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Wheels and Tires Wheels and Tires - Everything from brakes to sprockets

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March 25th, 2008, 11:11 AM   #1
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New wheel hub and new rim...fitting spokes?

I have been asked to put together a new hub with new wheel rim. I have been told he has all the new spokes as well.

Question is...where is best place to start? I have rtenewed countless spokes but never the whole lot! any tips before i end up with an eccentric hub?
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March 25th, 2008, 11:46 AM   #2
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We discussed it a bit here, ... ight=spoke

When assembling a wheel from scratch I lay it out on a bench and do it on the flat initially. You have 4 sets of spokes, pulling left and right and front and back. It can help to look at an assembled wheel for guidance. Install 1 set at a time, the inner first on one side, then the outer on that side and then the opposite side. Just turn each nipple about 2 turns to get the thread started and use thread lube. Work slowly and progressively around and around.

Once its hanging together, put it on the bike and keep working, a little bit at a time and it'll come good.

Be patient, and have fun
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March 25th, 2008, 01:06 PM   #3
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i always looked at a spoked wheel to see the cross pattern (my berg wheels are cross 2) and lay out the wheel without the rim, arranging the spokes as they will end up, taping the crosspoints together, then applying the rim, and then the nipples. using as thick a wrench as you can find, start on one side and tighten about 3 spokes enough that the spoke is well seated in the nipple, then go opposite and do the same, then 90 degrees, etc until its pretty much equally snug all around. eyeball the offset (the rim sits 45mm from the edge of the brake side and 55mm from the sprocket side). assuming you won't have a trueing stand, take the axle and put it in a vice standing up and put the wheel over the top so the wheel sits horizontal. fashion a runout indicator ( i use a thick piece of solidcore solder) and fasten it so that it can be placed next to the rim. start tightening spokes side to side in small increments while checking runout and adjust the high side in and the low side out til you get it as close as you can. keep an eye on the offset and adjust it by loosening one side while equally tightening the other.
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March 25th, 2008, 03:55 PM   #4
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If re-doing an existing wheel, number the spokes on the rim with a felt pen then photo the wheel - makes it hugely easier to match the spoke pattern - else copy an existing wheel you know is the same.

Fit all the spokes in loosely in the correct pattern, ensuring they cross on the correst side of each other. Tighten them bit at a time so they all come up evenly and monitor the protrusion of the spokes into the nipples to make sure they are even. As they start to come up tight you can spin the wheel on its bearings against a pointer on the rim to identify which spokes you tighten such that it pulls the wheel true. If you take your time and only go a bit on each spoke at a time you can get them all tight with the wheel true without having to back any off in the process.

I'd REALLY recommend using anti-sieze or some kind of fat on the spoke threads, but I have seen some do it dry or Loctite them instead.

Two things to note: Husaberg front wheels changed spoke pattern around 1999, but the rear wheel pattern looks to have stayed the same. Search the forums for posts containing "spoke pattern" if you want details.

I recently just discovered that a 2005 KTM525 rear wheel (and I am led to believe it should be the same as the current Husaberg?) has its rear wheel spoked about 5 to 10mm off centre. That is, looking from the rear of the bike, the centre of the rim sits about 10mm closer to the brake disc side spoke holes in the hub to those on the sprocket side. To do this the sprocket side spokes must be longer by a mm or so than the brake disc side ones and the sprocket side spokes have more angle on them.

It should be possible to copy, but may take some more fiddling to get right.
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March 26th, 2008, 12:05 PM   #5
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new rim

I got sick of sending spoked wheels off to be put together and trued so i brought a wheel stand and did them myself
the first one only took me 6 hours as i was very stupid and did not take a pic or mark the point of the first spoke (this is a must if you dont want to throw the rim through the window after putting the wheels together 4 times and its still wrong)
i think knowing what to do is a good start. its not just putting the wheel together its truing the bugger up after.
i found a few videos on the web that helped a fair bit and went from there now it only takes me two hours ????????
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