32mm exhaust valve ordering info

Problem after problem when I order parts for my 2001 fx650

I rushed all over the country to gather all the maintenance parts I needed, then when I start the job I realize that my head has been modded and it requires 32mm exhaust valves.

Yes, I should have striped the head and measured before buying the valves, but I have been wrenching on jap bikes for years and have never found 1 single part that I cannot just buy a direct replacement. Only on the husa!

Does anybody know the kibblewhites or del west part number for the modified valve size?
Thanks!

I guess I will be back on the RMZ for another weekend! Grrrrr!

kibblewhite are really quick to answer any questions, give them a call see if they can cut you a polaris predator valve shorter you want 98mm long right?

I don't know about delwest but ask them as well, the info you need should be here just not the right length, ask them about which valve guide material they need for their valves as well.

these are the closest they have, the one from the polaris predator is just too long

KTM 525 97mm (long same as new bergs)

KPMI No. ; Type Head ; Dia Stem ; Dia. Tulip ; OL ; Remarks


96-96004 IN 35.00mm / 1.378” 0.2350” 20º 3.815” Standard
96-96005 IN 36.00mm / 1.417” 0.2350” 20º 3.815” Oversize

96-96007 EX 30.00mm / 1.181” 0.2345” 24º 3.815” Standard
96-96008 EX 31.00mm / 1.220” 0.2345” 24º 3.815” Oversize


generic blank

93-93016B Exhaust 34.00mm / 1.338” 0.2347” 29º 5.000”


Polaris /ktm predator outlaw

82-82055 EX 32.00mm / 1.260” 0.2345” 20º 4.035” Standard

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I have 37/32mm valves 97mm long in my 02 head, they look like kibblewhites. Dale lineaweaver did the work, it looks like he cut the seats deeper into the head to get the right valve stem height with the 97mm valves.

i sell them

Taffy

just checked this morning

the 31mm 525 RFS kibblewhite OS valve fits straight in my 02 head ("32"mm seats), stem height is +0.90mm over the 32mm 97mm long valve so a bonus

contact patch is slightly further out than ideal but not a problem, re cutting the seat would make it a 100%

they are about $40 each on ebay inc shipping to canada

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_sac...op=15&_clu=2&_fcid=1&_localstpos&_stpos&gbr=1

madsledhear

don't listen yo him. as usual his advice is wrong. how long is he gonna keep this up?

everyone's advice is free but to be wrong as well? Jeez!

LEAVE the valve seat where is is, you don't want the valves shrouded anymore than necessary.

basically, if you put larger valves in a head they need to be LONGER and ready to fit. that way the valves aren't shrouded and the valve spring pre-load can be set correctly.

my valves are just short of 100mm. they have been tested. also the stems are hardened. recently it was reported to me that the Kibblewhite O/S valves wore the stems away because nobody had hardened the tips.

sloppy, very sloppy

regards

Taffy

Thanks for the reply, I've decided in the short term to have 2mm if stellite added to the stem tips, which by the way literally the only thing wrong. My cousin drag races cars and suggested this, he frequently uses this service. However I will definitely be buying spare valves for the future.

As it turns out, I have a Dale Lineaweaver engine with 32mm stainless valves.

sloppy?

never heard of the KW valves wearing stems in thousands of RFS rebuilds so I call BS on that crap.

you haven't seen Dales head work then taff ? the valves on this one are sunk into the head so creating a very nice flow profile, you still think its sloppy? Dales little fingernail knows more about engines than you Taffy LOL.

31mm cut deeper into the head is far from ideal but what do you expect for a $30 part not designed for that application... it will be more shrouded but you just unshroud it with a die grinder we are talking about 0.5mm difference = SFA.

this taffmiesters "32"mm valve (on the left) was so sloppy I had to turn it down to under 31mm to get a seat on it



as it happens this very valve fits on what was a perfect "32"mm seat.
had to cut it slightly lower into the head to reduce the diameter of the seat so i could use the expensive wonky POS.

this was his response .. sloppy? wrong? LOL

Sorry about the problems but I think this is a fuss over nothing.

Try and cut in the one that appears to have lost its face I think you’ll get a 1.5mm broad seat off it fine. If not ask an engineer to cut back till he gets it which I know from previous experience can be done without losing ANY of the diameter let alone 1mm!

In that situation I’d say stop being a tart!

Gerronwirrit fella!

Regards

Taffy

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even my 10 year old son can tell from the picture that there isn't enough steel on that valve to cut a 45 deg seat without reducing the diameter by "a lot"

I don't need to see anyone else's work, sinking valves is the wrong advice.

people need to know what you're like.

Taffy

I know you don't regularly do any actual valve seat cutting work yourself taff so ill explain it to you

when you cut a valve seat down into the head you follow up with a flat facing cutter with a significantly bigger OD than the valve to bring down the material that the valve "sunk" into.

if you do this properly the valve is not "sunk" anymore

again in this case this is only going down by 0.5mm and only if you want to use a $30 part that isn't supposed to fit instead of paying $155 for ONE valve from you

ideally you would use a new 32mm valve the same as lineaweaver used in the first place or the KW 32mm ATV valve with a re machined stem


for someone who pretends to know everything you really are incredibly short sighted

its a simple fact that to fit a 32mm valve i the space that was for a 30mm valve you have to go both deeper and wider and this always restricts the flow. the sidewalls of the combustion chamber (in the head) encroach in and stem the flow.

so 0.5mm won't 'cut it'.

far from not knowing I have now explained twice what is wrong.

you don't know what your doing.

as for the price of my valves:
they are that much because that is what they cost as a billet to be then modified, to have the stems hardened, to pay massive postal charges, to pay import duty and then add UK VAT on top.

the valves you look at are on ebay and a premium has to be charged, anyone outside the EU knows that these aren't the prices they pay when they knock at the 'back door'.

because I don't like you and I wouldn't sell you anything even if you tried I can say comfortably that you wouldn't be aware of how to get cheaper parts from Taffmeisters.

you have again shown that you don't know sweet phuqall about sinking valves.

Taffy

Ferrea WRX exhaust valves 32mm and 33mm can be shortened regrooved and lightened to make a very nice valve, US$56 a pair IIRC for the raw valve, Inlets are cheaper.
Stems seemed to work fine without any hardening of tips.

Post valve porting should work fine as long as the compression is kept up IMO.

Taffy said:

its a simple fact that to fit a 32mm valve i the space that was for a 30mm valve you have to go both deeper and wider and this always restricts the flow.

the sidewalls of the combustion chamber (in the head) encroach in and stem the flow.

so 0.5mm won't 'cut it'.

far from not knowing I have now explained twice what is wrong.

you don't know what your doing.

as for the price of my valves:
they are that much because that is what they cost as a billet to be then modified, to have the stems hardened, to pay massive postal charges, to pay import duty and then add UK VAT on top.

the valves you look at are on ebay and a premium has to be charged, anyone outside the EU knows that these aren't the prices they pay when they knock at the 'back door'.

because I don't like you and I wouldn't sell you anything even if you tried I can say comfortably that you wouldn't be aware of how to get cheaper parts from Taffmeisters.

you have again shown that you don't know sweet phuqall about sinking valves.

Taffy

Click to expand...

no sorry you are missing the point again and being an arrogant fool



i know how to do it if needed and it works perfectly just as we all know LOL

you are right a 31 won't flow like a 32 thats very good you've picked up something

the point you are missing is that if a 31 is all you have it can be made to work

I did not write that it is better than a 32mm valve FFS

again I only had to sink a valve once becasue Taffy sent me a wonky dodgy POS "32" mm valve that ended up way too small .....


so .............................................


Taffy's valves cost 5 times more than others that are known to work perfectly well

the WRX valves spanner mentions are very good, kibblewhite valves are very good..

taffys valves come from an un named source to try and stop people from buying direct

they are un proven comparatively speaking

there are no positive long term test reviews of them on this site




you can keep all your products Lord taffwad I'm not interested in any of them, there is not a single one I can't source elsewhere for a fraction of the price at a higher quality and with better back up well, plus most of the things I need I manufacture in house



..................................

spanner said:

Ferrea WRX exhaust valves 32mm and 33mm can be shortened regrooved and lightened to make a very nice valve, US$56 a pair IIRC for the raw valve, Inlets are cheaper.
Stems seemed to work fine without any hardening of tips.

Post valve porting should work fine as long as the compression is kept up IMO.

Click to expand...

my thoughts exactly

again far from ideal but if you only had a 31mm valve available you would have one valve "sunk" by 0.5mm plus use a thinner head gasket to raise comp and set squish correctly it would be net gain not a los

personally i would use the satellite stem repair the OP mentioned or 32 KW or ferrea valves

not a 31 and I would definitely not spend 5 times what is needed given the quality control I have seen.

YOUR INFO ON SINKING A 32MM VALVE JUST 0.5MM IS WRONG. IT WOULDN'T EVEN BE RIGHT FOR A 31MM VALVE.

I don't have to tell you where I get my valves.

the fact that nobody here has complained is proof that they work.

my valves don't cost 5 times as much you lieing git. you have not taken into account that the valves have to be shortened and then the stem tips hardened. then finally a collet groove cut and all at the wrong end of the valve. a home lathe is no good with the Ferrea valves. with the wasted neck and the material a normal lathe can't cope. the collet grooves are also at the wrong end for machining.

ferrea insist that you will not have a hardened stem tip after about 1-2mm so you carry on Bushie....your usual high standards.

then you have the postage. on this occasion the exhaust valves can be bought at the correct diameter but the inlets can't.

to get these jobs done costs a lot of money. your talking about doing the work at home.

you may have had a poor valve some years ago but that wasn't even from my present manufacturer. as said: I didn't see it. that is not the case today - I now wear glasses.

how come nobody ever backs you up? all my customers out there and yet nobody jumps in to support you?

you can't put a 32mm valve in without extending the length. after working with a serious race team in Norway the valve lengths were confirmed years ago as 'spot on'.

people don't want to hear about bodges and 'do this and that at home'. they want to buy things ready to fit.

your cylinder face porting reduces the compression, as does the fitting of the 32s. all in all the gains are marginal - if any on a 650.

so now you are a sick liar as well.

I notice you call yourself "WAFW racing" (as you presently read this it is in his signature folks). you're right about the WAFW but you've never raced.

I've raced for 33 years and WON.

Taffy

LOL thats the funniest post youve made for a long time


:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::cold:



look what happens when someone disagrees with you

4 pages of crap .... no wonder nobody bothers

Spanner has backed me up here, there used to be many other knowledgeable members who would and have backed me up but they have all left because they can't be bothered with all the megalomania taffcrap.

just last week taffs trying to tell us his untuned 400 had more power than steves 650 and he must be right becasue he won some races LOL

Plus I'm using Lineaweavers head here to back up the bleeding obvious

nobody is agreeing with Taffys idea about vave seat recutting 0.5mm lower being completely and utterly inadequate

you carry on in your own little deluded world lord taffwad im not trying to change your mind LOL

for the benefit of normal people this a cross section from the lineaweaver head I digitized at work

the majority of the cross section is unshrouded and well away from the sides of the head




there is a small 8 degree section (2.2% of the 360deg around the valve) close to the side of the head presenting the worst case scenario, pictured below



exact same head with the seat cut 0.5mm deeper, no other changes



and then after cutting deeper and proper unshrouding as I described above

this section is less turbulent and less restrictive than the original.



apart from small loss in compression i mentioned much earlier the final x section has no disadvantage

this is not an ideal situation but it does work I have done it in order to make it possible to use an otherwise completely useless taffmiester "32mmm" valve

the head is only a lump of metal that is easy to alter without ruining flow rates

as im being refered to as a lying git regarding prices

2 taffy valves on ebay

HUSABERG - 2 X RACE EXHAUST VALVES - 32MM ***MADE FROM ALLOY STEEL*** | eBay

165 British Pound Sterling equals
283.20 US Dollar

Click to expand...

283/2 = 141 each

141/30 = 4.7


4.7 approx 5 times as much as the OP can get a KW valve for

pair of taff valves 283/56 = 5.05 approx 5 times as much as a set of WRX ferrea valves

the stems do not need to be hardened I have 250 hrs on my KWS they are not worn at all.

spanner indicates the same finding with shortened ferrea valves.

dales 32mm valves are 97mm long, there is a reason this is better than the taffy 100mm but i will leave that for another thread when I have pics as proof LOL

just to repeat for the upteenth time - you can't fit a 32mm valve in a head and go down just 0.5mm.

first of all troll, the valves are 271USD /160gbp. get your facts right. (lie one)

secondly, Ferrea only harden the tips and you can see this by looking at the stem - it changes colour.

thirdly, Ferrea insist this is the only was it should be done.


the postage from Ferrea for two valves is a lot, far more than normal. they also insist on putting a customs label on the front so you'll pay import duty. that is if we are comparing....

my 400 is fully tuned so you lied again. (lie two)

by the way, I put the dyno figures up here years ago, as you seem to find everything else perhaps you can find that and then you'll shut up.

and to be clear, I paid to have my inlets flowed and I found a major improvement. the valves I have done have to be cut to MY design. to remind you: the 94 year old described one design as "an aberation"- it flowed way more.

Taffy

On the Ferrea Comp+ valve the change of colour is IMO the is where the hard chrome ends on the stem and the super alloy underneath is exposed about the last 12-15mm of stem. The shortened ends have not been a wear problem so far the whole stem is pretty hard.



Here are the finished shortened, re-grooved, and lightened 38 inlets and 33 exhausts. Run on OS Bronze seats.
http:

The grooves are easy if you know how;)

[IMG]http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q171/span12ner/5b5eb887-0140-42c5-b3a6-61cda1bd3926.jpg

Can we start an argument:furious: on valve guide material, bronze vs the powdered iron? I need to know.

Nice pics spanner,

the iron guides are preferred with ktms because they last longer and don't require honing after install,

yes shortening big head diameter valves and making grooves are both easy jobs, done it a few times on V8 builds ... amazing what you can do with a tiny lathe and some mechanical skill

myth busted on the stem hardening requirement the KW stems are not hardened as much as even a shortened ferrea (i tested the hardness) and wear is not a problem even after 250 hrs in my 700.

the 32mm valve is already in the head, my drawings show what happens when you cut the 32mm seat 0.5mm deeper and unshroud it correctly, there is a gain in flow rate and an increase in head volume of less than 1cc.

now lordus taffwad the delusional regarding the "lies"

http://husaberg.org/mechanical/17478-08-fe650-performance-upgrades-2.html#post149688

Steves heartbreaker dyno output is 43hp

Taffy said:

my 400 gave 46rwbhp 10 years ago and it wasn't even fully tuned and I was on knobblies!

that's poor.

Taffy

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I don't need to go over the maths, taffys valves are wayy overpriced. there are others that are over 400% cheaper 30% lighter and 30% stronger LOL

in mainland americana shipping is negligible or free, cost for 1 kw $30.

evidence of more taffy lies and false advertising here http://husaberg.org/mechanical/17167-cam-chain-weights.html

and here http://husaberg.org/mechanical/14911-valve-spring-broken-4.html full specs here http://husaberg.org/mechanical/10680-all-about-valve-springs-nice-pics.html

if anyone must have expensive alloy valves talk to Glen Woodman GWR on ktm talk, really nice honest fellow.

http://www.aliceracing.com/gwr.php

you won't find a single complaint about Glens attitude, service or products anywhere. when I inquired about some 36mm ferreas (taffy didn't have any .. too expensive he said) Glen told me that at 36mm I should use the Kibblewhites.

KW use both bronze and iron for their guides;

C630 bronze guides

C630 is a blend of copper, nickel, and aluminum. The high copper content gives excellent thermal qualities, the nickel makes the guide tough and wear resistant, and the aluminum brings work hardening characteristics. This bronze alloy allows for tighter clearances than other materials, creating better valve and seat sealing, as well as superior oil control. The expansion qualities of C630 bronze make it especially compatible with aluminum cylinder heads.
Cast iron guides

KPMI R&D has produced a proprietary cast iron blend that thrives in the tough operating conditions of today’s engine. KPMI’s certified cast iron provides excellent wear resistance and a superior guide bore finish that is easy on valve stems.

I have here two bronze OEM inlet guides that I think I will use on the exhaust side, and two OEM iron inlet guides for the inlet side.