Assemble timing chain with new tensioner blade - fail!

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J

Johost03

Joined
Aug 6, 2012
Messages
9
Location
Skövde, Sweden
I just replaced the timing chain on my Husaberg FS 650 02. I also replaced both cam bearings, the auto decomp and spring to the modified/newer ones. I also changed the cam chain tensioner blade to the black one. Snapped the knob of the cam chain tensioner. The problem however, is that when i tighten the tensioner blade top bolt it straightens up and presses the tensioner blade towards the cam chain and the cam chain sprocket to the extent that i can´t even move it with force. So the question i have is, does anybody know if I have to modifie the tensioner blade itself, the stepped bushing or any other part to make it work?

Best regards/ Johan
 
look in the "owners doc" at the left on the home page. under engine upgrades and cam slipper(?) you will see what needs to be done
 
I´ve read that section several times. It doesn´t really say what needs too be done. Since i bought the slipper from Taffy it´s already modified in the sense that the little ridge on the slipper has been grinded down. My initial idea would be to make the bushing or the slipper hole oval to make more room on a horizontal level in order to put less pressure towards the cam sprocket. This doesn´t feel quite right though since if there is more room for the bolt to move around the wear would increase on either the slipper or the bolt.

The owner´s doc says:
Cam slipper (tensioner)
"An upgrade for 2000-02. Timing Chain slipper (tension arm) 800.36.002.000. Stepped Bushing (requires modification) 800.36.002.050. The two diagrams below show the early yellow and the banana black. "

I changed the early yellow one and now have the "banana black" with the original stepped bushing, bolt and threadlock nut.

thanks for the reference Ned!
 
Hello Joha

the shouldered spacer goes between the blade and the wall.

simples!

Taffy
 
The shouldered spacer is where its supposed to be i think. Described from the left the order of the parts are as follows: Bolt head, wall, shouldered spacer, cam chain slipper and finally the lock nut. Just as the original setup. The problem is since the new slipper is thicker then the original, the bolt, when torqued, tightens the slipper and presses it towards the sprocket/chain. When tightened the bolt goes from an 60 degree angle to an 90 degree angle with the wall as reference, and puts pressure on the chain.
The first is when its tightend, the bottom one when its loose,
 

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your blade should have had some of my crude grinding work done for the first 30mm?

did you not have it?

that is certainly what you need anyway...

regards

Taffy
 
just file the blade head thinner 'til it is barely free when torqued
 
No such work has been done. The ridge around the hole has been remowed but thats it. I´ll get right on it with a file till it fits. Thanks guys!
 

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