Let's Get This FE650E Fired!

Okay guys, this is a continuation of this- http://husaberg.org/motorcycle-talk/19497-2001-650-should-i.html
and since the bike is past should I and is now I have, time to start a thread on getting this thing to start reliably every time.
Right now, I'm only concerned with getting it to fire off the kick starter.
I need to get this thing to spark at slow RPMs--like kick starter speed or less.
I was able to accidently get this thing running one time and since then--nothing.

Right now the bike has a new HPI stator and as was pointed out to me is crap.
So, I need to acquire a stock SEM and have it rewound. I have one here and was wondering if it will work for the 650. A couple pics:




I believe this is out of my old FC470 however I'm not sure now. It fits inside the 650s flywheel (rotor) perfectly.

I want this bike to have a killer bright blue kernal on the plug--even if I'm spinning it over by hand with an end wrench on the end of the crank.

Right now, I can kick it over with the plug out fast enough to get a decent spark--with the plug in--not even close.

Is there any way to give the CDI/coil extra juice from the battery when kicking it over?

Oh, and one other thing. What Ohms should these stators measure out to and which wires?
I know I've seen the specs dozens of times on here but I can't for the life of me find them now.

SEM specs

SEM system fitted to mainly KTM Husaberg and VOR

SEM is an other ignition stator that we rewind this has also given bad
problems over the years, fitted mainly to KTM HUSABERG HUSQVARNA. The main
problem was that the source coil windings would go open circuit or they
became very difficult to start.
We have over come this problem by using high quality enamelled wire and
terminating the coils in a more reliable manner which is proving to be very
successful. Like all the other ignitions that we rewind they are run up on
the test rig to test for possible fault and performance.

New test figures for Husaberg

Up to 1998 >>> black & red 1750 Ohms
> black & green 23 Ohms

1999 to 2003 >>> black & red 3000 Ohms
> black & green 165 Ohms

UK Motoplat - Bradford Ignitions

Thanks husabutt. I emailed Bradford.

Just checked the above stator.

Red and black: 1.743 K

Green and black: 23.4

oop:

Could someone point me out to a Yamaha R6 starter upgrade thread?
I'm not having any luck searching.

Thanks!

Weak and failing electric starter '00 - '02

For three years owners struggled with weak starters that were classified as 'restarters' and only to be used after the engine was warm. Typically the starter would spin through and not quite 'catch' the engine and batteries went flat quickly.

There was an error in the '03 parts manual whereby they simply failed to realise that the whole set up had been upgraded for that year. The parts book was corrected in '04 when Husaberg went to the present Parts # system.



WAS IN '02

9 250 247-01....Free wheel outer part 01- (outter)

10 250 245-01...Clutch mechanism free wheel 01- (sprague)

11 360 035-01...Needle bearing free wheel 01-

12 250 248-01...Free wheel inner part 01- (inner). Changed to part No.250273 for '03.



BECAME IN '04

20 800.40.020.000 .......03 FREE WHEEL GEAR 03 (outter)

24 0405 101310............02 NEEDLE BEARING K 10X13X10 02

25 800.40.025.000 ........03 FREE WHEEL HUB 03 (inner)

26 800.40.026.000........ 03 FREE WHEEL 03 (sprague)

Don't mix the 'sets' of parts! (read Engine whining ....below).

By matching the old and new, it should be very easy to get the right parts. But remember, the sprague was only 40% of the problem for owners wishing to have good electric starts! The battery needs beefing, the starter motor wants beefing and with the new starter, owners need a new mounting bracket. Then we have the modified decomp which matches a later ('03) camshaft.



Gear wheel torque limiter

At the same time as the above was being 'beefed up' ('03), Husaberg changed the small idler wheel between the starter and the sprague assembly and created the 'gear wheel torque limiter'. It is designed to slip when faced with a massive surge such as a backfire etc and protect the starter motor. The assembly is built akin to an old drum brake with the friction surface on the inner wheel.

The slippage value is between 7 - 15 lb/foot2 (Boss). The gear was modified in '04 to part number: 21 800.40.021.100 .......04 GEAR WHEEL TORQUE LIMITER 04. The part can be disassembled and rebuilt with a larger shim: "The one I took off mine slipped at 5Nm, so when you undo the bolt that holds the two halves together there is a dished washer. All I did was to put a 0.015" shim in first then the dished washer, re-tighten the bolt and voila! it now slips at 25Nm! (Sparks). See the UHE Forum thread here.


This is from the Doc. You can beef everything and use a 08 cam and decomp and perhaps a dual valve spring kit but then your Sprague will slip.

Check with Taffy if you can use the later model Sprague on an 01. I think it will cause a whining noise. He will know exactly what needs to be done.

when i got my '02 fx650, it had no starter, so i tried a cbr600 starter and was not impressed. then tried a r6 (both are mitsuba sm16 starters, but with different length mount ends). this pic shows how i adapted the yam r6 so it would line up to the berg bracket. just drill a couple holes and angle grind a spacer then mount the relay bracket to the other holes.
it worked great, but a key part is getting the autodecomp working right

ned37 said:

when i got my '02 fx650, it had no starter, so i tried a cbr600 starter and was not impressed. then tried a r6 (both are mitsuba sm16 starters, but with different length mount ends). this pic shows how i adapted the yam r6 so it would line up to the berg bracket. just drill a couple holes and angle grind a spacer then mount the relay bracket to the other holes.
it worked great, but a key part is getting the autodecomp working right

Click to expand...

Hi Ned:

Did you update the Sprague? If not was the Sprague slipping an issue ?

Anyone have a rocker cover to frame breather hose they'd care to part with?
Mine's rotten and cracked.
Also need the starter solenoid mount bracket.

Thanks.

I've got one. Brand new, with the sponge-type filter. For 2005 FE...please confirm it will work for you. No clamps, just the rubber boot and filter. I bought it but am going to do a mod rather than the stock set-up.

One of the previous owner installed a simple airfilter right on top of the front case vent hole so of course oil is everywhere on the engine. I am going to add a hose and such to clean up the set-up.

I bought fuel hose... it's too stiff.

Anyway, PM me I suppose.

brucifer said:

Anyone have a rocker cover to frame breather hose they'd care to part with?
Mine's rotten and cracked.
Also need the starter solenoid mount bracket.

Thanks.

Click to expand...

Did you update the Sprague? If not was the Sprague slipping an issue

Click to expand...

not initially, but a year or so later i had to replace the inner.

Anyone have a rocker cover to frame breather hose they'd care to part with

Click to expand...

on mine, i blocked off the frame tube using a spray can cap and some duct tape then using about a 18" long piece of auto heater hose, looped it up behind that frame connector and then down to the bottom of the tank and put a foam filter over the end. worked great. (it worked so good, i use the same technic on my triumph tiger steamer)

jmscrttndn said:

I've got one. Brand new, with the sponge-type filter. For 2005 FE...please confirm it will work for you. No clamps, just the rubber boot and filter. I bought it but am going to do a mod rather than the stock set-up.

One of the previous owner installed a simple airfilter right on top of the front case vent hole so of course oil is everywhere on the engine. I am going to add a hose and such to clean up the set-up.

I bought fuel hose... it's too stiff.

Anyway, PM me I suppose.

Click to expand...

I believe they're different.
Mine has just a single spigot coming off the exhaust side of the rocker cover, yours has two, I think?

ned37 said:

not initially, but a year or so later i had to replace the inner.

on mine, i blocked off the frame tube using a spray can cap and some duct tape then using about a 18" long piece of auto heater hose, looped it up behind that frame connector and then down to the bottom of the tank and put a foam filter over the end. worked great. (it worked so good, i use the same technic on my triumph tiger steamer)

Click to expand...

I'll give that a shot Ned, if I can't come up with the correct part.
Thanks for the idea.

brucifer said:

Anyone have a rocker cover to frame breather hose they'd care to part with?
Mine's rotten and cracked.
Also need the starter solenoid mount bracket.

Thanks.

Click to expand...

Brucifer

why would you buy a used one? they perish like hell and you can still buy them new? it doesn't make sense mate? buy new OK?

you don't want that starter solenoid mounting bracket either! you want the 2004-2008 bracket and hide the solenoid away in the middle of the frame. it is then out of sight. now don't get me wrong, it isn't a straighht fit but it is well worth buying and 15 minutes with a pair of mole grips and a vice.

regards

Taffy

a pair of mole grips

Click to expand...

around here we shoot 'em, not grip 'em

brucifer said:

I believe they're different.
Mine has just a single spigot coming off the exhaust side of the rocker cover, yours has two, I think?

Click to expand...

True, I tried.

Locking pliers - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

look up 'history'.

now you know!

Taffy

now i know.

Selling it already?