hi guys.i bought my first berg a few wks ago.550fe 2007.but the coolant is coming out the weep hole so i bought the o ring,seal,gasket and bearing.i took all apart today and im havin difficulty getting sorted.can any one tel me exactly watvto do.i have the new bearing in the cover an its sitting up about 3mm is this ok?.wat part do i do next cos iv wrecked the blue seal soi ordered another 1.i need pics or something.cheers
WATER PUMP SEALS REPLACEMENT
- Thread starter rocket8
- Start date
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- Tags
- pump replacement seals water
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Scroll to the bottom of the page in the link and download the repair manual. It is pretty much a step by step manual.
hope it helps
http://www.husaberg.com/dealers-service ... ments.html
hope it helps
http://www.husaberg.com/dealers-service ... ments.html
Why would you put it on back to front? Seals work with the fluid to be contained with the inside to the fluid, and the inside is the side with the spring on it and the hollowed out face.
Before you put the cover on, make sure the kickstarter shaft is properly seated, they are a PITA and its likely moved and released if you weren't careful when removing the cover to hold it down, and maybe even if you were.
Before you put the cover on, make sure the kickstarter shaft is properly seated, they are a PITA and its likely moved and released if you weren't careful when removing the cover to hold it down, and maybe even if you were.
Ive heard that it goes on backwards and was lookin it clarified.so the spring faces the inside of the engine.so is this the proper way....
1.fit new bearing with seal in clutch cover
2.slip on new oil seal small o ring.
3.install clutch cover with new gasket
4.insert water seal with spring facing in towards the block.
5.install impeller etc.
Pls correct me if im wrong
1.fit new bearing with seal in clutch cover
2.slip on new oil seal small o ring.
3.install clutch cover with new gasket
4.insert water seal with spring facing in towards the block.
5.install impeller etc.
Pls correct me if im wrong
I'm far from an expert and it's been some time since I did mine but...
have a read of this thread.
viewtopic.php?t=2633
The water pump seal is there to stop the water getting into the oil therefore the seal spring should face out of engine towards the impeller. Fit the seal into the casing first.
From what I have read here and elsewhere nipping the seal when fitting the casing seems to be a common fault of reassembly resulting in water leaking into the oil. Note the tips in the thread.
As Steve points out getting the kickstart right is a big factor when fitting the casing. This is what I had the biggest problem with taking a few goes to get it right.
Good luck
have a read of this thread.
viewtopic.php?t=2633
The water pump seal is there to stop the water getting into the oil therefore the seal spring should face out of engine towards the impeller. Fit the seal into the casing first.
From what I have read here and elsewhere nipping the seal when fitting the casing seems to be a common fault of reassembly resulting in water leaking into the oil. Note the tips in the thread.
As Steve points out getting the kickstart right is a big factor when fitting the casing. This is what I had the biggest problem with taking a few goes to get it right.
Good luck
Sorry for digging this old thread .... but I have got serious problem with assembling my husaberg after changing water pump shaft seals.
Today I tried twice to put it all together and something felt off twice when I was putting cutch cover on...
I am seriously irritaded with this stuff because each time I had to take off the clutch to "reset" kickstarter spring and everything is fine till I try to put the cover
And now I ended up with destroyed clutch securing washer and clutch cover gasket....
Any ideas what may be the reason of my problem with the kickstarter shaft? I quess it fells off and spring gets loose?
Tommorrow I will make third attempt and post some pics of the shaft etc.
Last edited:
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i put the shaft in by itself first without the gear and make sure its correctly located
then install the gear over the top by rotating it clockwise as its pushed on
should look like this, the dog (and shaft) need to be far enough in to be slightly lower than the guide its resting on
if the shaft doesn't move upward while you install the cover it can't come out, maybe enlist some help if its difficult
then install the gear over the top by rotating it clockwise as its pushed on
should look like this, the dog (and shaft) need to be far enough in to be slightly lower than the guide its resting on
if the shaft doesn't move upward while you install the cover it can't come out, maybe enlist some help if its difficult
From the owners document
Kickstart crescent screws and gear selector central screw/post
Vital that these are carefully removed, oil cleaned off and a bonding agent used to keep them in place. They are physically hit from the side which isn't their usual task and are therefore susceptable to loosening. Torq screws are now available at the dealers so a greater tension can be used.
Kickstart fitment
Remove the outer gear and bearing for now so that you have just the splined shaft complete with 'keyhole' ratchet (sledge key) and it's tiny spring fitted. The diagram in the parts manual shows the kickstart spring the wrong way around! So you need the straight pointed end to face away from the bike at your face!
Fit the straight part of the spring into the tiny hole in the kickstart mechanism and then fit the hooked end into the engine case feeding it all in as one. Leave the body of the splined shaft OUTSIDE the crescent and re-fit the kickstart arm at 11 o'clock. Start winding the unit clockwise until the 'keyhole' shaped ratchet piece goes past the 'stop' of the crescent plate. Now, holding the sledge key 'closed', press the unit down into the case using the kickstart lever to 'wobble' it down. Release both the keyhole and the kickstart lever. The unit will turn itself counter-clockwise and rest against the shoulder of the crescent. Now hold the gear down while you remove the kickstart arm and you're ready to fit the bearing and gear on. Because the keyhole is 'closed up', the gear will drop on!
Owners Docs are here
https://web.archive.org/web/20140116233253/http://husaberg.org/wiki/index.php?title=Main_Page
Kickstart crescent screws and gear selector central screw/post
Vital that these are carefully removed, oil cleaned off and a bonding agent used to keep them in place. They are physically hit from the side which isn't their usual task and are therefore susceptable to loosening. Torq screws are now available at the dealers so a greater tension can be used.
Kickstart fitment
Remove the outer gear and bearing for now so that you have just the splined shaft complete with 'keyhole' ratchet (sledge key) and it's tiny spring fitted. The diagram in the parts manual shows the kickstart spring the wrong way around! So you need the straight pointed end to face away from the bike at your face!
Fit the straight part of the spring into the tiny hole in the kickstart mechanism and then fit the hooked end into the engine case feeding it all in as one. Leave the body of the splined shaft OUTSIDE the crescent and re-fit the kickstart arm at 11 o'clock. Start winding the unit clockwise until the 'keyhole' shaped ratchet piece goes past the 'stop' of the crescent plate. Now, holding the sledge key 'closed', press the unit down into the case using the kickstart lever to 'wobble' it down. Release both the keyhole and the kickstart lever. The unit will turn itself counter-clockwise and rest against the shoulder of the crescent. Now hold the gear down while you remove the kickstart arm and you're ready to fit the bearing and gear on. Because the keyhole is 'closed up', the gear will drop on!
Owners Docs are here
https://web.archive.org/web/20140116233253/http://husaberg.org/wiki/index.php?title=Main_Page
Last edited:
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