Husaberg Servicing and Maintenance

This information for servicing and preventative maintenance is generally accepted for all Husaberg motorcycles.

Adjusting Tappets

If you’re racing your Husaberg, adjust every second ride. Take the rocker caps off and remove the plug, next, put the bike into second/third gear and then turn it over via rolling it along the workshop. When both sets of tappets are closed (wait for the inlets to close-now stop!): use a rod through the plug hole to try and make sure that the piston is as near to TDC as you can get. Slip back into neutral and put back on the stand. The alternative way is to keep the bike on the stand and remove the ignition cover then turn the engine with a 17mm spanner and again stop the piston at TDC. Undo both tappets together and loosen, then adjust gently you should feel the screwdriver tighten “lightly” with your finger tips and from here back-off 1/8th-of-a-turn (or try joeUSA’s tool) and hold tight whilst tightening the lock nut. Check it again and if the 1/8th-turn is less: actually turn the screwdriver back against the nut slightly as you’re locking.

Adjusting Husaberg Valves Guide
Remove the ignition cover
Adjusting Husaberg Valves Guide
Remove the rocker covers and their gaskets, the oil breather pipe and the sparkplugs
Adjusting Husaberg Valves Guide
Turn the engine using a T-bar to TDC. The T-bar controls the violent urge of the engine to roll with the cam’s flanks. It can only be controlled with strength!
Adjusting Husaberg Valves Guide
Use the special screw to lock the crankshaft. Now you’re definitely at TDC!!!
Adjusting Husaberg Valves Guide
That’s a feeler gauge
Adjusting Husaberg Valves Guide
The stepped 10mm spanner loosens the locknut while the flat-bladed screwdriver sits in the middle
Adjusting Husaberg Valves Guide
Having previously done the inlets; we’re now onto the exhausts and BTW that decomp arm spring should have been disconnected…
Adjusting Husaberg Valves Guide
Time to reverse all the processes: rocker covers on!
Adjusting Husaberg Valves Guide
….and while the plug is out why don’t we gap it as well. 0.7mm – 0.8mm


If racing change every ride or second ride. A good 5/50w synthetic. 900cc for me. Delo 400 is very highly recommended after extensive testing (Lineaweaver).

Oil Filter

Not necessary for 4 or so rides. See Metal Filters in the Better than New section.

Air Filter

As per conditions. In dust, 2 hours and you’d benefit from a back-up. Makes a nasal roar.


Pads last a long time. Performance goes off slightly as they get over 1/2 worn, adjust lever out.


Not too bad. Can reverse front sprocket. 13T eat your front chain guide up though!

Fuel Tank

Difficult to fit. Put grease on all four rubbers.


Replaced. Mine stretched or broke easily. Check regularly.


Air in them. Should bleed Phillips screws immediately after a ride. Wheel free first.

Wheel Bearings

Worn once maybe even twice per season. From alloy to SS spacers? I pull the inner bearing seals out and re-grease.

Cotton Reel Rubbers

Maybe good for two seasons.

Tampon Filter

Metal filings – clean carefully. This is how you check if you have the ‘big C’ in your ‘big H’!

Bleeding Brakes

Difficult. Try a new pad or a plate put in to keep piston back, bleed upwards.

Reed Valve

Excessive blowing if stuck open. Undo 2-screws inside engines LHS. Clean reed and loctite (Simon).

Bleed Clutch

Reverse bleed. From bottom up, using a KTM syringe. Mineral oil only or the seals fail.

Water Temperature

Easy way to check. Fit a McMaster Carr temperature strip.

Husaberg Water Temperature
Easy way to check. Fit a McMaster Carr temp strip.

Head Race Nut

Difficult to get right. As per video: pinch, then 1/4 turn back or to 20 Neuton Meters

Kickstart Lever

Goes dry, wears rapidly. Remove dowel on the bench, clean and repack with grease.

Brake Sliders

Go dry and corrode. Pull rubber sleeves back and copper grease once per year.