Is this the MAP Switch Connector ??

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Joined
May 27, 2014
Messages
5
Location
NSW Australia
Hi, I am trying to solve a small problem with my FE350 and want to try the "slow" map however I am a little confused: the vid on slavens racing shows a two wire connector (black and grey) under the tank but some on the forum here say its a two wire sealed connector behind the headlight but the only one I can find is under the seat and looks like the pic below (cap removed) is this the map connector???
 

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Ive had a look under my seat and thats what connects on a loom to my switch at the front. Did a continuity test. Hope that helps.
 
Ive had a look under my seat and thats what connects on a loom to my switch at the front. Did a continuity test. Hope that helps.

Many thanks Mordzy, appreciated. I am in Aus so it looks like our bikes did not carry the connection through to the headlight. I will try putting a 15k resistor across the terminals and see how that goes.

thx again

iced
 
what advantages would i get by installing a map switch on my fe450 2010, ????? thanks for any info.
 
Hi,

Not sure about the 450 but I can now tell you the difference on a 350. I only installed a two position switch that allows for "mild" (15k) and "wild" (6.8k).

In mild mode the throttle response is a lot smoother down low and the typical fuel injected "jerk" at the start of the throttle is noticeably less. Although only ridden once today it did seem to need less attention to stall in slow trials type stuff.

In the wild setting the idle speed jumps up and throttle was definitely jerky down low and very snappy, at low throttle it seemed edgy and wanted to "go now!"

However up the top end there seemed to be no discernible difference; both top ends rev out and power at the top end seemed to be the same. So for my Aus mapped 350 the main difference was down low.

Try it, my switch cost me $1.22 (50c switch, 12c for resistors and 60c for wire) See pic for switch wired onto handlebars ... to get the flat blades for the connector I doubled the copper and soldered it, then pinched it with pliers to flat and then trimmed it with very sharp mini side cutters until it fitted into the connector tightly. then heat shrink and all taped up.
 

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Thanks for your info, someone is selling a switch on a local website, thus why i inquired, thanks again, will consider it.
 

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