Caliper stuck on rear break

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Joined
Sep 30, 2014
Messages
3
Location
Sweden
I’m having trouble taking my rear break apart on my FE 450 -10
My calipers are no longer floating, one of the metal pins/rubber bushings are stuck. I’ll attach a picture to show where the problem is.
What’s the best way to fix this, I cant get it apart…
 

Attachments

  • broms.jpg
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kits are available

kit 1 is the spring clip that holds the pads down as well as the pins and R clips
kit 2 would be the floating rubbers etc
kit 3 would be a piston rebuild kit.

I've been here 13 years and you're the first I've seen that asked about this yet I raced my 570 for three seasons and got through two sets.

welcome to my world and I'm going to give you my very first "Thanks" coz you've made my day!

regards

Taffy
 
welcome to my world and I'm going to give you my very first "Thanks" coz you've made my day!

regards

Taffy

You are welcome :) however... The kits will not help me untill I can tear the break apart. Yesterday I managed to remove the other pin/rubber bushing, that made it possible to wiggle the stuck one a bit, unfortunatly it wiggles on the piston side not where it is supposed to -.-

I sprayed it with WD-40 and let it sit for the night. This morning it was still stuck...

Tonight I will try heat and a hammer...
 
I finally managed to pull my breaks apart(it turns out they where stuck on the front breaks too).

I used rust dissolvant, wd-40, the freezer, fire, a vice and a small crowbar...

Anyway keep your breaks well lubricated, you don't want to go thru this process to get them apart...
 
awesome.. its always uplifting to beat the problem of a rusted part.

there is one can of magic spray that does help brake caliper pins and rusty bolts

its called reducteur h72

221060382509098.jpg


spray on once every 30 min over the day ..

Ive tried just about everything else in a can that is supposed to help .. none of them do much except this stuff.
 
I've done a bit of searching and cannot find this product in the U.S.

Has anyone ever seen it?

We have a product called Marvel Mystery Oil that will dissolve rust. My guess is that reducteur h72 uses a similar base oil and additives. The base oil of MMO is similar to ATF.
 
im not sure what the active ingredient is, trying to find out

it doesn't smell or act like the phosphoric acid in most rust converters and apparently has no oil.

unfortunate its not easy to get in the USA.. there must be an eqivalent

Reducteur H-72
Super releasing agent

Why Reducteur H-72?
Dismantling of compounds that are stuck due to rust or chemical oxidation is often a problem. Especially when ordinary penetrating oil does not work. What happens next is well known: the bolt or other connection breaks and needs to be drilled out. A waste of time and often expensive equipment!
Reducteur H-72 is used for many year now. releasing normal bolt-nut connections, but also for the dismantling of the major axes of the steel industry.
Reducteur H72 contains no oil, needs (usually 1-2 minutes) to do his work, is non-toxic and does not affect the skin. Reducteur H72 doesn’t affects the metal or other substances like Neoprene, Viton or Teflon.

Acts upon the allotropic types of hydrated iron sesquioxides Fe2 - Fe3O4 - FeO


Examples;
All threaded joints, axes, valves, valve plugs, cable glands, bearing bushes, hinge joints, muscle joints, flanges, drive chains, etc.

instructions;
Remove grease, dirt, or already applied penetrating oil (for example with a solvent). Spray Reducteur H72 on the rusted surface. Do not use a brush. After a few minutes loosening can begin. Use a sufficiently heavy pliers or wrench, which has plenty of pulling power. Treat heavily rusted parts a second time with Reducteur H-72 and continue pulling. It is important that the product reaches the layer of rust as good as possible.

preventive effect;
Because Reducteur H-72 also prevents the components from getting stuck by rust it is also used preventive during assembly.

Packing: Size 300ML Aerosol

good stuff but it doesn't work as quickly as they claim
 
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