Engine Backfires and quits

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Joined
Nov 8, 2010
Messages
2
I have a 2010 FE570 with about 30 hours. The bike, after it has been run for a while, starts to backfire and eventually quits. It will turn over but won't start until it has cooled down. When it does start it runs completely normal. The problem is getting worse as time goes on. What should I replace or check?
 
Do the obvious stuff:
Check Battery Terminals are tight.
Change Spark Plug
Check you have not oiled the Air filter too much.
Check not too much oil in the engine


Then check this post:
viewtopic.php?f=7&t=12991
Check the fuel tank for gunk
Long shot but check valves
Then a trip to the dealer
 
sounds just like mine when its beginning to overheat. does not like to sit and idle.
 
Hello bcbush
My 2010 450 had similar symptoms and I have just found out the fuel pump is faulty. Still under warranty which is good because a new one is around $650 aussie. It is easy to check the pressure, which should be around 3 - 3.5 bar but hard to access a gauge. My pressure was 1 bar and getting worse quickly.
Regards mulga1
 
I to have a 570 Whoo's your daddy motorcycle, it runs great for 35/40 min, get's hot, quits


i have checked almost everything on this bike, wiring is good


who has had luck with why the husadaddy shuts down, needs 10 min to collect it's thoughts and then starts,,,quits again 10/15 min later?????
 
PROBLEM - bike quits


FAN WORKS
TEMP SWITCH WORKS
is it fuel? is it vapor lock, is it heat, water pump into the engine

2010 570, 50 hours, well taken care of, fan, wrapped akrapovic pipe,


anyone put insulated foil tape under tank to keep heat away from fuel pump???


right side tank turns different color, frame gets really hot, frame touches tank
 
bcbush said:
I have a 2010 FE570 with about 30 hours. The bike, after it has been run for a while, starts to backfire and eventually quits. It will turn over but won't start until it has cooled down. When it does start it runs completely normal. The problem is getting worse as time goes on. What should I replace or check?

bcbush, this is 2010570femspphxcos, i'm having the same problem, BUT, IT ONLY BACKFIRED ON ME ONCE, NO MORE BACKFIRING, JUST GET'S HOT AND QUITS

not sure why???

anyone know before i bring it to a dealership and pay???
 
I'm trying to track down a similar problem on my '10 570 with 8 hours. Check out this thread about Fuel pump heat and also some tidbits towards the end of the thread about electrical connections at the injector:

viewtopic.php?f=7&t=14479
 
I ran into a similar issue, and when I checked the plug, it was not gapped from the factory as per the recommended specs. the gap was so narrow that I can only conclude that once it became heat-soaked the gap closed off and shorted, causing the bike to die until the plug cooled off. I re-gapped to recommended spec and have never had another issue in the last 32 hours... Except for a tankful of watery, sludgey fuel, but that's another story...
 
Hi,

My -09 450 FE with less than 60 hours and around 1500km started today (in around 19 celcius temp, very humid with light rain, cold start from dry garage) all of a sudden with lower than normal idle and responded to throttle a bit poorly, but then in less than a minute started behaving about normally. After around 3-4km of easy driving in traffic the engine dies in red lights. Starts but needs a bit extra throttle to keep from stalling. During next 2km the rpm's and engine pull begin to vary more and more if throttle is held constant, and backfiring increases, and engine has difficulties in raising rpms and does not pull normally i.e. lacks torque, sputters especially in lower revs. Time to head back home. Engine dies twice in lights, requiring all the time more and more throttle to get the rpms up. After getting the rpms a bit up from near-idle revs the need for extra throttle reduces. At home removing freshly washed and oiled air filter does not have any effect. With air filter removed the valve cover breather hose puts out occasional slight but hardly visible puff. Cooling the engine slightly does not have any effect. During every backfire there is a visible smoke puff from exhaust. The backfiring does not occur in series, only a bang at a time.

So obviously the fuel air mixture is ***ked up and it seems it is also getting less fuel than it should. With bigger rpms the engine response is better and sputtering is reduced but pull is not normal on any revs except a few occasional split second moments which made driving back home quite interesting in some corners:)

The bike has a bit more oil than it should. However it worked fine earlier after last oil change. Spark plug hasn't been checked yet, what's the correct gap?

Had a slight feeling on mx track during my earlier drive almost two weeks ago that it may have lacked some pull, but this is only a gut feeling since there is a plenty of power for my skills on mx track at least, I hardly get to do serious full throttle openings:) Bought the bike as used last January with 30hrs on it, on my test drive on icy parking lot with studded tires it lifted the front wheel easily on 3rd gear without any pulling on handlebars.

EDIT 23.6.2011: Spark plug looks good, haven't yet test with an another plug. Exhaust valves are out-of-spec (right side 0.08 goes 0.10 doesn't, left side 0.10 goes 0.13 doesn't), also intake right side valve is out (0.05 goes 0.08 doesn't), left side 0.1 is within spec. I suppose this is not the main cause. Going to have a look at fuel injector next if there is anything, then fuel tank and pump.

EDIT 26.6.2011: Took the fuel injector off the fuel rail and throttle body. No white goo, dirt or anything suspicious looking inside any of the fuel rail's three main components. Does anyone know how to test the injector's functionality? Can it be plugged into any sort of KTM or Husa tester or into any generic Keihin EFI tester if such exist?
 
tumpelo said:
Hi,

My -09 450 FE with less than 60 hours and around 1500km started today (in around 19 celcius temp, very humid with light rain, cold start from dry garage) all of a sudden with lower than normal idle and responded to throttle a bit poorly, but then in less than a minute started behaving about normally. After around 3-4km of easy driving in traffic the engine dies in red lights. Starts but needs a bit extra throttle to keep from stalling. During next 2km the rpm's and engine pull begin to vary more and more if throttle is held constant, and backfiring increases, and engine has difficulties in raising rpms and does not pull normally i.e. lacks torque, sputters especially in lower revs. Time to head back home. Engine dies twice in lights, requiring all the time more and more throttle to get the rpms up. After getting the rpms a bit up from near-idle revs the need for extra throttle reduces. At home removing freshly washed and oiled air filter does not have any effect. With air filter removed the valve cover breather hose puts out occasional slight but hardly visible puff. Cooling the engine slightly does not have any effect. During every backfire there is a visible smoke puff from exhaust. The backfiring does not occur in series, only a bang at a time.

So obviously the fuel air mixture is ***ked up and it seems it is also getting less fuel than it should. With bigger rpms the engine response is better and sputtering is reduced but pull is not normal on any revs except a few occasional split second moments which made driving back home quite interesting in some corners:)

The bike has a bit more oil than it should. However it worked fine earlier after last oil change. Spark plug hasn't been checked yet, what's the correct gap?

Had a slight feeling on mx track during my earlier drive almost two weeks ago that it may have lacked some pull, but this is only a gut feeling since there is a plenty of power for my skills on mx track at least, I hardly get to do serious full throttle openings:) Bought the bike as used last January with 30hrs on it, on my test drive on icy parking lot with studded tires it lifted the front wheel easily on 3rd gear without any pulling on handlebars.

EDIT 23.6.2011: Spark plug looks good, haven't yet test with an another plug. Exhaust valves are out-of-spec (right side 0.08 goes 0.10 doesn't, left side 0.10 goes 0.13 doesn't), also intake right side valve is out (0.05 goes 0.08 doesn't), left side 0.1 is within spec. I suppose this is not the main cause. Going to have a look at fuel injector next if there is anything, then fuel tank and pump.

EDIT 26.6.2011: Took the fuel injector off the fuel rail and throttle body. No white goo, dirt or anything suspicious looking inside any of the fuel rail's three main components. Does anyone know how to test the injector's functionality? Can it be plugged into any sort of KTM or Husa tester or into any generic Keihin EFI tester if such exist?


Check out these threads for my fix with fuel problems similar to what you describe:
viewforum.php?f=7
viewtopic.php?f=7&t=14479&start=60
 
Now with new fuel injector, new spark plug and with valves adjusted to upper limits the engine is working really well! All the problems and symptoms that I wrote about earlier are gone! No popping in any situation, smooth pull from idle without hesitation, engine doesn't die on its own, nothing but good strong response.
The injector came with but without asking with a new inline fuel filter that goes inside fuel rail assembly's fuel hose end. I suppose the factory must have been alerted by all these problems if they've started to deliver injectors with fuel filters and have introduced the fuel filter to pre-2009 models, both Husa and KTM. Wouldn't it be fair if the spare injector was priced more reasonably.. or given for free or at production cost.
 

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