Mystery Motor 03 FE650

Husaberg

Help Support Husaberg:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
tdetlor

tdetlor

Joined
Aug 23, 2014
Messages
64
Location
cambridge ontario canada
Hey guys. I picked up an 03 650 in the summer time. Fires right up. Runs great. But the display on the computer is dead. I have no idea how many hours are on it and it's bugging me. So I pulled the motor out, and I was hoping to get some input via the pictures I'm providing; on things out of the ordinary. And advice on bearings that should be replaced.

The timing chain looks like a concern to me. Few nicks in it.
JWIS chain is this stock?
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20150104_151546.jpg
    IMG_20150104_151546.jpg
    88.3 KB
  • IMG_20150106_183846.jpg
    IMG_20150106_183846.jpg
    92.9 KB
  • IMG_20150106_183905.jpg
    IMG_20150106_183905.jpg
    88.1 KB
  • IMG_20150106_184111.jpg
    IMG_20150106_184111.jpg
    87.5 KB
  • IMG_20150106_184250.jpg
    IMG_20150106_184250.jpg
    89.8 KB
interesting...the po welded the pins on the roller bearings. will be fun replacing them. the divots on the cam chain was prolly flak from a failure of some kind. how many clicks left on the tensioner? what does the auto decomp tip look like on the cam?
 
I will pull the chain tensioner and take a look. I will also take a pic of the lobe. I think I need to pull the side covers off and take a look.
 
I count 15 teeth exposed on the tensioner. And the auto decompression looks decent I believe?
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20150106_210354.jpg
    IMG_20150106_210354.jpg
    84.8 KB
  • IMG_20150106_210320.jpg
    IMG_20150106_210320.jpg
    89.2 KB
Did you remove the end cap and the spring before you removed the adjuster? If you didn't, the adjuster would go to the fully extended position as there is no chain for it to push against.
 
I did not. I thought it would retain it's position. I'll have to reinstall and remove correctly.
 
I've just removed the bolt and spring. Installed the tensioner. Re installed the spring and bolt. Turned the motor over a few times. Removed the bolt and spring, then the tensioner. And counted 13 notches. I suppose it's nearly maxed out. If this is correct procedure.
 
There is a yellow one in there now. What is the difference between the two?
 
the yellow/white blade starts at about 8 clicks so you need to go to the later black one. I do them.

the cam bearings are open so change them to ones with the seals on.
change the valve springs to DVSK. I do them.

check the inlets while you're there - they tulip badly.

grind in the exhausts and you watch you'll have dark spots on one side.

the valve stems look very good. the follower bearings don't look bad at all but you're feeling for any clonking in the up and down direction as they would sit on the cam. anything like 0.2mm+ and they need changing.

we half knock them out here and look at them. if they have gone dark grey on the underside - YOU MUST CHANGE THEM!

the auto decomp looks like the old model. even though you have a 2003 it looks like it is the old style.

they do a later decomp and I do a modified spring for that later decomp.

have a look at the end profile od the decomp "bump", does it look like a rowing boat or a dutch clog with a tiny dot hole in the middle?

pull your rocker shafts and check for wear. always put the best side on the south/lower side.

just check on the end of the cam for the profile number. it will either sat in 2mm numbers: 53 or it will say; 08

regards

Taffy
 
Thanks Taffy, I will check thoroughly tonight.

Does anyone have an idea on the cam chain itself? These two 'nicks' are worrying me. I wonder if there is a bit of something bouncing around the engine somewhere. I think i break a link and pull the head off.

Wish these cam chain had a master link, makes working on them a bugger. Im assuming based on everyones comments, the chain is stretched ? being that im at 13 clicks.

Taffy i may need to buy a bunch of parts from you, however our poor canadian dollar right now has taken a hell of a kick in the nutz. so your prices are double for me :(

Tim
 
yeh don't I know it!

you need to buy from my webshop and nowhere else. that has the VAT in the prices but when you checkout 20% falls off!

Taffy
 
OK great! heading to work now, but well talk later. Ill send a PM and we can set something up! I spent the last half hour looking at all the goodies you have for sale. :D
 
Quick update. I've found some time to dig a little deeper into the engine. On the Interior side cover in black marker is written. Linar 04/10 not sure of this was the person who rebuilt it and when. But there are other line up marks in black marker as well.

Everything looks pretty clean and the bearings I've checked seen to spin free with no play.

If anyone sees anything or has suggestions I'm all ears.

Thanks again
Tim
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20150110_152244.jpg
    IMG_20150110_152244.jpg
    90.9 KB
  • IMG_20150110_152309.jpg
    IMG_20150110_152309.jpg
    91.4 KB
  • IMG_20150110_154718.jpg
    IMG_20150110_154718.jpg
    86.5 KB
  • IMG_20150110_154749.jpg
    IMG_20150110_154749.jpg
    90.2 KB
  • IMG_20150110_155722.jpg
    IMG_20150110_155722.jpg
    93.1 KB
Is the visible wear on the cylinder walls something to be concerned about? I can't detect the marks by feel.
 
Yeah. I can't feel them even with my nail. That must have been from dust?

Is there a way to test the main crank bearings without pulling the cases? I want a good reliable bike for the next few seasons. So I'm not sure how far I go. However so far I haven't found any bad bearings or worn parts.
 
The dual valve spring kit. Does it make starting the bike any easier? And I mean for the electric starter. I can kick plus estart at the same time, and it fires right up. But won't do it on just electric.
 
the DVSK help with starting especially the leccy boot more than the kicker.

as for the mains, you can't tell from outside how many eyars they have but you can tell if they are gone simply by grabbing the crank with a big muhammed ali sized hand around the whole flywheel and clonking it up and down.

balls go quicker than roller I'm afraid but rollers fail when their isn't enough axial float.

and the oly way to tell which you have is to be prepared to wreck a crrank seal to flick one out and look-see.

up to you.

Taffy
 

Similar threads

F
FE570 low idle issue, outside of the usual suspects! (I think)
Replies
2
Views
441
AussieBlue
A
Z
03' fe400 ignition will not rev past 4,500 rpm
Replies
6
Views
1K
zgrant231
Z
K
AM fuel pump parts sourcing problems
Replies
1
Views
1K
o6550
o6550
H
FE650 2002 - Won't run properly
2 3
Replies
40
Views
6K
Taffy
Taffy
J
Looking at 2011 FS570 producing some steel shavings. What's likely wrong?
Replies
15
Views
2K
Junkie
J

Register CTA

Register on Husaberg Forum! This sidebar will go away, and you will see fewer ads.

Recent Discussions

Recent Discussions

Back
Top