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I have a used electrex stator for sale, very good condition hardly used.
Reasonable price.

PM for info
 
In a way I recommend the electrex. they fail quickly, just as quick as the OEM SEM perhaps did back in 2003 and they do knock out the coils as has been said so many times but they are very cheap and you can get through two to my SEM one.

I don't know how much their Zenor Diode costs (to balance the cost equation here) so perhaps that ought to be added in.

I've been here 15 years and I don't recall anyone else here saying that they have used/did use/ have seen one used a flashing timing light? a 'strobe light'?

electrex don't even give you a timing mark and for the first 5 years owners were fitting them and putting them in the middle of their adjustment slot.

it was only when I got hold of one that I found out that they have to be ******** as far as is possible. but electrex NEVER said where it had to go? what kind of company is that????

more recently, and no I DON'T KNOW WHY, I have found the correct timing to be 1mm from the fully ******** point of the adjustment.

FAILURE
the reason all these stators fail is damp. they all get wet. and that I'm afraid is up to the owners. I have always advocated siliconing up the cover to the engine, the top of the wiring tube, the tube into the rubber bung, the bung in the cover.

but even that isn't enough.....

if when you change the oil you split the wiring tube you must replace it strraight away!!!! and that is the owner again isn't it!

lastly, I controversially drilled at the back of the crankcase years ago and was always delighted with the results. logic said that water would go up and in but I felt it worked as long as everything else was done? I also vasoline'd the stator you waterprooof it a little.

what was everyone else's opinion on the above two "controversial" ideas? Vaso and drilling a hole?

regards

Taffy
 
Hi

It looks cool, but also very similar to electrex, can you ask if it's the same ?

Also how they advice how to set up timing, since it doesn't have the timing mark ?

Is there are candidate for a review ?

:cool:
ZAGA
 
I contacted the company regarding this stator. They replied saying that it was one Of their products. I also asked if it had been field tested with a sems ignition ... To which I received no response. I agree that it looks like an electrex unit. Perhaps they are re reselling. They do manufacture stators in house. I suppose the only real way to know is to order on end compare it and send it back if it is.
I personally don't need one at this point as I think I have 1 fresh rewind and 3 good stators in my workshop.
 
Last edited:
In a way I recommend the electrex. they fail quickly, just as quick as the OEM SEM perhaps did back in 2003 and they do knock out the coils as has been said so many times but they are very cheap and you can get through two to my SEM one.

I don't know how much their Zenor Diode costs (to balance the cost equation here) so perhaps that ought to be added in.

I've been here 15 years and I don't recall anyone else here saying that they have used/did use/ have seen one used a flashing timing light? a 'strobe light'?

electrex don't even give you a timing mark and for the first 5 years owners were fitting them and putting them in the middle of their adjustment slot.

it was only when I got hold of one that I found out that they have to be ******** as far as is possible. but electrex NEVER said where it had to go? what kind of company is that????

more recently, and no I DON'T KNOW WHY, I have found the correct timing to be 1mm from the fully ******** point of the adjustment.

FAILURE
the reason all these stators fail is damp. they all get wet. and that I'm afraid is up to the owners. I have always advocated siliconing up the cover to the engine, the top of the wiring tube, the tube into the rubber bung, the bung in the cover.

but even that isn't enough.....

if when you change the oil you split the wiring tube you must replace it strraight away!!!! and that is the owner again isn't it!

lastly, I controversially drilled at the back of the crankcase years ago and was always delighted with the results. logic said that water would go up and in but I felt it worked as long as everything else was done? I also vasoline'd the stator you waterprooof it a little.

what was everyone else's opinion on the above two "controversial" ideas? Vaso and drilling a hole?

regards

Taffy

I can attest to dampness probably being one of if not the main reason for a SEM stator failure. On my 01 the stator went out within a few years. I remember starting it one time and bubbles started coming out of the stator cavity. I took the cover off and it was full of water. From washing it no doubt because I only ride in the desert. I think that when water gets inside the SEM stator plastic cover it wrecks havoc on it. So yeah, keep that bugger dry at all costs.
 
I suppose I was the first sucker here.

I saw them on ebay and went to their web site. SEM Direct Replacement Stator Husaberg 1999-2003, Husvarna & Vertimati (some models) European Models - English | RMSTATOR.COM

They give the resistance values for the stator.
Wire to wire resistance:
Alternator: = 0.4ohms +/-20%
Pickup: = 30ohms =+/-20%
Source: 1295ohms =+/-20%

Now that 1295 ohm figure concerned me. I contacted them and told them that the OEM needs to be ~3000 ohm. Is their's going to work? They replied with a standard "with our improved engineering, blah blah blah, it will work great.

They had a 15% off deal for Canada's Boxing day so I decided to buy one. I thought I would then have the SEM rewound, and have a good spare.

When it arrived the box says "Made in China" right on it. I know most everything is made in China now, I guess I just thought that maybe a stator company would wind their own.

First off I noticed that there are many more arms, or bobbins on their stator. On the charge side it has 6 instead of the 4 on the SEM, and nearly 2 to 1 for the alternator side.

As Taffy said there is no timing mark on it. I lined it up with the old one and got a close idea where it should be. I installed it, and tried to fire it up. On the starter, it would pop and backfire but not start. Kicking it, it would kickback violently and about launch me. I did get it to start, but VERY rough running, lots of backfiring. Couldn't rev it 1/4 throttle without it backfiring so bad it would start to die. I tried the full range of adjustment and it never got any better.

I have a timing light, but it is not adjustable, so finding the mark in the little window didn't work. It was way off.

It damaged my engine from all the kickbacks. The sprague clutch went from working great, to now just spinning most of the time. Will have to pull the clover one more time now!

I put the SEM back in it, and it fired right up and just purrs. No backfiring, no kickbacks, it just starts right up and runs smooth.

RMstator had me return it to them to check out, but I am doubtful it is going to work. When I get it back I will give it one chance. If I get the same backfiring monster, it is going back for a refund.

I asked them about the Electrex, which looks identical to theirs. (Both made in the same shop in China I am sure) Electrex shows a 98 and earlier stator with roughly the same resistance as this one. But Electrex does have one for 99-2003 that looks identical, but seems to have the right resistance. They had no comment on that.

I'll reply again once I get it back and see how it all shakes out.
 
As Taffy said there is no timing mark on it. I lined it up with the old one and got a close idea where it should be.

really?

so did you try it how I said? :giggle::giggle:

Taffy
 
I suppose I was the first sucker here.

I saw them on ebay and went to their web site. SEM Direct Replacement Stator Husaberg 1999-2003, Husvarna & Vertimati (some models) European Models - English | RMSTATOR.COM

They give the resistance values for the stator.
Wire to wire resistance:
Alternator: = 0.4ohms +/-20%
Pickup: = 30ohms =+/-20%
Source: 1295ohms =+/-20%

Now that 1295 ohm figure concerned me. I contacted them and told them that the OEM needs to be ~3000 ohm. Is their's going to work? They replied with a standard "with our improved engineering, blah blah blah, it will work great.

They had a 15% off deal for Canada's Boxing day so I decided to buy one. I thought I would then have the SEM rewound, and have a good spare.

When it arrived the box says "Made in China" right on it. I know most everything is made in China now, I guess I just thought that maybe a stator company would wind their own.

First off I noticed that there are many more arms, or bobbins on their stator. On the charge side it has 6 instead of the 4 on the SEM, and nearly 2 to 1 for the alternator side.

As Taffy said there is no timing mark on it. I lined it up with the old one and got a close idea where it should be. I installed it, and tried to fire it up. On the starter, it would pop and backfire but not start. Kicking it, it would kickback violently and about launch me. I did get it to start, but VERY rough running, lots of backfiring. Couldn't rev it 1/4 throttle without it backfiring so bad it would start to die. I tried the full range of adjustment and it never got any better.

I have a timing light, but it is not adjustable, so finding the mark in the little window didn't work. It was way off.

It damaged my engine from all the kickbacks. The sprague clutch went from working great, to now just spinning most of the time. Will have to pull the clover one more time now!

I put the SEM back in it, and it fired right up and just purrs. No backfiring, no kickbacks, it just starts right up and runs smooth.

RMstator had me return it to them to check out, but I am doubtful it is going to work. When I get it back I will give it one chance. If I get the same backfiring monster, it is going back for a refund.

I asked them about the Electrex, which looks identical to theirs. (Both made in the same shop in China I am sure) Electrex shows a 98 and earlier stator with roughly the same resistance as this one. But Electrex does have one for 99-2003 that looks identical, but seems to have the right resistance. They had no comment on that.

I'll reply again once I get it back and see how it all shakes out.



Yes even those figures don't even come close to the early Husaberg SEM readings.

These companies that sell this pattern crap just haven't got a clue what it's all about, to them it's just a set of copper windings, will be interesting to see what they come back with.

But if you require any info regarding this SEM system as is to anybody else, just drop me a line, as always all my info is for free.
[email protected]

Regards

Sparks.
 
I haven't got very far with them. Sent a couple of emails,they dodged questions and didn't really give any definitive answers. They said the unit required one of their timing plates but they didn't have one for the husaberg.
Disappointed in this Canadian company!
 
I haven't got very far with them. Sent a couple of emails,they dodged questions and didn't really give any definitive answers. They said the unit required one of their timing plates but they didn't have one for the husaberg.
Disappointed in this Canadian company!


Doesn't really fill you with confidence does it, what's with a timing plate, think they threw that in as bit of a red herring.

Whats's their email address maybe I'll shoot them an email.

Regards

Sparks.
 
he's been told where to place the ignition stator steve. not sure a plate could help?

Taffy
 
Hey guys.

So am I correct in assuming that the HPI and Electrex are just as ****** as the SEM?
Does anyone have and HPI or Electrex stator that actually works, and lasts longer than a year? And do the HPI and Electrex units damage the ignition module?

I'm at a loss as to what to do... I have a 2002 FX470, which is still running on the OEM SEM stator, she starts easy and runs fine, but every now and then she just dies for 2 to 3 seconds and then comes back to life and runs fine again as if nothing ever happened. This doesn't happen very consistently, some days more and some days less.

Now I've got another guys 2001 FE650, he recently had an HPI stator fitted and his bike does the same thing. So could I assume that its his ignition module acting up, since the stator is only 2 months old?
And since my 470 has the same symptom, is it also my ignition module and not my stator that's the problem? BTW, the resistances on my stator still give the same reading as the manual spec.

I don't want to buy HPI/Electrex or any other ***** if its just going to give me issues anyway, and I especially wouldn't want to recommend it to someone else if it's going to give them issues.

So short of taking the plunge and converting to Kokusan, what or who has the proper replacement or rewinds stators and ignition modules that last?

From what I've seen here and there on these threads, Sparks' seem to be where it's at.
Who else does them?

It doesn't help that our currency is absolutely worthless...

I'm thinking of going over to points and condensor ingintions... :)
 
Hey guys.

So am I correct in assuming that the HPI and Electrex are just as ****** as the SEM?
Does anyone have and HPI or Electrex stator that actually works, and lasts longer than a year? And do the HPI and Electrex units damage the ignition module?

I'm at a loss as to what to do... I have a 2002 FX470, which is still running on the OEM SEM stator, she starts easy and runs fine, but every now and then she just dies for 2 to 3 seconds and then comes back to life and runs fine again as if nothing ever happened. This doesn't happen very consistently, some days more and some days less.

Now I've got another guys 2001 FE650, he recently had an HPI stator fitted and his bike does the same thing. So could I assume that its his ignition module acting up, since the stator is only 2 months old?
And since my 470 has the same symptom, is it also my ignition module and not my stator that's the problem? BTW, the resistances on my stator still give the same reading as the manual spec.

I don't want to buy HPI/Electrex or any other ***** if its just going to give me issues anyway, and I especially wouldn't want to recommend it to someone else if it's going to give them issues.

So short of taking the plunge and converting to Kokusan, what or who has the proper replacement or rewinds stators and ignition modules that last?

From what I've seen here and there on these threads, Sparks' seem to be where it's at.
Who else does them?

It doesn't help that our currency is absolutely worthless...

I'm thinking of going over to points and condensor ingintions... :)


Plus I'm always on the other end of the line if you require useful information, thanks for the mail.

Regards

Sparks.
 
Your reimbursement request has been transferred to our accounting department.

This is the reply I got yesterday from RMStator:

Your reimbursement request has been transferred to our accounting department.

No explanation, no detail at all.
Was the Stator bad? I guess it is a win that I get a refund, but would have been better to have a stator. I asked for more detail, but haven't gotten a response yet.

Taffy, I tried the full range of adjustment and it didn't change the running at all. My last ditch effort was to not put the bolts in the cover, and I could rotate the whole unit that way. I rotated the cover over an inch each way and still didn't see any improvement.

Greg
 
Hi Greg,

At least you got reply, I didn't even get that.

Would be interesting to get hold of one of these stators just to run it on the test rig to see exactly what is happening.

So where are you now Greg regarding a stator.

Regards

Steve.
 
WArdogG, i have an Electrex stator in my 02 650, it's run for the last 7-8 years or so with no problems.
If i'd done a bit more homework before i'd got it i'd have seen the links to Sparks stators and got one of those.

Carl, owner of the only good Electrex ;)
 

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