Ran out of clicks!

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OldNewbie

Joined
Jun 15, 2010
Messages
216
Location
Anderson, Indiana, USA
Has anyone seen this before?

The right fork rebound clicker has something like 40 clicks, the left one has around 20.

Just had the suspension re-done, I advised the tech of this and told him to take a look. After I got it all back I asked, he kinda just shrugged that he didn't see anything amiss...

Should I still count clicks from fully clockwise and consider both sides to be adjusted the same?

This might be hard to explain to me, being ignorant of fork anatomy. Probably need to study up on it.
 
the rebound assembly has been put together in the wrong synch.

remove the fork cap from inside the leg and then also off the shaft. you'll need to pull the spring down and put a 22mm open ender on it and then a 24mm on the top nut.

when all undone you need to turn the rebound anti-clockwise till you have the black plastic inside all the way up and deeper than the copper threads you can see.

if nothing is turning it is because the black knob has disconnected from the black nipple underneath. so pop the adjuster up with a couple of flat bladed screwdrivers. now 2 ball bearing COULD ping off so I suggest doing this using a vice and a plastic bag over the cap. use the screwdrivers to dislodge the adjuster then cover with the see-through bag a remove. you'll see 2 x 2mm ball bearings and a tiny spring.

so back to what we needed to do before: use a philips screwdriver to get the nipple higher so when you put the adjuster back in they are connected.

yer man's problem is that the two disconneted from each other.

when refitting you always have the nipple as deep as you can so you can see the copper coloured threads. then refit the cap on the shaft and tighten the spring guide up, then the cap down and in the fork.

then you adjust the rebound all the way closed (to zero) and then re-open the set amount.

this is what he failed to do.

regards

Taffy
 
As previously posted, unscrew the cap from the fork, then remove the cap from the rod, then remove the spring.
That long big black thing (Spring guide) that jams up against the cap needs to be threaded all the way down before you install the spring and cap. Install the spring, thread the cap down till it bottoms, you should still have a little distance between the cap and the long black thing. Afterthe cap bottoms, thread the them together.

heres a vid..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=glG3gUjx ... r_embedded
 
OK, my (now) former suspension guy blew me off after saying he'd fix this today, so I've been F'ed enough now.

I'm ready to buy tools and start doing it myself. I don't think I have time to send it off now, I have a race in 3 weeks. Might have been nice to have time to tune a little.

What special tools do I need to fix this problem? Just a 4-pin socket?

I should check the oil level while I'm in there, so I'll get one of those gadgets.

Probably he used cheap springs, I should probably just replace those.
 
One fork does as described, only 18 clicks; the other goes forever.

So the other fork is disconnected completely inside. I read that riding with it this way can do major damage. Is this true with my type of fork?
 
you need to chill a bit mate.

4 pin socket? so you have the pre-loadable forks then?

yes you need to get that cap undone. best way ids to undo the pinch bolts on the top clamp and then use the tool. only afterwards do you remove the fork leg.

that should be your only special tool. however, I have my own parrot and he may be along any minute with a slightly similar story.

the previous instructions were meticulous so please follow them. have a look at the doc and the leg there is very similar.

regards

Taffy
 
squark!! squark! arghh scuttle the ship squark!! we're under attack 8O 8O 8O spill the treasure save the salt :lol:

the fork cap will usually come undone if you back the preload nut right off and then turn it a bit more, id try that first before buying a pin tool, make sure the triple clamp is loose at the top FWIW there are adjustable angle grinder pin tools you can get in hardware stores.

the vid polly parrot put up before shows you everything you need to know for an easy fix , shouldn't need to disassemble the clicker assy from the cap.

try looking at a parts schematic of the fork it might help visualise it.
 
I am not a Parrot.
I've been riding, racing and wrenching since '67 and still going at 60.
All I was trying to do was offer info in an easily understandible way...
If that gets your panties in a wad, grow a pair..
 
lesjive said:
I am not a Parrot.
I've been riding, racing and wrenching since '67 and still going at 60.
All I was trying to do was offer info in an easily understandible way...
If that gets your panties in a wad, grow a pair..
Click to expand...

He probably thought Taffy put it up. The video was a big help in understanding that the forks were put together wrong, and that I can fix it myself.
 
however, I have my own parrot and he may be along any minute with a slightly similar story.
Click to expand...
relax, lesjive. he wasn't talking about you
squark!! squark! arghh scuttle the ship squark!! we're under attack 8O 8O 8O spill the treasure save the salt :lol:
Click to expand...
you guys are a hoot!
my understanding is that abbott and costello didn't care for each other either :bounce:
 
sorry if I gave you the wrong idea there lesjive

FWIW I only take shots at Taff these days, don't have time to poop on anyone else :twisted:

the vid is great and this site needs people like you to contribute

my reference to "polly parrot" is supposed to make taffy look like a ****. he is implying that all you did was repeat his advice but really the video you put up is more usefull than 300 pages of bollicks tosh and "advice" from cackhanded numpties :D

@ned, Taffy was indeed implying lesjive to be a parrot, he calls me much worse. FWIW we have someone in power who is orinally from wales .... Im not normally one for drawing similarities to politics with internet characters but your comment above planted the seed so to speak :D

164918-julia-gillard.jpg
 
Alright, back to biz, guys. I'm lost. How do you post pictures....crap. Should have just made a video and upload to youtube. I'll see if the helmet cam has any charge after all these months. Ok, wait, what's this.... OK, here's the cap assembly, and note the printout of Taffy's instructions laying in the toolbox....
 

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Here's the black adjuster knob which, through the detent / ball and spring, works the hex adjuster in the middle. If I put my finger on the threaded adjuster underneath, (in the picture from the last post), and turn the black knob or the hex in the middle, I do NOT feel the threaded adjuster turning. Nothing happens on the bottom side.
 

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Here's the rod pulled from the center. I expected, from what little I've read so far, to see a tapered valve needle on the end....
 

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OK, so things don't look as I expected, and the adjuster doo-dad isn't turning when I turn the knob, otherwise I'd scope out how it all works and eventually figure out how to re-assemble it "in synch". For now I'll go out and fiddle with it, drink another brewsky and see what you guys come up with. Thanks.
 
Try screwing that little nipple back up into the cap til it comes in contact with the adjuster knob, then, keeping pressure on the nipple, turn the adjuster knob CCW and hopefully it will grab the nipple part and suck it back up.
The worst case is you'll have to disassemble the whole thing. Easy to take apart, a real ***** to get the spring and balls back in. I've used tweezers to hold both balls in while installing the knob, doing it over a big kitty litter style tub helps from loosing parts.
There should be nothing attached to that rod when you pull it out. It's just a big long rod that pushes down on the rebound components further down in the fork.
 
OK, progress. The threaded adjuster thing is not threaded, it's just a brass peg. The peg fits into the center of the rebound adjustment rod. The bottom of the rod presses against a spring loaded tapered valve. There's a shoulder inside the cap, that the peg protrudes from, the shoulder rests against the rod. When I turn the hex adjuster or the black knob on the outside of the cap, the shoulder moves and pushes on the rod, that pushes on the valve. Now I get it.

No, I don't. Full clockwise, I get a measurement of 10.7 mm from the shoulder to the top of the hole.

10 clicks counterclockwise, I have 10.74 mm.

10 more clicks ccw, I get 10.66 mm.

10 more, 10.72.

Should I take the cap apart? Seems some of those fine threads might be stripped. The chassis manual doesn't show the components, only the cap....
 

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