Ocotillo Boy said:
2011 FE390.....
Anything I need to know or do to this bike??
Is the mapping "opened" up stock or is it choked up?
Any pre ride fixes I need to know about?
Anybody know a GOOD suspension Co for Husabergs in So Cal?
I live in Phelan about 2 miles from the sand hill so I have ENDLESS trails by my house right out my back door!!
I just did a 5 mile ride and I think I'm REALLY gonna like this bike! It's a billy goat with awesome engine braking!
How long do I have to be nice to the motor??
Thanks, OB :cheers:
[attachment=0:2nwg4bu4]misc 054.JPG[/attachment:2nwg4bu4]
Hey Ocotillo,
Unless your dealer put in the "closed course" map, the bike will be running on the lean side. See if you can get them to flash it to the closed course map for you.
If you have the money, put on a good slip on muffler, I prefer the Akraprovic, great sound and they breath a lot better than the stocker.
I would pull the tank and sub frame, and take a cheapo front inner tube, cut it to fit, and wrap the wiring loom from the battery box all the way up past where it goes over the motor to prevent any chaffing and resulting shorts. The "factory" team does this, and I have done this to my bikes as well.
While you have the tank and sub frame off, put some die electric grease on every single connector you can find on your bike, this will pay huge dividends in the long run. Its a pain, but, well worth it.
Another thing you can do while you have the tank and sub frame off is to get some DEI titainium header wrap and wrap the mid pipe all the way down to where it meets the muffler. This will help a lot with radiated heat from the mid pipe.
See this thread here:
viewtopic.php?f=25&t=14199 This will keep all the crud from going into the weep hole and causing your water pump shat and water pump seal to wear out prematurely.
I have an old school mentality I guess as far as motor break in goes. I follow what the manual says as far as motor break in goes, and it is very conservative.
Max rpm during first 3 hours 7,000.
Max power during first 3 hours less than 50%
Max power during the next 12 hours less than 75%
Avoid fully opening throttle!
Do the first oil change at 1 hour, 3 hours, and then every 15 hours after that per the manual, and as a previous poster said be sure and clean the screens, both of my 09's had what looked like some kind of clear stuff on them that rolled up into basically nothing when touched. On the first oil change there will be stuff on the magnet as well, this will decrease to almost nothing by the 3 rd oil change. FWIW, I change my oil everytime I ride my bike, with every ride meaning 5 or 6 hours and 70-80 miles. I use Motul 5100 15W-50, and have for years with great results.
Check the valves per the manual at I think 3 hours, and then again at 15 hours, then 30 hours. After that it's every 90 hours. There are reports of people with hundreds of hours on these motors with out the valve lash changing. So do the up front checks to make sure everything is golden and you are good to go for a long time.
Buy yourself a Profill Australia filter for your tank. This will keep dirt and crap out of your tank and dramatically increase the filter life of your in tank filters.
Keep the air filter clean, as well as the oil, and this bike should give you several hundred hours of trouble free riding. UHE member Dustbite runs a tour company down in Portugal, and has 2 570's and two 450's, he put roughly 500 hours on each of them before having to re ring them. He did some basic stuff like changing the exhaust valve shims every so often b/c they would warp, but, they are still running the original bottom ends and clutches.
Dale
