FE450 battery removal

Dieselfool · Dec 22, 2009

Just finishing winterizing my bike and I'm having a bit of a time getting the battery out. Have the rubber carb boot off, the electrial doo-hickey over the battery out of the way, yet when I try to slide the battery up, it hits the frame. Am I missing something here? I can usually figure this kinda stuff out, but it's getting to cold to be dickin around (unheated garage) so I thought I'd take the easy way and ask you guys. What say you?

nsman · Dec 22, 2009

Since you are taking it out the R.H. side, remove the starter motor(2 bolts and it slides out)and the starter motor bracket and the battery box will come out...it is spigited on to the bracket.
many prefer to lift the bike and undo the top susp mount and let the shock move back allowing room for the battery box to exit from the L.H side.
The are a couple bolts holding the battery box to the frame that must be removed in either case.

Husahoff · Dec 22, 2009

I find if I remove the back mud guard and undo the top bolt on the rear shock the battery slide out cage and all. Be careful with carb boot the crack easy if it too old.

Dieselfool · Dec 22, 2009

Thanks guys, I'll give it a shot in the Morning.

KustomCandy · Mar 19, 2010

Yep from the rear is the fastest.

Remove all three bolts holding Batt. and Disconnect.
Undo two bolts holding Rear brake cylinder/right side frame cover.. Dont bother cutting the Zip ties, you dont have too.
Undo bolt and remove to Top Shock, Let Swing arm drop down (have bike supported)
Remove rear Inner guard (3 bolts).
Batt and cage comes out easily under frame from the rear. can be done under 15min after a few times.

Dan

aardvark · Jan 8, 2011

After refitting the engine into me 450 yesterday, I tried to put the new battery in. I gave up after two hours!

I'll have to give the "rear entry" method a shot.

GregUK · Jan 8, 2011

Remove rear shock/spring[/*:m:1qo89lcv]
Remove battery + cage rearwards[/*:m:1qo89lcv]

DAMHIK! There wasn't anything wrong with that battery (which is now in my FE570!).

HusaWhat · Jan 9, 2011

Yeah, I tried the side method and could not get it to work due to a little bracket attached to the bottom of the carb. :cuss:
Rather then remove that or attempt to twist the carb, took it out thru the back by removing top shock bolt, mud guard and tipping the shock back then it was a breeze to get out.

Is a good thing as well since my battery box was coming apart so I plug welded it back together and spray painted it dark bronze
(hehe, door closer paint).

I used the aftermarket battery instead of the Yuasa and it seems really strong but time will tell. It costs half as much and is the same YTZ7S AGM rating ($42 delivered).

http://www.batterystuff.com/batteries/motorcycle/sYTZ7S.html

K2Berg · Apr 25, 2015

KustomCandy said:
Yep from the rear is the fastest.

Remove all three bolts holding Batt. and Disconnect.
Undo two bolts holding Rear brake cylinder/right side frame cover.. Dont bother cutting the Zip ties, you dont have too.
Undo bolt and remove to Top Shock, Let Swing arm drop down (have bike supported)
Remove rear Inner guard (3 bolts).
Batt and cage comes out easily under frame from the rear. can be done under 15min after a few times.

Dan

Great job Dan!

You made something potentially very mentally taxing... clear cut, step by step.

Thank you!

KustomCandy · Jun 1, 2015

Late reply. (Not sure why I never got a notification?)
Been a long time since I've been back here. The Old burg was a fun machine. Im in the Husky camp (more cc's to boot) these days. And I'm not convinced I like this Damn EFI stuff!

Not a problem Mate. Yeah I tried the side method at first. It looks the logical route at first. But yeah, Go at it from the rear fella's.

Dan

FE450 battery removal

Help Support Husaberg:

Dieselfool

nsman

Husahoff

Dieselfool

KustomCandy

aardvark

GregUK

HusaWhat

K2Berg

KustomCandy

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