570 cold start problem

I have a 2011 FE 570 S; Re-mapped, de-smogged, muffler mod, header wrapped, tank taped, fan kit., LED tail light, all with this forums help.

Bike was running and starting great and our relationship was blossoming like a...never mind, wrong forum.

At 13.5 hours I couldn't leave well-enough alone. I have the valves checked (ok – no adjustment), throttle play tightened, changed oil, and I add the 70 deg. sub tank. Button it all up, hit the start button and the battery can barely turn the engine over. I tighten terminals, check connections, add jumper cables and still very slow cranking but it finally does start. It warms up for a few minutes and then restarts easily, cranking as normal. I ride it for 40 min. or so and all seems ok, again, restarting with no problems. I put on the battery tender and get ready for a trail ride the next day.

The next day we unload the bikes and mine barely cranks over again (it’s a 65-70 deg. morning). It cranks slowly for 3 seconds, I stop, retry, it doesn’t turn over but tries. A few more tries then it cranks slowly again but no start. Add jumpers from the pickup with no improvement in cranking. A few more tries, add a little throttle and it spins a little quicker and starts. It idles for a few minutes then restarts with no problem, cranking quickly as normal. And continues to flawlessly restart many times the rest of the day on tight technical single track on a warm day.

Load up happy and head home thinking that the battery is fully charged and my start problems are gone after 3 hours of run time. No so. I try starting again a few hours after the ride (cold) and same slow cranking, not cranking, then cranking again and then starting. Hot starting is not a problem, warm or slightly warm is not a problem. Stone cold is a problem and that is only San Diego cold. It seems like the auto cam decompression is not working when cold. The bike is clearly charging and the battery seems up to the task but I’m not exactly savvy with a multimeter. I had the same problem this morning with the battery tender on all night showing a green light; slow cranking, no cranking, then it starts and easily restarts.

Any ideas? Where should I start? I’ve had the bike for 3 weeks and never put it on a battery tender for the first 13 hours. Strong starts every time.

How does the auto decompression work? Could reducing the throttle play affect it at all? Is there some electronic signal for the auto decompression or is it purely mechanical? I had a respected mechanic check the valves and they did not require any adjustment; could that procedure affect the auto decompression some how?

Almost stranded in San Diego.

This sounds all too familiar. Unfortunately, I don't have an answer for you yet, but I'm actually taking my bike to the dealer tomorrow and will let you know what I find out... Here are a couple links to related threads on here in case you haven't seen them yet... They don't really address the lack of battery power to turn the engine that you are describing and that I am experiencing as well... To top that off, now my kill switch and key won't turn the bike off either, which I think is unrelated... Can't start the bike and when I do, I can't stop it without popping the clutch... Frustrating to say the least on a brand new bike... Good luck and I really hope someone else can post some more useful information.

viewtopic.php?f=7&t=15041&p=126403#p126403

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=13193

Dual Rider,
Did you by chance adjust the throttle play on your bike? I removed the small amount of slop and my cold start problem started. A knowledgable Husaberg rep told me that you can't remove the throttle play on a fuel injected bike because the throttle position sensor becomes unhappy somehow. I've tried to readjust my throttle play to varying amounts of play (5mm to 12mm) but with no success of fast cranking. Just curious if you inadvertantly adjusted your throttle plasy as well. Please let me know.

Dinslage,

Sorry for the delayed response, but I was hoping to wait and have some actual real information to share with you based on feedback from my dealer/mechanic... Unfortunately, the bike has been in the shop for two weeks now and he still can't figure out what is going on with the bike that is causing it to not have enough power to turn over the engine when it is cold... We have already tried a brand new 14 Amp./hr. Shorai battery, jumping the battery connection directly to the starter, looking at the valve adjustments, etc., but no luck yet... I'll let you know if/when we get this figured out... To answer your question, no, I know I didn't purposely adjust my throttle play and I don't believe I accidentally did, but I suppose I can bring it up next time I talk to the dealer... I did raise my bars by 25mm,is there any way that could that have done it???

I hope you are getting better results than I... For now, my garage sits empty and I wait by the phone for any news...

I have a new 2011 FE570S and I'm not having the problem that you describe, but permit me to advance some thoughts. What you are describing is not a battery-power problem. You've eliminated that possibility by using a new battery and jumping it directly to the starter.

Your problem is very likely mechanical friction. It's not that the battery can't supply the starter with enough electrical power to turn the engine over, it's that the starter isn't able to overcome friction to turn the engine fast enough so that it'll catch. There two possibilities were the friction may be found: the starter itself, or in the motor.

The starter is the more likely culpret. A starter with worn or improperly installed bushings will allow the armature to rub against the inside surface of the stator. The resulting friction can be more than the battery and stator can overcome, and the bike or auto will not start. This will quickly draw down the battery, and the problem is often misdiagnosed as a bad battery. Has your mechanic measured how many amps the starter draws when it's trying to turn?

I just got mine back yesterday after a week in the shop with a new starter and battery and the exact same problem. They originally said the the starter was drawing too many amps and replaced it with no improvement. They also re-adjusted the already in spec valves. The shop mechanic is scratching his head and will talk to Husaberg next week. Meanwhile, I brought it home so I can ride this weekend. We put in an 8 cell Ballistic battery with more cranking power which so far has eventually cranked over and started but all agree it isn't right. The good news it's not a wide spread problem; the bad news is its our problem. Let's stay in touch.

I live on Vancouver Island and have the exact same problem as you describe so it's not just your bike. They thought it was the automatic decompressor on the camshaft that was not decompressing the engine when cold but that has been replaced and it still does the same thing. They also replaced the fuel injector nozzle and that made no difference. They have played with the throttle position sensor and think that may have fixed it but they will wait until this Tuesday morning and try starting it from cold again. I had heated grips installed and also PDS handlebar clamps and this may have changed the throttle position sensor. I have been having this problem since it was new in April. I bought this bike to do the continental divide and trans America trails and am afraid to ride it too far even locally. I will let you know what happens when I get it back!

Thank you for all of the posts guys! My bike is still at the shop with no word yet on what is causing my issue, but I actually just forwarded a link to this thread to my mechanic/dealer. Perhaps with enough people having this issue Husaberg will step in and try to provide some help or if nothing else the combination of people we have working on it will figure it out. Please keep me updated and I'll do the same if I get any new information to share...

Berger,
I watched your video of the torque limiter problem; that is not the problem my bike has or at least my bike doesn't sound like that or crank that fast when it does in fact crank over. On the other hand, I'm not really sure what the torque limiter is doing; I can see it slips but why? Does it allow the starter get up to speed then grab and crank the engine? Perhaps my limiter is too tight, which prevents the starter from getting up to speed. Please advise.

my 09 is just slow. it always takes 2 seconds to start and I'm always last/nearly off the line. But it also always starts.

easily my biggest 'woe' is the air filter not sitting flush to the base. I think it's down and then I find it's caught up in about 4 places.

regards

Taffy

Mine doesn't act like the bike in the video either. When the bike is cold and I hit my starter, it won't even turn over at all, it just clicks (and when I say clicks, I mean just one click and then nothing...) and sounds very similar to just having a very weak battery (even though we put a brand new very strong battery in it with a full charge). I let go of the button and try it again and get the same thing. Try it a 3rd time and get the same thing... Try it a 4th time and it turns over and tries to start. Try it a 5th time and it turns over and tries to start. Try it a 6th time and it eventually starts assuming the battery hasn't died by now...

One other thing you can check is the ground side of the starter/ battery circuit. Make sure ground straps are clean & tight. i have seen loose grounds cause this on autos.

Does adjusting the throttle freeplay actually affect the tps?

Jake390 said:

Does adjusting the throttle freeplay actually affect the tps?

Click to expand...

It shouldn't. Or atleast on my old gsxr it didn't. But the TPS was sometimes out of whack on it, and had to adjust it.
Throttle should have 3-5mm free play so TPS is at 0%. When the butterfly cracks open even slight amount TPS is noticing it.

Cold Start Update.

This last Wednesday a friend and I trailer out to the desert for some riding. The 570 engine is cold but it is 85 degrees out and it starts first try; cranked a little slow but acceptable. She runs and starts great the rest of the day with ride time of about 3 or 4 hours and we head home. Later that evening in the garage, about 65 degrees, engine cold again; no start. I push the starter about 8 times with no cranking, then a small crank movement, then slow cranking and starting -- the same problem as before. 20 degrees makes a difference, evidently.

I'm still waiting for the dealer to come up with a plan and they are waiting for some direction from Husaberg. And I always carry a tow strap now so I can start my new high-end dirt bike anywhere and at any temperture. Arrggh.

Thanks for the update dinslage. Is there any update on your bike evasit? My bike remains in the shop (3 weeks now...) and we still don't know what to do. He said someone at Husaberg is supposed to call him back today that was out of town and something about Austria, but I don't know if he is based in Austria or he was just there on business... From what I'm told we have now tried the following: new battery, new starter, new starter relay, direct juming of the battery to the starter to eliminate any potenial wiring problems between the two, valve inpsection (he said they looked perfect and the bike runs perfect once we get it running...). I mentioned the throttle position sensor and torque limiter items from earlier posts, but he claims that neither of these would be causing this. I also mentioned making sure the battery was grounded well and he said it was and that there is no paint on the bike to interfere... The only thing left to try and that my dealer can think of is to tighten the valves a bit more. Does this make sense to do? Thanks again for all the information everyone, this is getting to be very frustrating!

My dealer phoned me today and says he's solved our problem. I pick the bike up tomorrow and will find out the details as he didn't have time to go in to them over the phone. He was very happy and positive that he's fixed it. I will keep you all posted. Lets keep our fingers crossed!!http://www.husaberg.org/forum/posti...t=15263&sid=9d10055799e68ee8d185bb8db6c623ff#

EXCELLENT NEWS! The solution will be both useful and interesting, I am sure. I'm glad you get ride your Husaberg this weekend.

I have just picked up my bike from Kenco , my dealer on Vancouver island. It started cold on the third short stab on the button ( I didn't have to use the cold start button 10's C. today. The bike turned over much faster than it used to and runs great. After a lot of work they traced it down to a faulty cam shaft decompressor. Yes they had replaced that before but we figure there must have been a run of faulty cams. They also replaced the spark plug cap as they tend to develop cracks. I have started it up again after I got it home. Again 3 short stabs at the button and it fired right up. It turns over faster now like it's supposed to. There used to be some noise from the top end that you could hear when off the throttle going level or down hill and that is cleared up too. The bike is finally running like it is worth the money. I'm very happy and will stay that way if the bike continues running this well. I would like to thank Ken/Kenco and the Mechanics at Kenco for persevering and solving our problem. Hope this helps all the others with similar problems.