2009 FE570 clutch MC rebuild

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berglsmerg

berglsmerg

Joined
Aug 8, 2009
Messages
1,296
Location
Charters Towers, Australia
First problem, a little bit sweaty.




This fixed it, I could wear this for cologne.





Its done some sand work, sand everywhere!



Any bets on how long the slave lasts?



Threw a 14t front sprocket on while there, the old sprocket has 21 hrs on it! They work like a fuse.



14t should tame the delivery in the bush.
Shortened the wheelbase as a side effect. So many variables to test at once!
 
How was the inner bore? Mine was pitted new and required a warranty replacement within the first month because it leaked within the first few days of ownership.

610's will waste a sprocket quickly, huh
 
You may already know but you should replace both sprockets and the chain. The reason your front sprocket was shot is because your chain is stretched. Replacing only the front sprocket it wear out faster
 
Torque Monster said:
How was the inner bore? Mine was pitted new and required a warranty replacement within the first month because it leaked within the first few days of ownership.

610's will waste a sprocket quickly, huh
Click to expand...

Thats excellent they warranted it, my mc bore was nice and shiny just overworked should fitted a rekluse.

Front sprockets just dont last but Id rather replace the sprocket instead of the.countershaft. Conventional wisdom says to replace everything but at 20 hour intervals it just not economic, I have some mega tough rk chain and a stealth rear sprocket
 
Your bottle shows DOT 4 brake fluid. Your Magura MC cap shows mineral oil only.
 
Nice work
I will probably buy a stealth rear sprocket to because the ironman rear sprocket have very little material around the bolt holes and my kite hub had to be drilled from m8-m10 because the bolts from the rear sprocket came loose once and almost destroyed my hub....
So everytime I replace chainkit I have to drill bigger holes in rear sprocket:rolleyes:
I will go for gearing 15/44 (big tracks/street use)- 14/44 (small tracks) next with 112 links now running a 43 and the wheel is pretty far back in the swingarm and the gearing could be slightly shorter for my liking :)
 
Im happy with the stealth sprocket, Ive abused the **** out of it and it comes back for more.

The dot 4 is mineral based, allegedly the mc kit is designed for dot 4/5 so Im waiting on the slave cyl to start leaking. The bellows kit 0723116 is for mineral oil, the one I installed is for a brake mc.

Could also be the bottle that indicates "gold" making me do wild things, now wheres my firecrackers?
 
berglsmerg said:
Im happy with the stealth sprocket, Ive abused the **** out of it and it comes back for more.

The dot 4 is mineral based, allegedly the mc kit is designed for dot 4/5 so Im waiting on the slave cyl to start leaking. The bellows kit 0723116 is for mineral oil, the one I installed is for a brake mc.

Could also be the bottle that indicates "gold" making me do wild things, now wheres my firecrackers?
Click to expand...

The dot4 is not glycol-ether based?
I thought that KTM/Husa wanted us to use mineral oil for the clutch in the case that when it leaks into the crankcase, it is no big deal.

Either way, nice work.
 
Dang, think you're right, Im sure the bottle said mineral. Intergoogle says polyglycol. Will look at the bottle before swigging on the other bottle.
 
Gday Bergsmlerg

i use BP bartran HV15 for suspension fluid and clutches

its costs me $150 for 20L from a depot

any 2.5wt fork oil is also good for maguras or just baby oil from a chemist .. ask for baby extra with codiene :D
 
I also use 5wt fork oil in the clutch.

I read a test the other day that the magura fluid is very low boiling point, compared to other mineral oil based fluids. The Magura was 120c boil where the others were 260c and 280c.

While reading up on all that, I stumbled on a key statement. While DOT fluid absorbs water, when it does, the boiling point is midly degraded.
Mineral oil does not absorb water, but if water does it in the system by whatever method, condensate/boil/etc, the fluid likely then has a boiling point of water since the two don't mix.
 
G'day Thats something that was nagging at me, the hydroscopic nature of glycol, at least performance wont be affected. If I boil this dot 4 I think think I may be in trouble anyway? I will flush the system every 6 months or even shorter intervals if doing lots of river riding.

The castrol label said that the dot 4 can be used in systems meant for mineral oil, not mineral based, duh, too many beers before posting.:eek:
 
Last edited:
Update, 6 hours of riding over the weekend and all is still well, now to let it stand for 7 days and see what happens.
 

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