dual purpose hallogen headlight). The horn will get pushed against metal braket where connectecting harnesses are and create a short! Keeps blowing the fuse!
I found a tucked away spot that does not interfere with anything by slightly modifying the the horn bracket for better fitment with a grinder, I mounted the horn ousing one of the engine mount bolts by the head on the left side of the bike, It's kinda tight with the gas tank but it works, just have to make sure all connectors are taped properly to avoid a bad ground and you need to extend the harness by splicing the two wires with extra wiring to reach the horn down by the head...
The plastic fender that the Tusk kit comes with needs some fine tunning for better fitment with a dremmel and disc cutter then I highly recomend re-inforcing the fender with thin guage alluminium sheet bolted thru the fender with fat washers to give the original stifness back to rear fender.. All stainless hardwear and lock nuts of course...
here are some pictures...The bike is insured and on the road now and I have had no issues yet. The ON/Off switch that comes with the kit only shuts off the electrical components hooked on to the after market harness, it DOES NOT KILL THE ENGINE, IT IS NOT A KILL SWITCH althought it says ENG ON/OFF on it...I had to remount stock switch that has HI/LOW beam and horn/ENG KILL on so that I can shut engine off as I still don't have an ignition key for the bike yet...