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How to repair/refresh conrod 2005 650

jmscrttndn

jmscrttndn

Joined Jan 2015
277 Posts | 157+
Winnipeg, Canada
Hello,

I am trying to do a refresh on my conrod. Having never done this type of work before, I am not sure what is involved. The manual lists part 82030015100 Conrod Repair Kit ($450). This appears to include an all new:

[I expect my terminology to be off, please correct me.]

-rod
-little end "sleeve"?
-big end Gudgeon pin/wrist pin
-big end bearing
-and a small circular part

L8nfVIY.png


Basically, I want to know if I need this whole kit, or if I can just replace the bearing and maybe sleeve? Please run me thru a breakdown of what I would require. BTW, I intend to get a local shop to do the work, but I need to know what parts to buy.

The manual says to:
-Check eccentricity of crankshaft journal
-Replace conrod bearing
-Check piston pin bearing

Thanks!
 
yes everything you need is in #19

if you are lucky you might be able to replace the bearing only which is available from pro_X there are also PEEK coated cage bearings around.. see last pages of Dr_Cs cylinder head thread for skf part numbers

but the decision on what to replace should be made by the person rebuilding the crank after it has been disassembled.

its not difficult if you have some dial guages, a press, patience and some grasp of logical thought :D

http://husaberg.org/mechanical/17329-balancing-80mm-650-crank.html
 
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Hi Bush,

Thanks. Again, it seems weird to me that the rod itself has to be replaced... why is this? doesn't the bearing take the load (and wear), but the rod itself stays relatively untouched?

What would determine if the rod is knackered? Out-of-round on the journal faces?

Doing a "refresh/rebuild" just got 50% more expensive knowing that the entire "kit" must be purchased.
 
the wear is usually from the bearing cage

they are silver plated which is a nice idea.. it melts and provides lube if things get hot

after a while say 150 to 200 hard hrs the silver coating wears off and then the cage starts to wear out the inside of the rod.

the cage doesn't contact the ID of the rod evenly so it wears annular steps into the rod

with an uneven surface to press on, the rollers experience higher loads and palling starts.

you can get the parts separately as aftermarket and this may be an option depending on the condition of the rod, get it all apart first and check it out
 
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the bearing and pin are similar, rod is not.

best option for the 650 is the oem rod its really not that bad compared to the other capacities and its still available so get 2 :D
 
I did a rebuild twice on my 450, first when I got it after the previous owner and the WEC had it ,was just plain wore out. The second time was my fault, and that time I had to replace my Con Rod, the first price I got was $805. cdn, I think I ended up get one for around $650. not a cheap part.

I think I could have got one from Taffy all in with shipping for a lot less, but I had already purchased one.

Pressing it all together is a bit tricky, good to use some one who does them.

I am in the process of buying up parts for a complete re build kit for my 450, just to have. Really love the bike it's to bad it went to the wayside.

Good Luck with your project.

Jeff
 
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