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Sounds like an intermittent short somewhere. The question is where. Check the common failure areas first - behind the headlight shround, around the steering stem, and down by the shock. If that doesn't find it, you may just have to carefully inspect the entire wiring harness and look for wear spots.
If you have a multi-meter with a continuity buzzer connect it to the fuse holder (with the fuse out) and to ground. Then start wiggling wires and listen for the buzzer. If it goes off, that should help you zero in on it.
If you have a multi-meter with a continuity buzzer connect it to the fuse holder (with the fuse out) and to ground. Then start wiggling wires and listen for the buzzer. If it goes off, that should help you zero in on it.
Hey Barshoe,
The 2009 and 2010 models did not have a Fuse 5. They only have the 20A Fuse in the Starter Relay and Fuses 1 to 4 in the Fuse Box.
Are you sure it is Fuse 5? Maybe they have changed something in the 2011 models?
:scratch:
Davo.
The 2009 and 2010 models did not have a Fuse 5. They only have the 20A Fuse in the Starter Relay and Fuses 1 to 4 in the Fuse Box.
Are you sure it is Fuse 5? Maybe they have changed something in the 2011 models?
:scratch:
Davo.
The fuse block is numbered, 1-5. This is the street legal version so of course its different
from the 09, 10. More electronics. The #5 is the main ignition, start fuse. They are all 10
amp fuses. Any input is appreciated.
from the 09, 10. More electronics. The #5 is the main ignition, start fuse. They are all 10
amp fuses. Any input is appreciated.
Hi,
Have you had the fuel tank off?
If so, check if the fuel pump wires have been touching the mid pipe. You have to be carefull when refitting the tank that they dont touch the pipe and burn. This will cause the fuse to blow when ever you hit the starter button.
Hope this Helps?
Cheers
Have you had the fuel tank off?
If so, check if the fuel pump wires have been touching the mid pipe. You have to be carefull when refitting the tank that they dont touch the pipe and burn. This will cause the fuse to blow when ever you hit the starter button.
Hope this Helps?
Cheers
I see what the problem is with your wiring , the steering damper bracket around your stem is rubbing on your wiring so you have to bend the harness that holds your wiring up as much as you can to avoid rubbing on the wiring or it will do it again and damage more wiring . Test it with your headlight shroud off and movemback and forth to see if it misses all the wiring .problem is the damper bracket bolt on the Scott damper is directly behind the wiring as a msr damper for example is on the side which avoids everything.
Glad to hear you sorted the problem.
I'm having issues with fuse #3 which among other things is the "running lights". I put in a new 10 amp fuse and it holds good for a few blocks and burns out, AND now it sets off the #5 fuse when it goes and the bike dies. When I put a fresh #5 in I have no issue and the bike runs, but as the #3 is blown I'm without the #3 and everything it controls.
So I've an intermittent short, the worst kind to hunt down! :?
I'm having issues with fuse #3 which among other things is the "running lights". I put in a new 10 amp fuse and it holds good for a few blocks and burns out, AND now it sets off the #5 fuse when it goes and the bike dies. When I put a fresh #5 in I have no issue and the bike runs, but as the #3 is blown I'm without the #3 and everything it controls.
So I've an intermittent short, the worst kind to hunt down! :?
titan said:
Actually, at this point, having re-routed and triple taped the loom plus fixing an inter-tube barrier between
the wiring harness and steering bracket, I feel pretty safe. Yea Ropedrag, I've had the 3 fuse tank also. No lights.
Luckily, it was off road, in the morning and didn't matter. Still a real pisser for an $11,000 bike to be doing this!
I just mounted a Scotts steering damper on my bike, along with an additional 10 mm of bar riser (for a total of 35mm). I took two small angle brackets and bent it kind of like a Z and mounted the speedometer with this offset bracket. It moved the wiring harness about 1/2" forward and raised the speedometer about 1". It makes it much easier to read the speedo with the raised bars. I also wrapped the wiring harness with an old piece of inner tube to protect them from the damper clamp.
Found my issue as well, damn Scotts damper bracket eating through wire sheathing. The bare wire is so close to the plug that I'm afraid my repair will be a bit "ghetto", and then I'll need to figure out how to shim out the connector holder plate to gain some clearance as well, *$#@%!&&!
On a positive note, I checked my valve(s) clearance and its within spec.
On a positive note, I checked my valve(s) clearance and its within spec.
- Joined
- Nov 21, 2011
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Quick question,
I had the fuel pump fuse blow out, checked and it looks like the wiring was resting on the heat shield of the pipe and popping after the bike warmed up. I zip tied the wires loosely to the fuel line, but am considering adding some kind of insulation between the two to keep this from happening again. Any ideas or suggestions?
I had the fuel pump fuse blow out, checked and it looks like the wiring was resting on the heat shield of the pipe and popping after the bike warmed up. I zip tied the wires loosely to the fuel line, but am considering adding some kind of insulation between the two to keep this from happening again. Any ideas or suggestions?
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