1998 fe 600 timing issue

i am currently working on my husaberg fe 600 and it back fires and is real hard starting. i pulled the flywheel cover off and found top tdc and the flywheel marks dont seam right. I have a pdf i found off this site and it shows the flywheel in a total different location than what my bike shows. here are some pics showing my flywheel at tdc what do you guys think is wrong. i will also attach the pdf i found.

i had two '98 400s and one 600. had the flywheel off the 400s several times, but never the 600. one might think they were the same. on the 400s the hole for the timing mark was at 6 o'clock. yours is at 10.??? when timing, the pin goes thru the hole and engages the slot in the stator (see pic). put a pin that fits in the hole, try to engage it in the timing slot (wiggle the flywheel back and forth to see if it engages: sounds dirty, i know :roll: ) if not, i would pull the flywheel and see where the slot is on your stator and if the key is ok.
[attachment=0:ifdobyg7]sem timing.JPG[/attachment:ifdobyg7]

My first thought is that the flywheel key may have sheared and the flywheel spun which would advance the ignition. Did you determine that the piston is at TDC when the flywheel is in the position shown in your pictures? If so, a sheared flywheel key is your problem.

i am sure it is a tdc i checked more than a few times, the key being broke makes sense because it does backfire badly. got a puller comming will take it off as soon as posible. thanks for the help again.

your timing marks appear exactly as mine did, i thought the previous owner center punched them and reset them to the doc spec's by rotating with degree wheel etc. (he told me to look here for info when i bought it) i checked them with the same method, with degree wheel and by putting a skinny long screw driver in the plug hole and very very carefullly rotating engine to determe tdc and also rotating engine with a .ooo dial indicator. i found that the timing was 1 tooth off because of the camshaft chain being out of adjustment from previous rebuild by original owner), mine would start easy with the button and accelerate ok from idle but would misfire and fall on its face bad (untill letting off the throttle) at 4500rpm ish, if accelerating slowly then maybe would get a little higher before is would misfire or faster if accelerating faster, once you get your puller wou can see whet the stator looks like but adjusting it to max limits on both sides made no difference for me, if you remove the cylinder head cover completely so you can see the camshaft the timing mark on the camshaft sproket and should be exactly 90 degree angle from the top of the head when the dial indicator/screw driver/ timing mark on flywheel is showing tdc. when you use your puller dont forget that you have to turn the nut clockwise to remove the flywheel hold down nut from the shaft. my flywheel appears just like yours the timing hole at 8.5-9ish oclock maybe ten oclock? if you need pictures i could try to help, i suck at using cameras and computers and especially connecting them together for a common goal like sending pictures with a computer but i will if you need more help, i also assume you have gone through the carb and is super clean, have a phm 40, and all is good, new cr8e spark plug, air filters good etc.
when does it back fire?
hard start hot and cold?

Hi Scott

Are you shure its the timing ? it can be other stuff. You should also look at the carb and the auto decomp.

Before doing anything else check stator values.

For the start check carb, jetting and auto decomp spring, also you can try to update for the new auto decomp, and the backfire can also be the carb or a leak on the exhaust.

You can search in older posts I have a PDF about the timing, and you can also try the timing with a strobe.

:cheers:
ZAGA

zaga's timing pdf file appeared last in:
"ignition timing for FC501 with electric starter", i tried to find it last night
but i think it must be saved on my old computer, search for the above post
then you can find zaga's brilliant step by step timing file, i printed it out also
and keep it with my service manual because its easier to follow than the service
manual description

hey thanks for the input it may be just the carb, the carb is not stock it is a keihin carb. when the i bought the bike it backfired when starting but ran like a champ once started. I brought it home but have not had it started sense i bought it. I talked to my friend who is carb guy and he says the keihin is a much better carb than the stock one but I am contemplating getting a stock carb off ebay and trying that.

Hi
The carb is one FCR ? You have a lot of info about this, and it's possible to cure it.

Let us know the jetting.

On the starting don't forget the auto decomp, it's important.

:cheers:
ZAGA

its not a FCR, I wish it was it is a pwk which from my research is a 2 stroke carb so I ordered a stock carb off ebay that should help fix the problem, but I do seam to have a timing issue. The hole that you use to match the stator to the flywheel does not match up and seams to be about 15 degrees off which tells me I may have a sheared key. last my bike is electric start so I dont think it has a decompression feature.I do appreciate all the help and hope when I get the flywheel removal tool that i will get to the bottom of the problem.

Thanks again for the help

Hi Scott

When you have the new carb, you have here all the info that you need to set it right, my advice is to prepare yourself to buy new jets specialy the needle and atomiser, because you don't know the condition of the ones that will come, and they wear and you can't tell. Can talk about that latter.

About the timming here it is again the old doc that I've made:
[attachment=0:3o2kl7xh]HUSABERG PRE 99_IGNITION TIMMING.pdf[/attachment:3o2kl7xh]

If you don't find the hole, your stator might be off position, but you only can tell when you take the flywheel.

You also have to be carefull finding the TDC, can be done several ways, and if you have a strobe light should check with that.

About decomp, your bike like mine only has the decomp on the cam, no manual or kick decomp. So that one is very important, you have to check the spring and almost shure change it for a stronger one, ask Taffy for one. And check if the half moon that is on the cam loeb has wear out. You can also upgrade for a new auto decomp, but might need some changes on the cam.

:cheers:
ZAGA

Zaga,

Thanks for the PDF, after looking at your pdf i think my timing is fine. I made up a pdf showing what my flywheel alignment is like at tdc and it seams to correspond with what you have (see attachment). I think the timing is good and I need to move on to the carburator. What would you jet it too for an elevation of 6000 to 10000 feet. This way I can get some comming while I check the decompression spring and cam. Thanks again for all the help.

Scott

Hi scott

Very good drawing. But I don't know if your are missing the point, now with the flywheel in that position you have to check the stator position compared to the flywheel, using a drill through the hole of the flywheel. Now that drill should go inside of the flywheel and find the hole of the stator, that is the correct position of the stator. You might have to take the flywheel several times to ajust the stator to the correct position.

Hope its clear, I'm not English :|

This can be just a starting point, if you want to go further, after the first set up that should be fine to start the bike, using the mark on the engine case and the mark of flywheel on TDC, you use a strobe light to refine your set up. If you can get one strobe we can talk about that.

:cheers:
ZAGA

Zaga,

looking at your pdf I now think I understand, the tdc is the casting mark on the flywheel and the timing mark is the hand made mark on the flywheel. I need to turn the motor the 33 degrees to match the timing mark with the one on the case then that will align the stator by using the drill bit for alignment. I have just been looking at things wrong perhaps or maybe i have been working on hot rods too long and have forgoten how to work on a bike.

thanks again

Scott

Maybe my doc its not so clear, when you align the hand made mark of the flywheel with the mark of the engine case, you should be at 33º BTDC.
Then using the drill you set up the stator position, with the hand made mark aligned.

Hope its clear now

:cheers:
ZAGA

Scott

I've used your drawing, could you make a new one so I can try to make a better doc?

[attachment=0:14p49f3w]DOC120105-002.pdf[/attachment:14p49f3w]

Thanks
ZAGA

Zaga,

Here's two pdf files for your use let me know if which one is more correct.

Scott

Hi

The second (fly..2) its better,, but the 33,6 its not º(deg), its mm.

:cheers:
ZAGA

Zaga,

Here corrected figure for your use hope it is correct.

Regards,

Hi Scott

That is correct.

I'm thinking of making a new doc, joining some information that I have.

If its not much trouble could you make a new drawing ? Now it would be the same but with the flywheel aligning the mark of the engine case with the ignition mark (view at the ignition mark)

Thanks
ZAGA