Bad Autodecomp ? (FE 450 2005)

Hi guys !

I´ve had my Enduro-Berg for about a year and ran ~40 hurs on this little princess.

Prior to me it had been overhauled with bearings and so.
Previus owner said that thah was done just before 200 hours
200 was the meters reading for the milage and 74 was for the hours when I got it so i REALY dont know the actual hours on it.

During this time I have had som issues with overheating, electronics and so on.
But all is sorted out,
The bike has ALWAYS been easy to start, almost to easy compared to my FS650.
I have almost been able to get the kickstarter all the way down by hand, but as the bike has always run well and I have not felt any loss in power it have not worried me.

I have done a piston/bearing change on the 650 and changed the WP-seal on the 450, so im not all new to the engine or affraid to get my hands in there.


A few weeks ago I felt is was getting harder and harder to start when Cold.

so i decided to check the valve-clearance, have not checked it as the bike ran so great.

the clearance was 0 (zero) on all valves so I fixed it and put everyting back togehter.

after this the bike is REALY hard to kick, and the e-starter is simply to forget....


It does run great when I get it fired up, and have ran about an hour after the valve-check, so I know that I did nothing wrong in the clearance-service and the valves are hitting the piston...

Have spent a few hours here and searching old threads.
Have tried with another starter (modified from a R6 I had spare)
searched som more and checked the "starter clutch/free wheel" and can´t find anything wrong with it without disasembling the engine....

the I found some-tring about the auto-decomp in the thread.
and people telling writers to "check this before changing starters" and "does the kick-starter work fine" its not the starter.

so My question:

at the overhaul by the last owner, the autodecomp could have been assembled incorectly, and compensated with tight valving......

how do I verify that the autodecomp is acualy working ?

cant find any hints in the manual on assembling it, so it should not be able to get wrong ?

can they give up ?
upgrades of stock that it the best ?

Thanks !!


//Andreas
Sweden

Hi Andreas, the only way to check the auto decompression spring is to pull off the head cover, then with your hand check the auto decompressor, if it very loose then that's your problem. You need to change the spring.

A good idea is to check if the auto decompressor is worn, after 150-200 hours it tends to become disfunctional because the rocker bearing wears it down.

they often break + can cut some coils off a new spring to make it work better

check link below for pics

http://husaberg.org/mechanical/16121-decompression-spring-2.html

Thanks boys !!

That sounds promising !

Will spend the eavning in the garage, the girlfriend is threatening with sing-star with her girls "if I have nothing better to do"

Although, I am getting the hang of kickstarting it now, another hour on the meeter today out with the spikey-tires in te forrest today

Will show some pictures
The decompretainer is not a bolt, its welded !?
How much momentum is correct when autodecomp is working ?
How much wear is OK on the pieces ?

Decompressor keeps in place the bearing and spring.
There's no bolts or welds.

P-son

when you do the valves again try a little trick:
if you can't make 'morse code' and be heard 2m away they are tight. if you can hear morse code at 3m they are too loose.

I sell a modified auto decomp spring.

regards

Taffy

I recommend Taffy spring.
This is one of those in the picture.

thanks guys !

I saw now that teh exhaust-valves had been set wrong by me, or became loose.(did the adjustment with the cooler inplace, so it was realy tight !)

they were WAY-off now ehen I lifted the lid again...

could that be teh reason then, that the decomp is OK, not sure here.
should say that I coulndnt get pass TDC ? with the kick without using the decomp on the handlebar.....

how much wear is OK ?
there is sign of wear on both the "slegdehammer" and on the "cam-pin"

sorry about the bolt and welded stuff comment, but in t he the workshop manual I have printed (2004 ?) there is a bolt and nut, and instruktions to mount it with loctite ans 8 Nm.....
(page 43 in the 2005 Repair Manual)

decomp looks fine. if you pull it away from the center, does the spring pull it back thoroughly, or does it seem weak?

the camshaft doesn't look great but it will do. you need to check your cam follower bearings are OK and rolling freely?

the ADC looks fine as Ned says.

that rivet that stops the decomp when it is thrown open. well remove it OK? they are well known for falling out.

if that was my bike it would be head off, check the inlets for tuliping (they will be)
check all 4 for not seating correctly
check the stem tips for doming

new head gasket
2 new inlets
valve seats cut
two exhaust valves faced
set of my DVSK
my modified ADC spring
rivett out
new camchain if needed
a new 2005 cam chain tensioner blade
check for cupped tappet pads and if so replace

regards

Taffy

Took the complete out and took it with me to the local shop (KEVA Motor, Hässleholm, Sweden)
Charlie there looked at it and gave me a OK, meashured the AD with clock (should be a raise with 0,6-0,7mm) also OK
The spring felt OK he said

So We agreed that it probably was my own ****-up setting the exhaust-valves wrong (as I said they were WAY out when I checked them again) causing my ploblem.
So I shopped som spares, gaskets and so to get it back together and also some "First Racing gear" for myself and new ZETA-Barkbusters.
And went home quite satisfied

Taffy said:

the camshaft doesn't look great but it will do. you need to check your cam follower bearings are OK and rolling freely?

the ADC looks fine as Ned says.

Click to expand...

Charlie agreed also, and we measured it up OK.

Taffy said:

that rivet that stops the decomp when it is thrown open. well remove it OK? they are well known for falling out.

Click to expand...

As i wrote and posted picture, Its a modified cam-sprocket, its welded, wont nudge (done by previus owner)

Taffy said:

if that was my bike it would be head off, check the inlets for tuliping (they will be)
check all 4 for not seating correctly
check the stem tips for doming

new head gasket
2 new inlets
valve seats cut
two exhaust valves faced
set of my DVSK
my modified ADC spring
rivett out
new camchain if needed
a new 2005 cam chain tensioner blade
check for cupped tappet pads and if so replace

regards

Taffy

Click to expand...

will leave it for next overhaul, whenever that happens, maybe during summer, when I´m riding more with the trackbike and FS



Yesterday when I came home after the KEVA-visit I got everything back togehter, everything but the rear chain, will pick that up by friday.

now I just came in from a start-up (first after yesterdays asembling) and I have a smile on my face

Starts beautiful again on both kick and e-starter.

So happy, sounds great again !

New rear sprocket on friday and hit the trail on saturday !! :spin:


Happy New Year !!:giggle:

did you try my little trick?

Taffy

did you try my little trick?

Click to expand...

i think that will get you arrested in sweden....:unsure:

probably the only place it is legal.....

Taffy

Taffy said:

P-son

when you do the valves again try a little trick:
if you can't make 'morse code' and be heard 2m away they are tight. if you can hear morse code at 3m they are too loose.

I sell a modified auto decomp spring.

regards

Taffy

Click to expand...

Taffy said:

did you try my little trick?

Taffy

Click to expand...

forgot about that, will try it tomorrow when riding