lesjive said:
I don't know what you mean by "nipple". I got the threaded portion, coming from the top of the spring guide, the rod is inside it, protruding a few mm, the cap is still a mystery, is that what you're talking about taking apart?
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I don't know what you mean by "nipple". I got the threaded portion, coming from the top of the spring guide, the rod is inside it, protruding a few mm, the cap is still a mystery, is that what you're talking about taking apart?
I think I see. I read your first post again, Les, and watched the video. He has a pair of thin pliers ("special tool") that he used to hold the threaded tube. When the cap is down, he still has space between the top of the spring guide and the cap, that's clear in the video. Mine is not like that, it threads right up against the nut atop the spring guide and bottoms there.
Sorry to hear your still having problems, frustrating too say the least.
Do you have any KTM riding friends in your area?
Forks are the same, maybe they could shed some light.
Or you could take a week off, fly on over to N.Cal and we could sort it all out .. :wink:
Trails are just above freezing in the Sierra's- the sound of ice crunching under your tires is kinda therapeutic this time of year.. :bounce:
BTW, gotcha Bushy- my curt reply was meant for Taffy's post.
Taffy, here's an example of my look on life..
Or, I could just go with the EVIL eye..
Do you have any KTM riding friends in your area?
Forks are the same, maybe they could shed some light.
Or you could take a week off, fly on over to N.Cal and we could sort it all out .. :wink:
Trails are just above freezing in the Sierra's- the sound of ice crunching under your tires is kinda therapeutic this time of year.. :bounce:
BTW, gotcha Bushy- my curt reply was meant for Taffy's post.
Taffy, here's an example of my look on life..
Or, I could just go with the EVIL eye..
Nice pics, Les. I'm learning as I go, and I'll get it sorted out or send it off. The only frustrating things are, I should have been doing this in November and discovered the problems then, since I'm going to miss my race it looks like. That, and paying someone a nice chunk of change to do it wrong.
I'm gonna take the other one apart tonight, see if I can decipher the mystery of the cap. When I turn the adjuster, something should change, unless there are fine threads in there that are boogered up. That's why there's a plastic knob, so you won't bottom out the rod and strip the threads.
The first time this bike came from this guy, I had to use pliers to turn the plastic knob on one side. That may be the cap I'm dealing with now, that doesn't seem to work at all, it may have gotten broken back then.
Someone called late last night (eastern time), it was probably Dale. I was already out.
I'm gonna take the other one apart tonight, see if I can decipher the mystery of the cap. When I turn the adjuster, something should change, unless there are fine threads in there that are boogered up. That's why there's a plastic knob, so you won't bottom out the rod and strip the threads.
The first time this bike came from this guy, I had to use pliers to turn the plastic knob on one side. That may be the cap I'm dealing with now, that doesn't seem to work at all, it may have gotten broken back then.
Someone called late last night (eastern time), it was probably Dale. I was already out.
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Taffy said:
maybe this only works if you're revving the bike really really hard ? kinda like a sonic screwdriver
Next question
Next stupid question - everything I've seen shows setting fork oil level relative to the top of the outside tube, so I assume the "110 mm", "115 mm", etc. is measured from the top of the outside tube, correct?
I was told it was measured from the top of the inside tube. I have to think that if this were true, it would be pointed out clearly any time it came up, since that is counter-intuitive, and contrary to the demonstration pictures or video.
Next stupid question - everything I've seen shows setting fork oil level relative to the top of the outside tube, so I assume the "110 mm", "115 mm", etc. is measured from the top of the outside tube, correct?
I was told it was measured from the top of the inside tube. I have to think that if this were true, it would be pointed out clearly any time it came up, since that is counter-intuitive, and contrary to the demonstration pictures or video.
Re: Next question
That would depend on whether you have conventional or USD forks. Remove spring, fully compress the fork, and measure down from the top to the oil surface, be it inner (conventional) or outer (USD). Simplest to use a syringe and tube, slightly over fill, put a zip tie on the tube at the level you want, and suck out to the level required.
Steve
OldNewbie said:
That would depend on whether you have conventional or USD forks. Remove spring, fully compress the fork, and measure down from the top to the oil surface, be it inner (conventional) or outer (USD). Simplest to use a syringe and tube, slightly over fill, put a zip tie on the tube at the level you want, and suck out to the level required.
Steve
Thanks, Steve, that makes sense.
If the forks are conventional, the top tube would be the inside tube, and it's going to protrude when pushed all the way down, and you measure from there.
If the forks are USD (up side down), which mine are, then you again compress, measure from the top of the highest tube, which in this case is the outer, or upper tube.
Do I have it?
If the forks are conventional, the top tube would be the inside tube, and it's going to protrude when pushed all the way down, and you measure from there.
If the forks are USD (up side down), which mine are, then you again compress, measure from the top of the highest tube, which in this case is the outer, or upper tube.
Do I have it?
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